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Hearing bad reliability reports for the Pro-One's - can anyone here comment? Or recommend something else tubeless, fast and reliable?
Have run 28c pro ones tubeless since April and can't fault them. Couldn't get them inflated with just a track pump but fine with co2 or an airshot. No known punctures, fast rolling and good in the wet.
I've been rebuilding the Tripster today and removed the current 1x11 set up and instead set it up as 2x11 with a compact up front.
After much faffing about I remembered why it is that I don't have front mech's on any of my bikes. Bloody horrible things.
Anyway, after much faffing the front shifting still isn't great so it got me thinking.......
The compact with an 11/28 cassette gives me a spread from 32.8 to 122.7 gear inches.
With a 46t single ring and an XT 11/40 cassette the gear spread would be from 31.1 to 112.9
According to my workings out I'd only really lose the equivalent of 50/11 from the double set up and if I went to a 48t single ring up front I'd have virtually the same spread as a double.
Is there any reason that I shouldn't run the Tripster with 1x11 running a 46t or 48t up front?
I'd be using an XT or XTR rear mech with a Tanpan so it would still work with my Ultegra shifters.
Is there any reason that I shouldn't run the Tripster with 1x11 running a 46t or 48t up front?
Depends on how you use it. If you do a lot of road miles training, then the smaller gaps between gears allows you to keep a steady power and cadence more easily. If you just ride around for pleasure the whole time, then you just ride a bit slower if you don't have the exact gear you want.
At 100rpm 50x11 is about 36mph vs 33mph for 50x12.
So you might need the gear depending on your natural cadence.
Is there any reason that I shouldn't run the Tripster with 1x11 running a 46t or 48t up front?
I'd be using an XT or XTR rear mech with a Tanpan so it would still work with my Ultegra shifters.
Have you tried a gear calulator? Here are your two setups:
[url= http://www.gear-calculator.com/?GR=DERS&KB=34,50&RZ=11,12,13,14,15,17,19,21,24,28&UF=2150&TF=90&SL=2.6&UN=KMH&GR2=DERS&KB2=48&RZ2=11,13,15,17,19,21,24,27,31,35,40&UF2=2150 ]HTML 5 Gear Calculator 34t/50t & 11-28 vs 48t & 11-40[/url]
(you may need to select "gear inches" from the Display drop down to refresh the page after it loads).
Your gear range is basically the same, but you have 13-15% gear step on every shift with the single chainring, if you have the double compact you get close spacing above 22kph.
Personally I find more gears is more when touring around, more choice, better match to cadence.
Few things to some post in the last few pages,
Some great info on gear, front chain ring sizes etc, good timing as I been asked to spec/do a interesting build!
Alloy nipples, look at Crosslight HD wheel set they come with brass nipples as standard.
Pro 1s, been running 28 tubeless with no issues, think they been great, and holding up v well, Not tried S ones yet (they turned up after a event I wanted them for) but might be fitting G one soon.... as they sitting there calling out to be fitted... 😈 But really I need to swap stans alpha 400 rims for the grail ones.
Daffy, not far from me 😉 if you passing Devizes way pop/let me know be good to meet you!
Have you tried a gear calulator? Here are your two setups:
HTML 5 Gear Calculator 34t/50t & 11-28 vs 48t & 11-40
(you may need to select "gear inches" from the Display drop down to refresh the page after it loads).Your gear range is basically the same, but you have 13-15% gear step on every shift with the single chainring, if you have the double compact you get close spacing above 22kph.
Thanks for that link. I was using the Sheldon Brown gear calculator but the one in your link is much better.
Still not 100% sure on whether I'm going to stick with the 1x set-up or whether I should go Di2 with a compact.
My current thinking is to go to 2x11 Di2 with Ultegra hydraulics and an XT rear mech to take advantage of the clutch. After doing a bit of reading yesterday I'm not sure yet whether I'd need the XT front mech as well or whether I would be able to use the Ultegra one.
Part of my thinking is that it would be quite easy to switch between 1x and 2x set-ups by just removing the front mech and swapping chainrings, no messing about with cables!
My understanding is you can't match road/MTB mech's front/rear.
You can run both MTB mechs, or both road mechs, with any shifter, but you can't mix the mech's. I am no expert, I just read the internet. There was more on this a page or two back.
Also, see: [url= http://e-tubeproject.shimano.com/pdf/en/HM-CC.3.0.0-01-EN.pdf ]http://e-tubeproject.shimano.com/pdf/en/HM-CC.3.0.0-01-EN.pdf[/url]
If your buying now, you want the latest bluetooth battery (external or seatpost) and either the XT MT800 display or the EW-WU101 wireless unit so you can adjust settings from a phone/tablet via bluetooth would be my advice. Again, not an expert - just pricing out options for my tripster build 😉
I'd been hunting about for the etube compatibility chart but only found it today, looks like I'll be needing XTR front and rear mech's if I want it to work the way I'm planning.
I'm a bit disappointed that when I spoke to Upgrade last month before I bought the frame they told me that there was no sign of the v2 frame and if there was going to be one it wouldn't be until mid to late 2017 🙁
I'm not too keen on drilling the frame to run it internally with it being a new frame so it looks like I'll be needing the external battery and holder. I'll need to read up on the bluetooth battery as I didn't realise that you could get one, I thought you just needed the dongle thing.
25c Pro-Ones installed and I love them. Compared to the S-Ones:
They're light! They weighed in at 275 & 257g (IIRC the s-ones were in the 350g region)
They're still pretty wide: Come up to 28.5mm @ 110psi on my Grails
They're fast: It feels a lot easier to accelerate, and maintain speed
Lastly, they're comfy! I think I might have been doing it wrong with the S-Ones, maybe I was running the pressures above their sweet-spot, because the Pro-Ones feel more compliant at a similar % of max pressure - despite losing 4.5mm of girth to the S's
Advice please. I have just entered the 2017 Majorca 312. I was planning to buy a Kinesis Gran Frondo Disc frame and build it up, but looking at the geometry and weight of the ATR its not a million miles apart.
Could I / should I use my ATR for the event? It has a full Ultegra 11 speed group set and hydraulics, a carbon seat stem, 3T Ergonova bars and stem and Hunt 4 Season wheels on it at the moment with Strada Bianca 30mm tyres.
Its a lovely ride, however, I was thinking of fitting it with Hunts's 30Carbon Aero Discs, Dura Ace crank and rear mech and fitting a carbon stem.
What are peoples thoughts on this and its suitability for the Majorca 312?
Hi all, great to see this thread alive still. I'm looking to replace the headset on my tripster but have been advised by a dealer the only replacement available is the FSA headset that the bike was supplied with. It seems a bit crazy that a mass produced bike only has one option in this regard, and I was rather hoping to get something blingy like a Chris king. Has anyone fitted a non fsa headset?
What are peoples thoughts on this and its suitability for the Majorca 312?
Could I / should I use my ATR for the event?
Could you? For sure. I have started taking my Tripster away with me instead of my race bike. I stick some 25mm Open Pave tyres on and swap the seatpost+saddle.* Sure, it's 2Kg heavier, but the ride is great. I love the way the bike rides. I have the position set up almost identically to my race bike (there is 2cm more stack). The only time I'd wish for my race bike was when I was having a proper crack at some of the 100 climbs segments on Strava.** The rest of the time, the weight difference is irrelevant, and I don't even think about it. I also have a GS mech to take a 32 cassette. Perfect for spinning up those silly hills.
Those Hunt wheels would save you 200g. Not a great deal. They're only a few mm deeper, so wouldn't be much more aero. But over 300km, with all that climbing, they would make a bit of difference.
Maybe the bigger question is how would *you* feel about riding it? What do you want to get out of the day? Are you riding just for the thrill of it? Are you trying to set a top time? Are you trying to ride against your mates?
* I just swap the one from the other bike, as I usually have a seatpack mount on for commuting.
** I'm fairly certain I would've got second on these 2 with a 2Kg lighter bike.
- Asterton Bank ( https://www.strava.com/segments/739488)
- Burway ( https://www.strava.com/segments/6681340)
Hi all, great to see this thread alive still. I'm looking to replace the headset on my tripster but have been advised by a dealer the only replacement available is the FSA headset that the bike was supplied with. It seems a bit crazy that a mass produced bike only has one option in this regard, and I was rather hoping to get something blingy like a Chris king. Has anyone fitted a non fsa headset?
I thought Tripster was FSA No42 tapered? I am using an Aerozine on my carbon MTB with the same headset - should be lots choice?
Not sure you can use external Chris King if its internal headset though?
Anyone heard anymore on the v2 frame? The large 60cm frame was no longer listed on the upgrade website when I looked the other day.
If it does not appear soon, likely to buy a Mason Bokeh (alu) instead!
Thanks matts. I think i'll use the Tripster and just adapt it. I'm just looking to complete / survive the event in the time limit. Comfort will be a big part of enjoying the ride so the Tripster makes sense.
I think i'll invest some of the money I was going to use for the Gran Frondo in making the bike lighter. I've also got a stone I can lose to help. 😆 If nothing else, it'll help psycologically!
I appear to have 'joined the club' 🙄
[url= https://c4.staticflickr.com/6/5717/30623474915_b593b8dae3_z.jp g" target="_blank">https://c4.staticflickr.com/6/5717/30623474915_b593b8dae3_z.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/NE6jbP ]Untitled[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/17059060@N00/ ]eastham_david[/url], on Flickr
[url= https://c1.staticflickr.com/6/5812/30587426216_237ec15031_z.jp g" target="_blank">https://c1.staticflickr.com/6/5812/30587426216_237ec15031_z.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/NAUyaw ]Untitled[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/17059060@N00/ ]eastham_david[/url], on Flickr
Ive had my tripster for a few months now, building it with 105 and Hunt cross wheels. Last Saturday was probably the best bike ride I've ever had, riding on quiet lanes and then getting lost on canal and bridle paths. If it were not for the trusty gps flag on my favourite café I'd still be out there now. Its truly a fantastic bike. Here's the bit that's going to get everyone moaning at me though! I think Kinesis have pushed the ATR description a bit tooo far. Adventure? Yep. Touring? Deffo. Race? Er...sorry..no. I know I could make it lighter by spending a few (hundred) quid, but I went out on my elderly VN Yukon yesterday, and the difference on road was night and day. As I say, this is a great bike, and we all knew there would be compromises when we bought one, but a true roadie this frame ain't. Is there enough in my wallet for a GF disc too? Hmmm...
I always thought the 'Race' referred to CX racing, not road racing.
No idea what it'd be like for CX racing either mind you!
My CX Racing on it will, be very limited, that's for sure. 😯
It's my winter and wet commuter/light Touring/bridleway/canal path etc etc bike.
I've spent a happy year on a Kinesis 4S Disc, which is built with around Racelight Disc wheels and 105. I also have a Surly Ogre for around town and family duties (plus a MTB of course).
My riding is based around a regular 15-mile urban commute, 30-50-mile sociable road rides with mates and some touring. I've also got a 140km sportive in the diary for 2017; I usually do about 3-4 of these a year.
I had been thinking of replacing the 4S with an even more road-focused machine (swapping the 4S for commuting duties), but I've been looking instead at the Tripster ATR and Grand Fondo frames. I'd possibly have no need for the Ogre / 4S as a second, utility / commuter bike at that point.
I'm sorry if this has been answered on the thread already, but how have people decided between the GF Ti and Tripster? How do they do as an only road machine?
Thanks 🙂
Wondered when you'd report here. Good to see ya got it ok and looking FWD to first ride reports
My riding is based around a regular 15-mile urban commute, 30-50-mile sociable road rides with mates and some touring. I've also got a 140km sportive in the diary for 2017; I usually do about 3-4 of these a year.
Thats pretty much what I use my tripster for. I'm not a fast rider so the tripster suits me very well. I have it on 35mm challenge strada tyres. It rolls well and is really comfortable. I'm not any slower on the tripster than I was on my old ribble.
By "racing" I think they mean stuff like the Transcontinental Race rather than urban fixed gear crits, no?
Can't race a TT bike in every competition either even though no one would quibble that they are race bikes.
I'm sorry if this has been answered on the thread already, but how have people decided between the GF Ti and Tripster? How do they do as an only road machine?
For road only, I would go with the GF. It will take reasonably big tyres, guards, a rack, etc. But the geo is more road oriented. The big advantage of the Tripster is the clearances for bigger, knobbly tyres, and the more relaxed geo for offroading. If you have another bike specifically for that, then I'm not sure the Tripster has any major benefits.
Also, until the Tripster V2 arrives, the GF looks a bit sleeker (IMHO) due to the flat-mount calipers and internal routing.
I'm not sure if the GF frame is any lighter, but the fork is a few g lighter.
Wondered when you'd report here. Good to see ya got it ok and looking FWD to first ride reports
🙂
This Conservatory Ceiling is getting the way of bike building, 5m lengths of plastic and wood means I can't get to the bloody thing 🙁
Thought I'd post some love for my tripster. Bought it in the January sales and without being used much until March it did feel like an unnecessary indulgence. Then....
I took extended parental leave...
[url= https://s21.postimg.org/9ba3levo3/20160511_131952.jp g" target="_blank">
Went touring...
[url= https://s13.postimg.org/y427idp8z/20160423_152212.jp g" target="_blank">
Bit of "gravel"..
[url= https://s3.postimg.org/4e19j26vz/DSC_0197.jp g" target="_blank">
[url= http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/riding-home-for-a-pint-with-dad ]Rode home for a pint[/url]...
[url= https://s17.postimg.org/eptkjiukb/DSC_0289.jp g" target="_blank">
Went touring again...
[url= https://s15.postimg.org/xcphrjjnb/DSC_0511.jp g" target="_blank">
And it has been an overkill 20 mile/day commuter in between.
It's an awesome bike, I love it.
Well I'm hoping my will be used in as many guises as yours, inc a 25 mile either way Commute in the depths of winter. Lets hope it's as good as you lot say 😯
What size stem are people running on their tripsters? (especially anyone with a 57cm or 60cm frame...)
Think I am running a 90 on a 57 inch frame - feels just about right for me 🙂
Does anyone have any clear details of the version 2 frame - all I can find is rumours and no definitive answers ?
Lee
90 on a 57 here too. Use it with regular drops (for me it's a glorified all-weather road bike for the crappy country roads around here). Might want a bit shorter if using off road. I did try with woodchippers but as that wasn't really how I ended up using the bike, I swapped to drops.
I have a 130 on my 57 most of the time with Cowbell bars. When I did the SDW I put on a 110. No issues with the handling, even if the suggestion is to run a shorter stem.
Built yet, Vortexracing ?
Does anyone have any clear details of the version 2 frame - all I can find is rumours and no definitive answers ?Lee
Here you go:
[url= http://shop.upgradebikes.co.uk/Catalogue/Frames/Kinesis/Tripster-ATR-V2 ]http://shop.upgradebikes.co.uk/Catalogue/Frames/Kinesis/Tripster-ATR-V2[/url]
£1850 RRP with no fork or headset included any more, not seen details of the forks but if you look at the pictures the old pictures we have seen before have a post mount front fork (same as the upgrade catalogue from May on Issuu) that is curved, the new pictures have a straight fork with a flat mount brake.
The problem, for me, is that while it has everything I was waiting for (flat mount, internal routing, bottle boss under downtube) if its over £2k for a frameset with fork your now into some serious money and there are a lot of players in this space - at £1350 street price for v1 [i]with[/i] fork and headset they were playing in their own league/space pretty much.
They will be buying the frames in roubles or dollars, so I guess some is Brexit, but other is just price hike. GF Ti Disc at ~£1600 street price £1800 RRP with fork and headset was what I was expecting.
Might get a Mason Bokeh instead, its Alu not Ti (they have a Ti model coming, but its £2.5K I read on road.cc) but I think Kinesis went to far with the price increase 🙁
Guess total frame price will depend on how much the [i]"optional"[/i] fork is...
Thanks for answers on stem length, I had read a "short" (in road terms) stem was the right choice for the Tripster, I will look at a 90mm or 100mm I think (186cm/6'2" here)
Glad I bought mine when I did. Would not be able to afford the new one and the changes made don't make it any more desirable.
That seems very expensive for the V2 Tripster.
Before I bought my Tripster frame I was having a hunt around for alternatives and from what I remember the Enigma Ecroix was about that price and that was for frame and forks as well as being custom sized!
I've just had a V2 delivered and in the process of building it up - it replaced my cracked V1.
Some lovely touches -
Flat section under the TT for shouldering - nice
Bottle bosses UNDER the downtube - fuel bottle storage..
Internal routing - neat, but now need new cables
Bolt through rear - I don' think I can change my V2 Kinesis CX hubs, so will get the QR dropouts when they turn up at upgrade.
Cool decals too!
DrP
There must be a good reason for the rear mudguard mount facing down but tell me how to install mudguard (sks chromoplastic) to ensure maximum tyre clearance? By drilling a hole to the mudguard and running the screw through it?
That seems very expensive for the V2 Tripster.
It does, especially when you look back to the start of the thread and see that people were buying the full bike for less than that!
oof... Just seen the Upgrade website - £1850 for the frame, when yes, I paid £1795 for the whole bike 2 years ago....
Blimey.
DrP
Prices on everything are up for sure, so its not all increase, but over £2k with fork and headset (lets guess at £2200) puts it really in the big leagues with Enigma, Moots, the Mason TI Bokeh and a lot more "bespoke" frames.
I think the tripster is a great frame, and have been waiting all summer to get a V2 when it came along... but lets face it - it is a mass produced frame from a Russian or Chinese factory. PlanetX are knocking these sort of frames out at £1000 (currently with 25% off as its the end of the world), I can see how the market might support £1600 shop price for Tripster V2 like the GF Ti, but I for one am not prepared to pay new pricing for V2 Tripster.
Which is kind of a bummer, as all the 60 and 57cm V1 frames are now out of stock... and I already grabbed some Shimano hydraulic shifters with flat mount brakes before the price of those went up any more 🙁
I already grabbed some Shimano hydraulic shifters with flat mount brakes before the price of those went up any more
Wanna sell???
DrP
By drilling a hole to the mudguard and running the screw through it?
Yep
The Bike Smith is doing the V1 plus a pair of Hope wheels for 1500 allegedly in all sizes
http://thebikesmith.co/2015-kinesis-tripster-atr-bundle-offer-hope-pro2-sun-ringle-inferno-23
Still won't be getting my money thanks to reported failures and short warranty. Looking at Enigma and Mason currently.