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of a training bike through the winter.
I'm toying with the idea of fitting it with Ultegra Di2 that way, from what I understand, it would be pretty much a case of plugging in the front mech and attaching it so it's ready to go then unplug and remove the mech when I want to go back to 1x11.
Di2 is increasingly interesting prospect as you can mix road and MTB components and still use drop bars hydraulic shifters with XTR for example, even a triple.
Price aside it bugs me though on a Tripster that you need battery power to shift, and if you were on a serious distance always be worried to have a problem that then needed a laptop to resolve....
Price aside it bugs me though on a Tripster that you need battery power to shift, and if you were on a serious distance always be worried to have a problem that then needed a laptop to resolve....
I can see your point totally but at the same time Mike Hall won the Tour Divide running XTR Di2 and Josh Ibbot was running it on his Mason for the Trans Continental and from things I've read they both seemed to find it very reliable.
To the poster above who commented on the alloy nipples on the kinesis wheels - I agree. I just spent an hour replacing two spokes and all the nipples (with black brass) on my front cross light after two nipples sheared in quick succession. That's two years of riding though in crappy conditions so they were all very corroded... I'll have to do the rear too.
NB as a note to others they are 14mm nipples and the only place I could find black brass 14mm nipples ONLINE without going to US was a seller on eBay in Poland.
dc2.0 Thanks for that feedback - that's what I was worried about. I'm pleased to see they do now make a 3 cross version with brass nipples.
Maybe spoke supplies are stuck in transit, too!
Yeah my crosslights lasted one winter of commuting before the alloy nipples started shearing in half.
Price aside it bugs me though on a Tripster that you need battery power to shift, and if you were on a serious distance always be worried to have a problem that then needed a laptop to resolve....
I can see your point totally but at the same time Mike Hall won the Tour Divide running XTR Di2 and Josh Ibbot was running it on his Mason for the Trans Continental and from things I've read they both seemed to find it very reliable
Agreed, in fact I just watched Mike Hall in the Race Across America on "BIKE" TV channel recently (2014) and he was also running Di then as less wear on fingers for monster distances every day for weeks.
As I said its interesting option as I have seen people running triples as well which is possible with Di2 and mixing road/MTB - I have nothing against it other than the "purity" of the idea of mechanical (oh, and the cost!)
NB as a note to others they are 14mm nipples and the only place I could find black brass 14mm nipples ONLINE without going to US was a seller on eBay in Poland.
"bikestacjia" or something? they are good used them before, but did bike.de or bike-discount.de, rosebikes.co.uk or someone not have them? The german shops seem to really carry the full range of sizes and catalogue I find compared to the UK stores.
Trying to find a 142x12 DT Swiss rear hub with centerlock and 11spd shimano freebody, either 350 or 240s if the price was right, proving near impossible! (realise tripster is QR, building for tripster v2... when it comes... or Mason Bokeh if it doesn't)
At 181cm (5'11.5") would I be better going for. 55.5cm or a 57cm?
55.5 I'd say.
I'm 5'11" and the 55.5 is perfect. I think the 57 would be a bit too long.
I'm 5"11 "and a bit" (about 182cm I think) and contrary to the above I'm very happy on the 57cm. Now I've got fairly long legs for the height (34") and my use case is pretty much "all weather riding on crappy tarmac" so not much off-road but with a 90cm stem it's perfect for me and with a 70cm stem I'd be pretty happy off-road too. One advantage of the larger frame is the taller headtube. Also, I'd have 90's style MTB seat post showing if I was on the 55.5cm...
At 181cm (5'11.5") would I be better going for. 55.5cm or a 57cm?
You'd be better off sticking with the on one......Someone on here has had both and rated the on one much better.
THe kinesis geometry is all over the place "designed for use with shorter stem lengths" which sounds like you'd probably want to size up a bit? But then you look at the stack heights and they're about 50mm+ than a road bike, so you'd struggle to get the bars low enough.
Have you looked at Enigma? Think they're a similar price.
Just to pick up on a few posts.
Re size, I'm 180cm and ride the 57 which I felt fitted me much better. I've just cycled through France this summer with rack and panniers on 32mm Continental 4 Seasons fitted to Hut 4 seasons - an excellent wheel. We did a mix of road and gravel and they were brilliant.
On another note, I am also running tubeless 650b Mavic Crossmax XL wheels with Maxis Pace tyres at 1.95 or Panaracer Gravel Kings at 1.75. The hub was 10 speed but I fitted an Edco Monblock on which converts it into 11 speed.
The 650b wheels and tyres are a hoot and just add another dimension to what is a very versatile bike. I commute, tour, do dirt rides and sportives and the bike soaks it up. I now ride it so much that I'm having a clear out of my other bikes.
I am 5ft 10 on a 54 - the 55.5 wasn't around initially I think.
Fit is OK with a 110 stem but I don't think the tripster is suppossed to run a stem that long.
Hence the steering was a bit slack and it wasn't until I put 40c tyres on that I felt OK with it, now I revel in its stableness offroad.
So as long as the standover is OK go for a bigger size than you think as you are going to want to run the shorter stem probably.
I was in the enviable position of owning both...
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http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u161/Razors_kiss/Bike%20Insurance%20Photos/4B17EA37-14D4-4D57-A96C-41E3B9A47354_zpsfaccatyv.jp g"/> [/IMG][/URL]
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http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u161/Razors_kiss/Bike%20Insurance%20Photos/3D2F1863-7997-45E9-BEAA-10DCB5F6EB37_zpspzoacwlr.jp g"/> [/IMG][/URL]
There's remarkably little difference between the 55.5 Tripster and the 56 Pickenflick.
The Tripster is about 15mm higher at the front, but I was running 20mm of spacers under the stem on the Pickenflick. ETT at my saddle position is within 5mm, the build quality on the Tripster is better, but some of the details on the Pickenflick are nicer.
The Pickenflick is stiffer on the move, but less comfortable. The Tripster is prettier, but less understated...the Tripster is lighter...but the Pickenflick has a stiffer fork with more clearance...
Swings and roundabouts...
I'm 180cm, but with fairly wonky body-geometry.
I was very happy with my 55.5cm Tripster until yesterday, when I built up my 54cm Planet-X XLS... which just feels a bit more right for me (shorter top tube, near identical reach)... it probably warrants a few long spins to really draw a fair comparison. But out of interest ...
LONG SHOT: [b]Would anyone be interested in swapping a 54 Tripster frame for my 55.5???[/b]
Try Turnerguy above.
Hah, just seen this - I have been tried.
I think I can accomodate this but I have a question for everyone.
I see that the seat tube angle slackens a bit as you go from the 54 to the 55.5. and upwards.
[img] 
[/img]
http://www.kinesisbikes.co.uk/Catalogue/Models/Adventure/Tripster-ATR
The means that the reach of the 55.5 is less than that of the 54.
[img] 
[/img]
Although the effective TT has lengthed when going to the 55.5, I would have a smaller cockpit as I need to be in the same place in relation to the BB when set up correctly, ie.e shove the saddle forward a bit.
So I would now actually need a longer stem to keep the same cockpit size, which isn't what I want, and Paul would actually be getting a longer reach on a 54, which isn't what he wants either I think.
Am I right, or am I right ?
whitecitadel: di2 on a tripster is also great because you can add shifters too the ends of your aerobars. Great for long-distance bike packing.
I'd fit MTB gears if starting from scratch. 30/32 is too high for repeated 20% hills and a fully loaded bike unless you are *very* fit.
I'm just thinking of setting my tripster up 1x11 for CX racing... I have a spare set of XT cranks which were originally 2x.
Do MTB cranks work ok?
Those figures are weird (at first glance) - a slacker seat angle, surely moves the saddle [i]back[/i]?
The head angle is the same, the top tube is longer (9mm), but the reach is now nearly 5mm shorter?
Don't get it - although the "reach" according to that pic doesn't really mean the reach - its some arbitrary measurement from the bb to the headtube. Pretty meaningless if you ask me!
Which is why I don't think Reach (especially on its own) works.
Looking at the above: A 42cm difference in rider height can be accommodated by 23mm increase in frame size.
Reach (the proper measurement) is massively effected by the number of spacers under your stem.
(i edited Daffy, so agree with what you've said) 🙂 - (but i think you mean 42mm)
[img] https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/content_link/VzFkhFCn1jFDniG3opo6logE3pzMBNDNgjOiVlGncMvKamKpDmzhoSLqN6UuAaSx/file [/img]
(thanks to http://www.bikegeo.net)
This is the 55.5 vs the 54.
Seattube-length/toptube-angle is not modelled, effective top tube is.
As you can see the 55.5 is "longer": the seattube is relatively further backward.
If you keep the stem the same real height, the reach is identical.
But will I not now be sitting further behind the BB, as it were, or if I sit over the BB in the same position, the reach will be shorter.
I am thinking of the classic kneecap over the pedal axle position, which will be the same on both frame sizes, so accounting for the lesser reach number.
Yup: if you achieve the same seated position over the BB the size difference disappears.
you mean appears, don't you. The effective TT is slightly longer, but because of the slacker seattube more of it is behind the BB and the reach is less, like on their chart.
I think I am going to have to find someone or somewhere with a 55.5 to check.
Where are you TG?
Woking, Surrey.
Junction 11 of the M25 and then down a bit. Near McLaren/Apple.
Cyclist magazine have a 'gravel' bike special and are showing the new ATR V2
Looks nice, they say it's compatible with 650b but don't say how big a tyre,
I'm near Bristol (just outside Castle Comb) if you're heading down the M4 at any point.
cheers, I have mates in Cardiff that I visit occasionally, although I have a lot going on at the moment so nothing imminent 🙁
If I'm reading the Kinesis website correctly - is the warranty offered on the Tripster ATR only 1 year????
Seems ridiculously short, most Ti frames have a 10 year guarantee, even the ones sold by Planet X
Think it is 3 years
There is a frame info sheet on the website that says 1 year for all frames, even 3 years seems short
its three years
9. What is the Warranty Period on my product?: 3 years warranty for all frames, 1 year for paint and decals, 1 year for accessories such as forks, handlebars and wheelsets. These limited warranties do not apply to normal wear and tear, claimed defects, malfunctions or failures that result from abuse, neglect, improper assembly, improper maintenance, alteration, collision, crash or misuse. Installation of components, parts, or accessories not originally intended for use with or compatible with Kinesis UK frames and components will void any warranty offered by Kinesis UK.
[url= http://www.kinesisbikes.co.uk/AdditionalDepartments/Footer-Content/Support/FAQ-2 ]http://www.kinesisbikes.co.uk/AdditionalDepartments/Footer-Content/Support/FAQ-2[/url]
Its 3 years, i know, i claimed after 2.
@TurnerGuy
If you're wanting a try on a 55cm then drop me a line. I'm not far from Woking at all so you can have a go on mine if you want.
whitecitadel: di2 on a tripster is also great because you can add shifters too the ends of your aerobars. Great for long-distance bike packing.I'd fit MTB gears if starting from scratch. 30/32 is too high for repeated 20% hills and a fully loaded bike unless you are *very* fit.
Yes I saw that Mike Hall did that on his bike, very flexible (expensive) system. I have been doing some calculations and the XT really is great value, and from what I read as long as you run front/rear mech the same as MTB or Road you can mix - so you could go XT with drop bar RS785 shifters (hydraulic a must for me).
Depends what your riding I suppose, and how long its uphill, I can climb the big hill on local MTB route I ride on 24/22 (1.09), and 30/32 gives 0.983 - but that's not "repeated hills" as you suggest. I actually just bought some 30/42 XTR cranks I might put on, the chainline is not identical to road though - might need creative spacing.
Of course if you went di2 with MTB shifters you could run a triple!
Waiting for pic of v2 frame at bike show at NEC, anyone seen one?
@TurnerGuy
If you're wanting a try on a 55cm then drop me a line. I'm not far from Woking at all so you can have a go on mine if you want.
thanks for the offer, will get in touch !
have been doing some calculations and the XT really is great value, and from what I read as long as you run front/rear mech the same as MTB or Road you can mix
So,does this mean I can use RS785 levers with Di XTR rear mech on a 1X11 set up? 'Cos my lbs said I couldn't.
This was my hoped for set up on the V2 ATR when it becomes available.
R785s works perfectly with XTR11 Di2 or Alfine 11 Di2 for a 1*11 setup. I don't see why you would, but it works fine.
I've done this with both, it works just fine.
There are (solvable) complications with front mechs and firmware, but the rears work fine.
Anyone tried the Schwalbe g-one tyres?
My Tripster is reborn with Ultegra Hydro 2x11 kit... and I'm delighted! Such a nice road bike now. 52-36 up front, 11-32 out back is a simply brilliant range of gears for me. Brakes and shifting are sublime too.
Might swap out the 30c S-One's (33mm wide on my Grails!) for something faster now. Hearing bad reliability reports for the Pro-One's - can anyone here comment? Or recommend something else tubeless, fast and reliable?
you could go XT with drop bar RS785 shifters (hydraulic a must for me).
This is probably how my Tripster will end up when I wear out my Di2 road FD/RD. I have RS785 brakes at the moment and they are fantastic.
Depends what your riding I suppose, and how long its uphill, I can climb the big hill on local MTB route I ride on 24/22 (1.09), and 30/32 gives 0.983 - but that's not "repeated hills" as you suggest.
I like riding [url= http://audaxclubhackney.co.uk/events/greenwich-mean-climb/ ]this kind of thing[/url] as well as 200-400km/day touring 🙂
(I also got my numbers wrong - the front is a normal Ultegra compact which is 50/34 giving an effective ratio of 1.06.)
Of course if you went di2 with MTB shifters you could run a triple!
What I really want is to gain 100W on my FTP and lose 5-10kg...
Might swap out the 30c S-One's (33mm wide on my Grails!) for something faster now. Hearing bad reliability reports for the Pro-One's - can anyone here comment?
I've got 30c S-Ones on my winter/exploring wheels and 25c Pro-Ones on my summer wheels. I've put a bit more than 1500 miles on both sets with no issues.
They both ride well and are both far better than the Sector 28s I tried before. Very easy to set up as well.