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I was cleaning my 22yr old MG TF at the weekend I noticed some bubbling on the inside of the rear wheel arches.
At the minute it's not much so fancy having a crack at rubbing it down myself, treating with rust remover and rattle canning over as it's not in a easily visible area.
So what's a good rust convertor to use? This seems to crop up often in my searches...
https://www.jenolite.com/products/rust-converter-aerosol-400ml
That stuff. Worht buying a 'kit' and doing a proper job. If you know about a little bubbling under the arches - there'll be plenty more once you crawl underneath it.
I've had good results with the Bilt Hamber stuff. DeoxC rust converter, Electrox primer (then paint) and then Dynax UC over the top, topped up once a year or so.
My method is to remove as much rust as possible with mechanical means (grinder with 3M strip-it discs, or Dremel and mini flap wheels for smaller intricate areas).
Apply Fertan rust converter to 'kill' any corrosion that has pitted into the steel.
Follow that with Jotun Mastic 87winter grade epoxy.
Remove any arch liners and prepare for mission creep.
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Having researched this quite heavily a few years ago with restorers etc I went with the Bilt Hamber range of products and have been suitably impressed.
+1 for the Bilt Hamber , give them a call for help on which products to use.
Recent group test of rust remover/converters on Auto Express: https://www.autoexpress.co.uk/product-reviews/354923/best-rust-converters-2024
Any rust bubbles that aren’t from damaged paintwork will almost certainly be a hole when the brown stuff is removed.
Had a rust hole in the boot of my car since I’ve owned it (15 years ish) Keep meaning to get it welded up rather than rust killer and silicone sealant every few years. It’s like really shit patina. It always comes back eventually whatever is used and always will until the section of panel is replaced.
Thanks all! 👍
Not so much modern stuff but did anyone ever have good results with the rust conveyor stuff back in the 80s/90s?
My old dad and I had a Spring routine of tarting up whatever Ford we had at that point. 😁
The rust converter stuff was fascinating to watch but never seemed to last long!
A quick once over with a wire wheel on an angle grinder and then Aquasteel to stabilised the metal.
POR15 in either black or silver eat into any remaining rust and provide a really solid undercoat. Do not get POR15 on your skin as it cannot be removed*
Before Aquasteel : 
After Aquasteel : 
My old dad and I had a Spring routine of tarting up whatever Ford we had at that point. 😁
Same, with a Vauxhall, Datsun and Ford the rust always came back. Except stone chips.
My mate had a green Metro and it looked awesomely ratty with the black treated rust left as is. He used to just keep retreating it, rather than trying to cover it up, lasted well really.
I probably sounded quite negative about rust treatment, far from it but I wouldn’t invest too much in the paint if the rust is coming from the inside, you’ll be doing it again fairly soon.
Rust is like an iceberg. You can only see 20% of what's actually there.
Plus, a lot of these converters are brilliant at getting rid of rust and give you a surface to either prime or paint, but do absolutely need to be covered over. Kurust frinstance is a decent rust converter but leaves you with a surface that's pretty much perfect to grow rust on.