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apart from £100 light....to be pushed for my weight
it works better?
yep it works even better than it did b4 ? 😉
£100 better?
or £50 better than an Evans service?
I am also thinking about how to service my FLOAT R...
Hi! 😉
your bike will briefly ride like shit - clunky, mostly bottomed out and hard to control
once the shock's back it should be fine
To answer the question exactly. A Push decal on the air sleeve and a blue o ring on the shock body.
You should feel more midstroke plushness with the high flow piston and a seemless transition from the platform into the high speed range if they reshim for your weight.
If it's a 2011 Boost valve equipped RP23, the difference will be less than the earlier RP23 due to the improvement in Fox's damping. And as Skyline says there will be a smoother transition between the low speed propedal platform and the mid and high speed compression circuit on bigger, faster hits.
For services give me a shout as these will improve the shock considerably as they are supposed to be serviced every 200hours or 12 to 18 months really as the oil 'goes off' or the IFP seal starts leaking a bit.
Edit and you get the Stickers of course!
cheers skyline and loco, but is it gonna make me ride like a PRO? lol
think i'll get something done for the summer.
We're currently working on tuning kits, they maybe ready for summer 😉
These tuning kits, what are they and would it require sending away to be done?
Basically replace the piston and shim stacks, would need to be sent to me for fitment as the shock needs to be fully stripped.
As I said they're being developed at present so they will be a while.
LoCo is an ex mojo employee that knows his stuff. And IIRC is cheaper than TFT.
And after training with Mojo's World Cup mechanics, I trust them implicitly.
It's possible to tune a Fox shock with standard parts to achieve similar results to a Push tune without the more tubulent oil flow a high flow system produces. So the oil degrades at a slower rate for a negligible difference in performance IMHO.
It's a performance tune. Not a race tune. You wouldn't buy a WRC car to go to work, You'd get a EVO or WRX. Far more managable in the real world.
Yes there's various things you can do with standard gubbins, the less belleville shims the better really.
Did a bit of work with Pete before he left Skyline? he's mechanicing for the Athertons this year.
Why may i ask in the dyno tests and the back to back comparison that MBR did last year did the stock RP23 come out on top, when put against a PUSH'd RP23, a Monarch 4.2 et al?
I didn't see that magazine, so don't know was it K9 that did the dyno runs?
Differently might be a better analogy though I would have thought as there are various 'states' of tune for different suspension configurations, so I wonder what they were using as a base setting for the shock specs.
Because a Push tune is pretty much a custom race tune for an individual.
And MBR have several testers riding in real world conditions.
To give the basic answer.
I've got an RP2 pro pedal and have had it previously serviced by MOJO. It seems to only work for me 3 clicks form slowest rebound - any more and the rebound is just too bouncy on anything but fast smooth downhill. Am i reading the above right the shock can be customised for your weight so less on/off through the rebound range?
Yeah it was Luis that did the dynos, but the results were interpreted by the MBR test team into the feature.
If you've had it custom valved, they've bypassed the original rebound circuit and built a speed sensitive stack on the piston they put in.
If you open the needle and valve that used to be used for rebound damping it'll just piss oil through and hardly damp at all.
i.e. it needs to be in that position.
Well put Skyline 😉 I think I know what you mean.re. mbr.
Scamper, the rebound is controlled by a set of shims, a really thin pile of washers effectivly, the amount of oil allowed to flow through these is control by a rod that is connected to the rebound knob as you turn the knob to the faster setting the rod retracts opening a port that allows the oil to bypass the shim stack, so it just runs through a hole with alot less resistance.
There is a taper on the shaft so a point it between clicks 3 and 4 on your shock the taper open enough to allow enough space for the fair amount of oil through being the path of least resitance at click 4.
Adjusting the rebound setup more would make it slower at the slow end of the adjustment but would still do the same thing a the same or a slighlty different point.
The Push tune if I remeber rightly has a couple of shims on the bypass port so less 'on/off ness' in rebound adjustment.
I hope that makes sence it's getting late and I'm still in the workshop bleeding shocks!
I worked with Rowan Smith, Jelly Bean (Paul) and Ade when I went there.
Ironically before I interviewed with the Athertons for the 07 season mechanics job. (is that Polish Pete working with the Athertons? He's a god boy, Rowan was mentoring him when I was there)
They went with Stevie Bell and he a did a sterling job. Gotta give credit where it's due.
I must have been there when you were in Ro and Bean left about the same time I did. Ro now makes amazing bespoke kitchens and furniture locally, yeah Pete's with the Athertons this year.
Bean called in to see me before Xmas. He hasn't changed a bit. He took the piss non stop. Twastard!
Was flying visit tho. One ride, went to see his son, then home to sunny Sweden.
Good to see him though, he's a top man.
Ro told me he was off to build bespoke furniture.
If Carlsberg............etc.
Skyline.. the problem is, some folk on here want the wrc of all shocks! bigger better more!.
Ahhh, yes. The Ken Block experience.
Buy all the kit, practise like hell, post some vids,edit them to make you look good, enter an event and screw it up.
Start again.