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I am thinking of changing to 1x10 (from 3x10) to keep things as simple as possible.
Not too fussed about saving weight (there is an obvious source of excess weight on the bike that is easier/cheaper to deal with !)
I was just wondering what I can keep, and what I need to buy to do the swap over. I'll be going to my local bike shop later, but I just want an idea of what I actually [i]need[/i] before I go (as they will no doubt try and sell me more !)
I'm happy with the current middle ring size (32)
I'm looking for what parts I can re use, and what parts I need to buy really.
Just need some sort of chain device (superstar ones are £16), and maybe some shorter chainring bolts.
If you're happy with the current middle ring, then just remove granny and big rin, plust front mech/shifter.
You'll need some narrow chainring bolts lke those below, as your current ones are most likely too long for just one ring. Or bodge it with some washers.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=19227
After that - a chainguide of some sort. Superstar do a cheap one, didn't get on with it personally, but lots do. E13 & MRP make overpriced ones that work better (IMO), as below. Or you can use something with a top & bottom guide, like an E13 LG1/MRP G2/MRP Lopes/Straitline silent - all of which are even more insanely priced.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=47875
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=40904
What bike/frame is it?
A dedicated single chainring is a nice idea too, esp if you only have the top guide.
As above, shorter ring bolts and a chain device. Chain device choice will depend on whether you have ISCG (old or 05) mounts or not. There are lots of different systems, some full on and expensive and some cheap and rubbish. The Superstar one that mounts to the seat tube is apparently rubbish, but the BB mounted one works fine and would be all you need.
I use a Gamut on my FS bike and a Raidium thing on my hardtail. The Raidium mounts like an inner bashguard onto your granny ring tabs. You'd need an outer bashring for this to work though.
Thanks for the advice so far.
Should have mentioned. The bike is a 2011 Spec Stumpjumper FSR Comp.
Ok, for that frame, assuming it has the GXP external bottom bracket, you need a BB mount version of whatever guide you choose.
I would really suggest a dedicated non-ramped chainring - your existing one may cause the chain to keep coming off as it will be covered in shifting ramps and pins.
Or something that mounts to the direct mount points that the front mech uses. I think MRP or E13 have something but they look a bit meh.
The SS BB-mounted guide is your best bet, if you're on a budget.
The other top-only guides are £30+ and the top&bottom guides are £50 for the SS Plasma and then knocking on £100 for the others.
When I went 1x9 I just went for a dedicated 32t ring (Renthal on Soul, On One stainless on the BFe), SS top guides, and washers for the c/ring bolts. They occasionally drop a chain but it's not a big issue.
Does the 2011 Stumpy not have a low direct mount front mech?
If it does then id recommend an E13 XCX e-type/SRAM S3. Ive been running one on my rocky msl and its been faultless, sensible money too unlike the high direct mount or seattube mounted ones.
Ooh, that's nice! The other DM mount ones look rubbish with that bit of Meccano to attach to the frame.
v10 - Membersensible money too
£50 RRP for a plastic front mech without any moving parts.
I see your point but its sensible money in relation to alternatives.
Its less than half the price of most 'full guides'.
The seat-tube mounted version of the same guide is £90.
The BB mounted guides can have spacing/fitting issues especially with GXP chainsets and there is also the chance of rotation should you hit it.
I know what you're saying, just that chainguide pricing is one of my bugbears - there's so little to them, and such massive prices.
You're right about the seat-tube version, and it's virtually identical apart from clamping round the tube.
Get a stinger and n-gear jump stop, been running this combo on my Covert for 6 months and only dropped chain once.
I'll be going to my local bike shop later, but I just want an idea of what I actually need before I go (as they will no doubt try and sell me more !)
what you actually [i]need[/i] is a better LBS, i'd say.
If your chain ring bolts(well its actually the nuts rather than bolts?) are too long a hacksaw can make them shorter.
what you actually need is a better LBS, i'd say.
If shops didn't at least half try to up sell people, they would all close, and we would all be shopping exclusively online with no Local Shops at all.
I'm happy for them to try, they may even succeed, but just wanted to know the basics first.
Well, if you're thinking of getting an outer chainring guide/bashguard then you won't need the shorter chainring bolts.
I'd be tempted with a chainring guard/bash thingy and a jumpstop to try first before dropping a lot of money on fancier stuff.
I'm going the same way, but getting the truvativ x0 DH cranks and a chain guide. Such nice cranks I couldn't help it
If you do go with the £18 Superstar XCR guide it works fine once set up. Comes with some spacers, which is fine if you need to shim it inwards, but I had to shim mine outwards by putting a spacer behind the cage bit.