[Closed] twin ring - what's the pro's and cons over triple?

pro
Bash gaurd
less faff
dont wince when you take teeth off the big ring
no more chain ring bites in the leg

cons
lower top speed

I miss a big ring on a night ride up here if we do lots of road but apart from that 2 is fine moving up to do 22-34/36 will also help

22/36 here

Big gap between chainrings - you have to use it differently - I use it as a low and high ratio set so go onto the granny ring at the bottom of most climbs and use 1-6 in granny

You only lose the top gear or two compared with a triple.

An in an XC sense:
Pros
Lower Q factor, better chainline, lower weight, less duplicated ratios.

Cons
Smaller range, more expensive, less replacement chainrings.

I found all pro's (maybe a little con)

- Less weight (shorter chain and shorter arm rear mech)
- Chain & jockeys slightly further away from c*ap (see above - shorter arm mechs)
- More clearance for tech riding.
- No bent outer rings.
- chain rarely bounces off (again, less chain flapping around)

The con
- 'lower top speed' as stated above.

Does it really matter ? Ask yourself how often you find yourself [i][b]off road [/i][/b]in the big outer ring and either of the 3 smaller sprockets at the back ?
I checked and you essentially 'lose' 3 higher ratios (for a 44T outer compared to 32T).

Yes I do occasionally get left a little behind on DH [b][u]road[/b][/u] sections, but off road, properly (not fire roads) v rarely.

Obvious disclaimer, those are my own findings that suit me using a 32/22 front & 11-32 rear set up, they of course may not suit you or anyone else caring to comment.

If I were you & not sure, do a couple of rides [b][i]without[/b][/i] using the big ring, then you'll know for sure 🙂

I've never found any significant cons tbh, like steel4real says the few gears you lose are ones I don't have much use for, but I can use the ground clearance. My bashrings have enough scars on them to tell me that...

ermm think I'd want to go 34 or 36 on middle ring

does a normal mech handle this okay? how's the jump (as per TandemJeremy)

probably would only bother when chainrings wear out

36 f/mech fine.

No eye deer why Shimano (and Sram to lesser extent) are continuing as triple ring as the main design. I really think 2 rings (and when proven 10 spd) is the future for normal riders.

Pros
No unnecessary gears (for me)
lighter
more chainring clearance over logs, etc

Cons
Reduced range (not an issue for me)

24/36 and 11-34 for me (26" wheels)

If you do a lot of road riding, it may be an issue for you, otherwise, I found it great - I certainly never spun out.

No need for a bashring unless you already need one.

losing a little top end isn't actually a con if you only ride off road. You'll only lose one and a half gears by binning a 42T ring and using a 36T middle and 11-36 is enough for any DH track I've ever ridden so you're only losing pointless gears (top end and cross over)

use 1-6 in granny

really? don't you find in 22-15/16 the chain's awfully long/poor derraileur tension?

I use the whole (11-28 8speed) cassette in the 36 but only 1-3 in the granny (22) so only ever use it for steep/long/loose climbs.
22-18/19 pretty much = 36-28

I hate chainslap and find it far noticably worse even with a 30T largest sprocket (and chain as short as poss.)

eye deer

[img] [/img]

Likewise, I was quite suprised that 2011 XT is 3x10. Does anyone really need 30 gears?

scruff - Member

"No eye deer why Shimano (and Sram to lesser extent) are continuing as triple ring as the main design. I really think 2 rings (and when proven 10 spd) is the future for normal riders."

Yup. Just that most folks don't know it yet so still think they need 3x9 (or 3x10). To me 3x9 should be much the same as 1x9 now- some people want it and they can sort it out themselves, but for most people 2x9 should be the default on a proper mountain bike.

Also SRAM and Shimano should get their fingers out and make an XT and a 990 11-36 9-speed block, and stop claiming it as a benefit of 10 speed.

No need for a bashring unless you already need one.

for XC I'd agree, if you're smacking a 36T ring off stuff bad riding is prob to blame but there is def a need for an outer guide plate to stop the chain falling off the outside over very rough ground.
mine is a BBG superlight 2mm smaller diameter than the chainring so it can't actually take a hit.

on both my bikes ive now ditched the big ring as i never used it off road, and have fitted a bash ring and kept standard small and "middle" rings. Bash is more for my sake having recently acquired a manky permanent scar on my leg from big ring teeth in an otherwise inocuous off where I got tangled with the bike 😕

GW
"use 1-6 in granny"

really? don't you find in 22-15/16 the chain's awfully long/poor derraileur tension?

Nope - as the chain is shortened to suit the 36 ring - plenty of tension. Doing this gets you away from having to change chain rings often,. Its only for climbing anyway.

def a need for an outer guide plate to stop the chain falling off the outside over very rough ground.

Again not for me with the chain shortened and the front mech set correctly I have only lost the chain very occasionally and a turn of the pedals puts it back on again anyway usually.

As someone else with a chainring scar, I ride with a bash now.

schmiken - Member

An in an XC sense:
Pros
Lower Q factor, better chainline,

How does removing the big ring effect Q factor and chainline!?!?!

TJ - As I said, my chain is as short as possible if I removed a link my mech would rip clean off if using big/big..

post a pic of your bike in 22-15?

We ride very differently and from experience losing the chain out of a corner can ****ing hurt!

Pro - Fashion

Cons - Expense

😉

I hardly ever lost the chain over the top when I was riding without a bash, usually only after really rough stuff that I wasn't pedalling or otherwise maintaining any sort of tension but that's exactly the worst time it could happen. Also it won't pedal back on due to the lack of ramps and pins. So, bashring, no big thing to use one and it's sometimes better than not IMO.

(I did have a superlight like GW but mine was bigger than the chainring, tagged it gently off a rock at kielder while riding with the forks shortened and bent it like a pringle )

I think triples are hangovers from road bikes.

The sort of riding mtb's are now built for in the UK realy does not need a triple.

Lots of my mates are going 2x9, 1x9 or x10 now.

i sliced my leg open really badly when using a triple on a pitch. Never again. All the other con's are insignificant compared to riding with a big spinning razor blade between your legs

gw - I only use the granny ring when climbing. So I would not be powering out of corners.

I just checked - it has plenty of tension. I have never had the chain ride off in granny 6 - the chainline is such that it is really unlikely as the cahin would tend to go off the side of the granny towards the big ring.

This is in granny / 6th

[img][url= http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5122/5349494910_d8d4d378fd.jp g" target="_blank">http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5122/5349494910_d8d4d378fd.jp g"/> [/img][/url] [url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/25846484@N04/5349494910/ ]new year[/url] [/img]

11-34 cassette and 22/36/bash. Used the same front mech no problem and don't really notice the gap. I use bottom/top 5 gears on each ring so change less. Very occasional issue on big ring/little ring choice but have never missed the top couple of gears. Pretty much all good for me and lots of gouges in the bashring to show it is worthwhile

This is getting confusing because there are two things meant by twin ring. One is just dropping the outer ring for a bash guard. The other is using a dedicated double chainset which tries to have near the top and bottom end gears of a triple.

I have dropped the outer for a bash for a while, but gone back to a triple.. The main reason was that it gave me more clearance and the bash guard came in useful for attempting to get over things I couldn't lift/jump the bike over. It was good if you were just plodding around but I only ran a 32 middle. I don't like having big jumps in gears and I like being able to climb in the middle ring.

I'm thinking of going down to a dedicated double and bash next time everything needs changing, because of the stated benefits and i can't remember the last time I used my large chain ring.

As an aside, also dropping down to a 170 crank length, is it a simple case of added clearance v higher centre of gravity, or does it alter the pedaling much? I've just put on some thinner superstar pedals which have made a difference for both.

Scamper - Member

"As an aside, also dropping down to a 170 crank length, is it a simple case of added clearance v higher centre of gravity, or does it alter the pedaling much?"

Well, put it this way one of my XTR cranks is 170 and one is 175, I have no idea which is which. I think the 170 is on the Hemlock but it could be the other way round. I guess there's even a decent chance the arms have got mixed up. I'm sure some people can tell the difference or think they can, but I sure can't.

schmiken - Member

An in an XC sense:
Pros
Lower Q factor, better chainline,

How does removing the big ring effect Q factor and chainline!?!?!

Scamper - Member

"As an aside, also dropping down to a 170 crank length, is it a simple case of added clearance v higher centre of gravity, or does it alter the pedaling much?"

Northwind - Member
Well, put it this way one of my XTR cranks is 170 and one is 175, I have no idea which is which. I think the 170 is on the Hemlock but it could be the other way round. I guess there's even a decent chance the arms have got mixed up. I'm sure some people can tell the difference or think they can, but I sure can't.

TJ - sorry, didn't imagine you'd still use long cage mechs? you're missing out on the other benefit of more mech/rock clearance there ****ing luddite 😛

oh.. and BTW

the chainline is such that it is really unlikely as the cahin would tend to go off the side of the granny towards the big ring.

Run 38/28 up front, 11-32 out back (9 speed)

That sits me more or less right in between the traditional big/middle and middle/granny.

Took a little getting used to, but I spent most of my time in the middle anyway on the triple when offroad, so a little extra clearance, and removal of the "excess" gears and weight was not a drama.

Use the 38 for road and fireroad stuff and don't lose much at all (I usually ride to my "local" trails, so need higher than standard middle ring) and the few spots where the 28x32 is not low enough, I used to end up hike-a-biking anyway with the traditional granny, so not really much difference, in that regard.

Next bike will have 10 out back and I will alter to 2 upfront if it doesn't already have that. I find I have no need for the 3x from experience and surely even less so with the greater ranger of 10 speed rear blocks. If I was fitter, stronger and technically better and lived closer to the trails too, I'd probably ditch the 2x for 1x...

Cons
Smaller range, more expensive, less replacement chainrings.

Pro - Fashion

Cons - Expense

I don't get this. My last bash ring was cheaper than a good quality 44t and there is no general shortage of replacement chainrings??

GW - Member
"would you not notice a slightly bent crank arm or pedal axle while riding either?"

Absolutely no idea tbh. I notice differences in pedal or shoe thickness, but not crank length. I'll need to get the hammer out and bend a pedal to check this out... I'm not even sure how long the SLX ones on the rigid are, but I bet I could ride all 3 bikes back to back and be none the wiser.

Slightly different setup here - 11-34 9 speed on the back and either 27-40 or 29-42 on the front depending on which bike I am using.

Only a slight lose of range and don't miss the real granny gears anyway.

Really like the 27-40 for XC.

Have tried the follwing combo's on my Enduro, 22/36, 22/34, 24/34 and 24/36. I now run the 24/36 x 11/32, this seems to offer the best speed, climbability and shifting performance for me.
You can notice the difference with the different setups so I would experiment if possible. I also run a 36t max bash which helps with clearance.
Any real benefits for a 3 ring setup, probably not other than when the outer has worn you can use it as a bash ring :D.

Ride mostly in the Lakes so need granny gear up front for getting up the hills although can do most stuff on middle ring. Currently 22/34 up front or 22/36.

11-36 9 speed cassette.....now that's the way forward. Get's rid of buying lots of new stuff. But I don't imagine SRAM or Shimano setting aside the campaign to persuade us all that 10 speed is the only way forward.

Is there a gap for someone independent to step in here and sweep up?

I now run the 24/36 x 11/32

I reckon this would be almost the ideal gearing for me if I was to go 2x9 on my Anthem. I'm not sure that 36/11 is a high enough gear for the odd firetrack descent though (I do a bit of XC racing, and although I know I could spin faster on these sections, it is quite nice to just gently turn the pedals in a big gear sometimes).

I'm wondering if it might be possible to swap the 11t sprocket on an XT 11-32 for a 10t sprocket to give a slightly larger top gear. Anyone tried that?

The alternative would be 38t chainring, but that sounds like a big jump for the front mech to smoothly cope with, and clearance would probably become a bit tight if I upped the inner ring to 26t.

2x9 is sounding more appealing than 2x10 since I would just be replacing bits when they wear out anyway.

I think Hope are including an 11-36 in the cassette-o-freehub thing. And seen conflicting info but some mags say there's to be a 9-34 as well. Expensive though.

There is a way... Shimano make a 12-36 deore block, designed for 29ers. And you can take that and then monkey around with the rings. But it's very heavy and you'll basically need 2 cassettes to do it (or buy individual rings seperately, but that's usually quite pricy)

I've read of cnc'd 36T 9-speed sprockets, designed to be fitted on a freehub before you fit a standard cassette. You would have to loose the 11T though to fit it on, so only 12-36 or 13-36 (9-speed), depending on whether you use an 11-32 or 11-34 cassette (probably best with 11-34, due to smaller jump to 36T).

Prototype 9 - 36 tooth Cassette Gearing

http://www.pinkbike.com/news/9-36-cassette-prototype-2011.html

I don't like double - I like spending most of my time in the middle ring rather than shifting between a 24 and 36.

Big ring is handy on the road too.

Big ring looses a few teeth but so what - still works fine and lighter (I don't care abou that though). I've not impaled myself on it in 20+years of hardcore riding.

In summary: double & bash = needs to look current/hardcore/customised.

hardtail is on 22/36, big bike is on 22/32, both run 11-32 cassettes.

the hardtail is only missing the top two gears as compared to the traditional 22/32/44, but i can spin more effectively than my riding buddies.

pros: looks radcore
cons: none for my riding, if i want to go faster on the road, i should be on a more suitable bike.

Triple & bash here. The ultimate solution.
DAMN promised I wouldn't comment on gear threads this year.....<thrashes self with whip>

I was running double and bash for a while and realised it was pointless. I now run 1x9.

Prototype 9 - 36 tooth Cassette Gearing

That article suggest that you can't get 10t sprockets at present without a new hub design (e.g. the new Hope one as mentioned above). 10t singlespeed sprockets are available, although I wonder if they would shift up to the next sprocket adequately.

Cynical +1

Been messing about with dual setups for while now.

I really don't like more than 10T difference between the chainrings, find my legs spinning far too much when I change down to granny, also don't like the fact that you don't get 1:1 ratio on the outer ring with a duo setup.
Other things I don't like are the chain flapping around more and the fact that lower than a 38T means I'm spinning out all the time. Depends on where you live I guess, but where I am are alot of fireroads.

I was thinking of going double and bash + chainguide as I thought this would reduce chain flappage (once chain shortened to appropriate length) - am I wrong? Does going to a medium cage mech in addition do the trick?

Cynical +1

Been messing about with dual setups for while now.

I really don't like more than 10T difference between the chainrings, find my legs spinning far too much when I change down to granny, also don't like the fact that you don't get 1:1 ratio on the outer ring with a duo setup.

you realise Al was making a poor attemp at getting a rise from someone?
10T difference just means far more pointless cross over gear combinations for me, and if the extra gap in ratio changing down to the granny ring bothers you that much there's no reason you can't shift down with the front and up with the rear shifters simultaniously.
Also, you can't have messed about with dual set-ups much if you couldn't figure out a 1:1 ratio on a middle ring (seeing as both rings and largest sprocket are readily available in 32, 34 & 36)

Northwind - 11T sprockets are available for about £3.99 sepatately so not too expensive if you wanted to build a custom 11-36 9speed.

Timmys - depends.
but the smaller the cage = more slappage
larger the rear sprocket = more slappage in the smaller sprockets
front chainring difference = more less tension in mech in smaller sprockets = flappage

I was being entirely serious Gary!

Each to their own or something.

cynic al - you really use the top 2 gears on a triple set up - cos that is all you loose going to 22 / 36. Check the ratios.22/ 36 needs less front shifting - as you never need to shift to the big ring and you can shift onto the granny at teh bottom of each climb

On a average pentlands run I shift the front chainring maybe 3 times, at glentress once.

but the smaller the cage = more slappage
larger the rear sprocket = more slappage in the smaller sprockets
front chainring difference = more less tension in mech in smaller sprockets = flappage

I have to admit to being a bit lost!

I'd be going from 11-34 cassette with 22-32-42 chainrings to 11-34 cassette with 22 & 36 rings.

In the new set-up when I'm in the 36 ring would I get more or less flap/slap when in the mid to small sprockets on the cassette than with the triple (assuming chain is shortened appropriately). In this situation would there be more or less slap/flat with a medium or short cage?

I spent most of the time in my middle ring so didn't fancy a double - I would end up forever front-shifting. Instead I dropped the big and small rings and went 1x9. Hurrah.

Also, you can't have messed about with dual set-ups much if you couldn't figure out a 1:1 ratio on a middle ring (seeing as both rings and largest sprocket are readily available in 32, 34 & 36)

You're missing the point, if I run 34 or 36 on the front, yes I could have 1:1 ratios but then I would end up spinning out in no time.

Yo9u spin out 36 /11 offroad? You use the top two gears on a triple as that is all you loose with a 36?

TandemJeremy - Member
cynic al - you really use the top 2 gears on a triple set up - cos that is all you loose going to 22 / 36. Check the ratios.22/ 36 needs less front shifting - as you never need to shift to the big ring and you can shift onto the granny at teh bottom of each climb

On a average pentlands run I shift the front chainring maybe 3 times, at glentress once.

Like I say, each to their own.

I found I do enough road riding on my geared mtb to meake me want a big ring, and I find I did more front shifting on 22/36 as 36 is too big and 22 too small.

I guess I come from more of a road-background and I don't like big jumps.

And I'm faster than you so ner.

Timmys, do you ever use the 22 front 36 rear (what I weould call easy-easy) gear ratio? If you don't then you should get away with a 24/36 setup, this will be slightly better at shifting due to the closer outer diameters of the sprockets. Also there will be more chain tension for the same reason, chain slap is mostly caused by: -

Type of rear mech
Chain tension (Length of chain)
Front / rear gear ratio

All of which you can alter / modify / fettle.

And I'm faster than you so ner.

Maybe you spin your legs too slowly. Ner. 😉

No, the point is that if you want to run 1:1 with the middle ring then you need a cassette with big gaps in. Which is why I have switched back to a triple. I have also found the suspension works better and I can find the right gear easier.
I prefer a double on the road, and would quite like a double on the mountain bike, but with my current bike, I have found the triple to be better.
I also occasionally use the top two gears, but I wouldn't miss them if they weren't there. The point is more to do with the lower gears and the gaps between gears.

No, the point is that if you want to run 1:1 with the middle ring then you need a cassette with big gaps in.

This.

I was running 11-28T when I had a triple on, going to put the duo setup back on when I go 10 speed though as I can then go 30/40 with 11-36, ideal for me.

Must say (apart from the roadie background) I'm with cynic-al.
Never seen any reason to get rid of the big ring.

How many have done because they "think they should"? I wonder. (Wouldn't admit it obviously. 😉 )

Timmys, do you ever use the 22 front 36 rear (what I weould call easy-easy) gear ratio? If you don't then you should get away with a 24/36 setup, this will be slightly better at shifting due to the closer outer diameters of the sprockets. Also there will be more chain tension for the same reason, chain slap is mostly caused by: -

Type of rear mech
Chain tension (Length of chain)
Front / rear gear ratio

All of which you can alter / modify / fettle.

I don't have a 36 on the cassette, but i do use the easiest gear of 22 front 34 rear quite a lot so wouldn't want to lose that by going to 24 as the smallest at the front.

So given the same chain length (as short as possible) there'd be more slap with a medium cage XT mech versus a long cage XT or no difference?

All XT mechs have the same spring, so the shorter the mech cage the lower the lever effect giving better chain tension (Which is why DH bikes tend to run short mechs and roadie casettes).
The shorter cage however puts the chain in closer proximity to the chain stay so there may be more slap in certain gears vs a longer mech. There will also be differnces between makes and models, i.e. LX, XT, XTR, SRAM, Shimano.........

My best guess is also that there are not many people who have the skill or nuts to do 35 - 40mph+ down single track, which is why many people remove the outer ring.

quick Q for the double+bash crowd, whats your chainline like when the chain is on the two largest sprokets? severly crossed over?

I thought the SLX mech used a stiffer spring for the GS, but I may be mistaken.

float - my 36 ring is in the same position as the middle in a triple so big / big is not great chainline but not horrible

No, the point is that if you want to run 1:1 with the middle ring then you need a cassette with big gaps in.

The point is more to do with the lower gears and the gaps between gears.

Hang on - I was thinking gaps between numbers of teeth on the cassette. The ratio gaps are indeed different. Pretty marginal though, can you really feel that! You need to go to 2 decimal places to even see any real difference. At 1 d.p. the ratios look so close not only are the gaps the same but even six of the nine ratios are the same and the other three only 0.1 different anyway.

(I'm assuming 32T with 11-32 cassette and 34T with 11-34 as you were looking for 1:1)

Can't be arsed reading the above, sorry if this has been said a few times. For me it was because I'm a leftie, so Automatically always put my right foot down when not moving, taking the big ring off means I'm not constantly gouging my right calf, which I got sick of. I don't miss the big ring one bit, because I live in a very hilly place and rarely ride on roads. I generally don't bother with bash rings, which probably makes it all look a bit sh1t.
[IMG] [/IMG]
[IMG] [/IMG]

to add to the Pro list;

With a bash ring, you won't rip your kecks when you use the bike to pop to the shops on

With a bash ring instead of a ring, when you fall off there's no big ring to gouge your leg open

Timmy - all that changes between short/medium and long cage mechs is the amount of slack the mech can take up and unless you use daft gears eg. 22-15 or less don't worry about it, with a shorter cage, the mech just sits with the cage at a shallower angle in the smaller sprockets(and has slightly less spring tension)
unless you are as pernickety as me (unlikely) you'll probably never notice the slightly looser chain tension from a medium cage, but the shorter cage the better if you've ever snagged/smacked a mech on something 😉

Was in my lbs last weekend and the 10 speed blocks are filtering down to hard core riders in there, using a single chainring up front.
I went home thinking about this, but then went and calculated my gear inches using a 22/32/44 and 11-34 XT set up and realised I simply can't do without my lowest gears.
A combination of hilly stuff and weak legs!

I could do without my big ring cos it's hardly ever used on my home patch, but not the lower gears.
As an aside, if you dumped the big ring, can you space the granny/middle out from the bb a bit?
or does a dedicated double cainring do this?
..... wondering it it might be of help for those suffering chainsuck maybe?
Q

Hardcore riders? 😆

Yes you can space the crankset over a bit but it'd be a little silly to do so as ideally you want the middle ring to work with every rear cassette sprocket and the granny only needs to be used with half of them.

36 ,26 up front and 11-34 at the back, homemade Alu bashguard and short cage XTR mech (old one), absolutely perfect, have never spun out on the road downhill and have all the gears i need uphill ,short cage mech quietens it down alot and bashguard means im not loosing any teeth or skin, the Alu bashguard weighs less than a plastic one i had previously strangely .

'hardcore riders...'
Well deduced form the fact an Ibis was covered in mud!
I sorry, temporary lapse 🙄

Yep, forgot about the chain line aspect.
Thanks GW
Q

because I live in a very hilly place and rarely ride on roads.

I use the whole (11-28 8speed) cassette in the 36 but only 1-3 in the granny (22) so only ever use it for steep/long/loose climbs.
22-18/19 pretty much = 36-28
I hate chainslap and find it far noticably worse even with a 30T largest sprocket (and chain as short as poss.)

I have 22/32 and 11-32 on my Pitch. I got rid of the 42 as I was always smacking it into rocks (peaks rocky riding and a low BB) but I've found I keep dropping the chain over rough stuff as there's not enough tension. So I've just fitted a Blackspire Stinger to stop that. Can't shorter chain any further - tested it at full compression and I daren't go any shorter.
TJ - round here that gear you have in your pic would be so annoying - it'd be slapping around all over the show!!
Personally if I get a bike with a higher BB I'll go back to triple with maybe a big bashguard over the 42t ring.
Overall I'm reasonably happy but I'd love to have a couple of higher gears back for the fast downhills.

Dibbs:
Nope, but for downhill that thing called gravity does it for me!
It's enough to have me hanging onto the brake levers for dear life. There's no way I'd even get into the top ring coming home, or if I did someone would have to scrape me off one of the hedges later 😳
I only use the big ring when off home turf, probably on hols, which is quite a rarity!
cheers matey
Q

the only downhills you can spin a 36T ring out on around dibs are [b]on-road[/b]
But even if he did find a long straight downhill section of actual off-road, once top pedalling speed is reached you're better off just tucking in and embracing the free speed available from good ol gravity

This question really depends on rides that you do. I rarely used my big ring and normally broke it before it wore out. SO I put a bash on instead of replacing it and never missed it. In general it was cheaper and the clearance in better.

Con's are lack of higher gears but again that depends on what you are riding. IF there are fast open downhills or road sections on your rides then you may appreciate it.

I eventually went singlespeed for the challenge and cheapness. My race/nice bike has a big ring as a lot of the races I do include fast open downhills and road sections (ie. Kielder 100, selkirk marathon, grassington marathon etc.)

GW: After driving all week, I almost invariably ride from home. I'm in the lucky position of riding out my back gate, along a lane for ~ 150m then it goes up very steeply either a degrading/potholed/rough road now unsuitable for vehicles or up a bridleway, slightly less steep more contouring. Both are ~ 1 mile long and take me up into woods and then give me a quick bash offroad or through and onto other tracks, time allowing. Consequently the return home is always down the twisting bridleway, loose and rocky in places, wet and muddy in others, nothing is open or fast.
(Whilst they might not be the longest trips out there, the ability to ride out the back gate is brilliant.)
As you say, use of the big ring depends where you ride, and so for me it almost never gets used unless I drive somewhere.
Q