No mug for me, but i already got a bowl (and 10quid off) 🙂
And I think they look lovely.
I opened my box and seen my new shiney xtr brakes but I'll be honest a little gutted when I seen a green rubber thing with an R on it but no mug
Right, class action on mug inconsistency then?
Fitted mine and swapped over hoses last night. Really easy job.
Going to shorten the hoses today after I've bought some new sharpe cable cutters/Stanley knives.
I think they look great but I run a black/silver colour scheme.
Many thanks to the op for pointing these out.
Anyone tried these yet? How do they compare to Elixirs please?
Hope everyone who wanted a set has got them- all out now apart from 'limited availability' on the silver LH levers.
I wonder if rose bikes wonder what hit them?
Nice big Rose box arrived, but no haribo, no mug, and no bowl! Just some stupid shiny things from Shimano. Rubbish service!
Sounds like they ran out of mugs before they ran out of brakes.
Who delivered your brakes ??
Rose Bikes DHL link says at Import centre yesterday.
Got a Parcelforce Worldwide card through door today as I was out.
Delivery was ParcelFarce.
For info - one of these bunnies is need for bleeding
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=34710
(£4 as opposed to £40 for Avid's kit!)
What on earth is that ?
They call it... the .... Oil Funnel 🙂
Bike24 in germany have them i think, for those who missed Rose
Gutted to have missed out n a set of blacks 🙁
yep got the black ones here 🙂
Mine arrived today.
Got the beautiful free mug, with a small chip in it 🙁
But as has been said, they come with an olive each, so now I have two too many olives.
Now i'm just waiting on mineral oil and an 'Oil Funnel' from CRC so I can shorten and swap the cables.
Cheers Op!
Mryeti, you can do that without bleeding them.
Go back a few pages, find a pdf guide I posted from shimano showing how to do it.
(essentially, take pads out, push pistons in a bit, pull cables out, cut cables, re-olive/insert them, one by one grab the caliper and squeese the pistons back in forcing oil along the tube, pushing any small air out and then push them into the correct side and screw them in)
As above, cheers for posting the link. I've been looking for brakes to replace my ageing hayes stoker trails for almost a year now. Was set on some X2's but having use of some recently I was shocked to discover a real lack of power. Once I saw this link I ordered without any more thought 🙂
Ordered wednesday and sat on my bike now, stunning service. I got my free mug and a couple of packs of their own brand energy sweets which look lovely.
I have no mechanical skill but managed to fit them this afternoon. I swapped and shortened the cables and the front one is perfect. On the rear one however I cannot get the pistons to push fully in so is dragging on the disk and the lever bites instantly where as the front has lovely progression. Have i got air in the system and is the only fix getting them bled?
For those who think they're ugly, i disagree, a lovely bit of well engineered silver. Very impressed 🙂
I'm a bit depressed now, i ordered mine on wednesday as well and they're not here yet 🙁
Hey Winrya. Possible that when you cut the rear brake down, you didn't lose much actual fluid from the system and now it is a bit too full? Also check the little phillips screw on the lever that affects the free stroke.
Also try taking the wheel off, pads out, and using a tyre iron or your fingers on both sides of the piston to push it back in.
Otherwise, just detatch from the lever, then hold the cable directly upwards, then push the piston back in a smidge, then reattatch to lever.
5 pages long,Rose bikes must love this.
Just so you know, air in the system would demonstrate itself in a squidgy lever - i.e. the lever can be moved for a long way after making contact with the pad (because air is compressible, but fluid is not).
Cheers for the reply continuity. It does feel like the system is over full but wasn't sure that was possible. If I push one piston in the other comes back out.
Is removing from the lever the only way of removing fluid from the system?
I thought you had to push the pistons out so when you reconnect the hose pushing the piston in pushes air out. If i've already pushed it in I won't be able to do that if you understand what i'm trying to say lol
Bum. Nothing's ever easy is it? Post-mount calliper and IS mount bike. Now gotta find an adapter...
Turns out i just had too much fluid in the rear brake. Pushed the pistons out, took the lever off, pushed the pistons half way back, reattached hose and continued to push completely back. Now feel perfect.
My first impression is how powerful and solid they feel. Looking forward to my first proper ride tomorrow 🙂
Cheers for the advice, never for a minute thought id get a bargain set of brakes and get away with no labour charge 8)
@Dez
What you need? I have a XT 160mm Post>IS Rear if you wanted it.
Thanks Jamie - I think I've got the adapter. Will post back here if I have needs 🙂
I have need of a 180mm is to post, but ima wait and just use my 185mm avid rotors and mounts.
Grats on the self-fix Winrya - pretty satisfying eh!
Quick Q: I am reusing my old avid G3 rotors, and have got a bit of brake squeal on my first run.
Red rubber grease behind the pad?
Also, worth crosshatch sanding the rotors lightly then bedding in properly? (didnt get a chance before first ride)
Out of stock now. I've been dithering over buying some for a few days so hope they'll get them back in at the same price 😕
So what do you think of them?
Mine came with no adaptor, 2 inserts & 2 olives, a mug & 2 bags of sweats.
Resin pads were fitted without fins.
I've had to run them a bit further inboard to the M775's to make one finger braking comfortable, & rotating them on the bars to a comfortable angle has ment that my 2008?? silver XT dual release shifters are a bit to far rotated for my liking but I'll live with it.
Shortened both hoses when swopping round, bleed method in page 3 link worked well & can do one finger stoppies start out the box without any real effort made to bed the pads in.
From the saddle the reservoirs look a bit bulbous & the bright chrome is a bit to bright for my liking.
But for the money there nice strong brakes & feel nice but I wouldn't be changing my other M775's for M785's at the moment but I'll see how they go & which I prefer over time.
Phew - mine just shipped, thought I'd missed out as they were showing out of stock.
I've done 30 miles on them over the weekend and I'm blown away by their performance. Running 203 and 180mm discs the power and modulation is incredible. I assume they're running on sintered pads so I ordered some organic as ive always found sintered to be pretty rubbish, in this case they are perfect, even from cold.
I do have a little air in the system however:( doesn't effect normal use as the levers are perfectly firm but when I lift the bike onto the rear wheel to squeeze through tight spaces and press the levers they go soft so I'm assuming the air is rising into the levers. Will opening the valve on the lever and pushing fluid through from the caliper be enough to push this bit of air out?
Cheers
Do they come with mounting bolts at all folks?
Yes but only for 160mm post mount fork.
Thanks 🙂
Anyone know the weight on these XT brakes? Or the SLX for that matter?
And whats the difference between XT, SLX, Deore?
The XT has the adjustment screw which SLX doesn't have but whats the difference between SLX and Deore?
SLX has reach adjust. I think the caliper is the same for SLX/XT.
Also they differ in the materials and weight and construction. Forging vs machining vs e.t.c
Mine were shipped today, only just made it on these.....happy days!!!
Just shortened mine without bleeding using the guide a few pages back.
Perfect length and no air at all.
Mine's just shipped with an inclusion in the despatch note...
1 600600 NEUKUNDEN-GESCHENK
Woop! I love presence.
1 600600 NEUKUNDEN-GESCHENK .
8)
Ah, nice one - me too:
1 600600 NEUKUNDEN-GESCHENK .
2 523615 Continental Reifen GP4000 S faltbar black/black 700x23C
1 573437 Continental Rennrad-Schlauch 700x18-25mm 60/SV
1 1769793 SHIMANO HR-Scheibenbremse XT 785, 170cm, PM Sattel, Hebel rechts, o. Disc black
1 1769775 SHIMANO VR-Scheibenbremse XT 785, 100cm, PM Sattel, Hebel links, o. Disc black
Blimey they were a piece of wee-wee to install 🙂
Took pics, in case anyone needs them for the confidence booster. Suspect everyone will have sorted it by now though (excuse is, we've been decorating the house!)
Start by removing the brake pads and putting the yellow spacer block in the calliper in their place.
mark hose lengths (measure twice, cut once...). I used a small piece of tape.
[img] 
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unscrew 8mm shroud nut
[img] 
[/img]
gently (but firmly!) pull hose free (older brakes needed a little squeeze of the lever to get this to come out, these didn't)
[img] 
[/img]
cut hose to length with very sharp knife (or cable cutters) - some fluid will spill from the cut end, so have something ready soak it.
The straighter and cleaner the cut the better as less likely to leak..
[img] 
[/img]
using the supplied plastic clamp thingies, hold hose in a vice - [i]make sure the shroud nut and cover are down the caliper end of the hose[/i]
Olive should be 4mm from the end (although these seem to be a loose fit, so it's not crucial)
[img] 
[/img]
Tap in the insert until flush
[img] 
[/img]
push the hose into the (other) lever. Push firmly while doing up the shroud nut.
[img] 
[/img]
A small amout of fuid may leak out. Tighten nut with the 8mm spanner.
Give the lever a couple of squeezes to check all is still firm.
If you're careful and don't shake the hose around too much, no fluid will be lose so you won't need to bleed.
Do the other hose. Replace pads. Fit to bike. Ride. Check for leaks 🙂
Dez, muchas gracias fella. one thing, the posts above mention pushing in the pistons a bit... did you do that...??...
Mine should be arriving today... good times, although i am looking forward to is the NEUKUNDEN-GESCHENK i have on my order sheet.
I want the bowl, but the mug would get used more.
Good work DezB.
Am I the only one to have messed this up then? 😳 Spent *several* hours yesterday to end up with one "crunchy" brake and one very squidgy brake.
Not sure what causes the notchy feel - is that the normal feel of Shimano brakes? The squidgy brake was completely my fault though - it was on and working, if slightly soft. Then, without reading any instructions on what to do in such circumstances, I managed to lose quite a lot of fluid out of the system when trying to bleed them. Now need one of those yellow funnel things to do it properly, I guess.
[s]Worst thing is[/s], at least it was all on mrsbunks bike, I've still got to do mine!
[i]Dez, muchas gracias fella. one thing, the posts above mention pushing in the pistons a bit... did you do that...??...[/i]
The yellow spacer block did that. Its slightly narrower than pads & spacer so I gave the lever a squeeze before cutting the hose. That moved the pistons out a tad.
@thebunk - you might get away with just injecting some fluid into the calliper. Have you got a syringe? (btw, my oil funnel was delivered next day by CRC, haven't need it yet though)
I've got an avid bleed kit with some syringes. I've also got some Shimano brake fluid that came with a plastic tube. If I attach that to the calliper and undo the bleed hole at the lever might that push the air out at the lever? Should the pistons be out slightly when doing this, or doesn't it matter?
Cheers for the advice. Believe it or not, I can do most jobs on the bike, but brakes and me just don't get on...
Mine arrived today - no bowl or mug though 🙁
Got mine today. One thing to note is that I didn't get a rear IS mounting adaptor for mine so I had to re-use stuff I already had. I think most people have recevied a rear IS adaptor with theirs?? I also got two sets of olives and inserts despite ordering another set seperately, which was a bit of a waste of £4.
As DezB says, really easy to fit and swap the hoses over. I cut my hoses down and didn't bother with the burping technique as I never have done before, and they seem fine. Really powerful right from the off. Should be awesome once their bedded in.
Oh, and I did get a mug!
Nice one Dez.
I just swapped the levers over, but will want to shorten the hoses soon as they're massively long - that'll be a great help.
Mine are working great but biting quite close to handlebar - freestroke adjuster bolt doesn't seem to do much. Anyone made theirs bite earlier in stroke?
[i] Anyone made theirs bite earlier in stroke?[/i]
Going to try injecting some fluid into the calliper later. Will report back.
Since I missed out first time round due to some sort of credit card cock up, where is the best alternative for cheap XTs? Bike24? Anyone else have them in stock?
Fortunateson09, they still have SLX's which are essentially XT's but diff material and no free stroke. Thinking back I would have got them instead.
DezB/Chakaping: Take the wheel out, pump the lever once or twice, put the wheel back in. It will transfer some fluid from the resevoir to the line and you will have a closer bite. The free stroke is a very fiddly and small-scale adjustment.
Will try that thanks, should have remembered that was Formula's recommended fix for dodgy The Ones.
Mine arrived this afternoon, no cup or bowl just he yellow arm band thing (but what do you want for free).
Shortened the rear hose following DezB's instructions had a bit of a faff as i haven't got a vice to help with the insert but other than that straight forwared and it works fine.
Went for a quick spin and they feel fine need to get out and give them a proper run.
I put the yellow thing into a mole wrench, placed the edge of the yellow thing on a table, then tapped. Worked fine.
Sad thing is i was using a set of mole grips as i couldn't find a 8mm spanner, doh. Just held it and went for brute force and ignorance, took several minutes but it worked. 😳
Thanks for that dez, made it nice and simple.
Much prefer the shorter levers to my 770s, but still not sold on the looks.
Got mine today with a mug and 2 bags of sweets. I asked for some olives etc so they sent me 2 sets foc.
Just about to tackle the first hose swap and to fit them on my epic. Report back shortly!
Do you definitely need this funnel thing for bleeding? Bit of a pain in the arse if you do, CRC don't have them in for 2 weeks.
UPDATE:
Now showing that they'll have the black ones in stock in a week.
Have ordered some in the hope that this is true.
Done! Hoses chopped and swapped easily following the above instructions. Initial thoughts are very positive on a quick lap of the village. Modulation of Hope with the power of Elixirs works for me!
I know these are out of stock now 😥 but am going to put in a back order.
Just before hitting the order button, which rotors are people using with these?
Was going to try the Shimano XT RT76(6 bolt) rotors but have no issues in the past with Hope floating so not too sure which to go for.
I'm using mine with Hope floating rotors and mounts - VERY tight on the front with the thick Hope rivets but it just clears.
Hmm... mine were intended for Hope rotors....
Think I might nab some RT76s, have them on my other bikes, find them very good, and very quiet.
[i]Do you definitely need this funnel thing for bleeding?[/i]
I think you could do it the 'old fashioned' way without the funnel. ie. remove the reservoir cover completely and top up the reservoir. The funnel just appears to be a way to stop fluid spilling anywhere.
Had a quick go this morning - the bleed screw is a 2.5mm allen screw and the funnel screws into there - catches the fluid as you push it through with the syringe from the calliper end.
Formula rotors working fine here.
Thing that's making me think twice about the Hopes is that I'm selling my current Hope X2s complete so need new rotors anyway.
The price of the Shimano ones on Rose Bike seem like cracking value if they're good.
Got my bleed tool on Ebay. Turned up within a couple of days. Still says they've got five left as of this morning.
Re rotors, I bought some RT76's even though I'd just invested in some Hope Floating Rotors for the old M4's. Gotta say that the new set up is miles ahead of the M4's in terms of performance.
Anybody know how the Ice tech rotors are different to the RT76's? They look the same but are a lot spendier.
Not sure if Shimano do the Icetech rotors in a 6 bolt version (only centrelock).
Scratch that they are the RT86 6 bolt but not too sure what the difference is. at a guess the 3 layer constuction of the Icetech disperses heat better.
My order status is
Mon, 29/08/11 15:10 clock
Dorsten, DE
The overseas shipment was processed in the start-center package.
Tue, 30/08/11 00:16 clock
Cologne, DE
The international show was edited in the export package center.
Tue, 30/08/11 00:24 clock
Cologne, DE
The shipment is transported to the destination country.
Tue, 30/08/11 15:14 clock
-
The shipment arrived in the destination country.
Tue, 30/08/11 15:16 clock
-
The shipment has left the import-center package in the destination country.
Wed, 31/08/11 00:04 clock
-
The shipment is being prepared in the extra-depot for delivery.
Are they coming today????????????????? Please!!!!!!!
[i]which rotors are people using with these?[/i]
Avids here. Have always had Avid rotors with my XTR brakes, so keeping them on.
[url= http://www.ojbikes.com/shop/avid-g3-disc-rotor/ ]Cheap![/url]
I've clicked the LIKE tab on Facebook for Rosebikes but can't see where you have to go to get the discount code for 10euro off.
I am doing it through my mobile but thought it would be obvious.
Any clues?
Got a set of these, but can't decide whether to replace my Saints with them, or move them on.
Anone got any comparisons/feedback yet?
The facebook thing runs a little app, I doubt it will work on a phone.