Thanks for the feedback on the paint.
Jameso -thanks for the info on the 2018 bikes.
I've gone ahead and ordered an Arkose 1!
Looking for a wheel upgrade from the stock 2017 arkose 3 wheels, anybody know the stock wheel weight.
I thought I'd keep this thread updated with my ongoing experiences - I used my Arkose X for the "Gold Rush Gravel Cross" event at the weekend, running on the 650b wheels and WTB Byways.
Apart from one particularly sloppy and rutted section, it all worked very well (the original fit 40c WTB Nanos would have been better for that bit, but I think most things would have struggled, given how muddy it was and how deep the ruts were), coping with some fairly rough off-road sections and having enough gears for the various up and downs on road. A thoroughly good morning out!
https://www.strava.com/activities/1231449446
Anyone have any opinions on the durability of the Arkose matte finish?
I've got a 2016 Arkose in Matte black.
Other than a bit of paint flaking off where the QRs clamp onto the drop outs, the only scuff I've got was due to it sliding down a metal lamp post - I'm not sure any paint finish could/would survive that.
So, yes, I think it is pretty durable.
Agreed - mine is holding up well. A few grease marks (mine is white!) but cleans up well and, with the exception of small sections on the dropouts, still looks good / almost as new.
Lime green with tan sidewalls looks a bit weird to me.
I think the colour is awesome but agree all black tyres and rims would look better.
save me trawling 25 pages, the arkose 3 review from Road.CC on page one says "35mm tyre but you could probably go bigger" anyone know how big? and does the arkose 4 have more clearance? what are the differences between the 3 and 4 apart from around £100 for the frameset?
you can go as far as 700x45 since MY 2017
I have a 2015 Arkose 4 and can fit 40c Nanos in it. Lots of mud and you get fork rub. Afaik the 2016 & 17 have more clearance. The LTD comes with Riddler 45c doesn't it? So 2018 greater again.
Cheers
Ooooh. That is nice. I find myself tempted by something with a little more clearance than my Pro6. Any ideas on the frame weight anyone? Or if you could persuade stealth dropper routing round the BB?
Is there anywhere you can demo these 'properly'? I know 'Evans' but I was largely assuming that would just be round the car park.
If you are at testing at the Gatwick store there is a bridleway that heads off just outside the car park, it’s basically a short farm track but it would be better than the car park. I think they might say don’t get it dirty but not sure. I don’t think the test rides a particularly time limited so you have time to get out of the carpark if you want 🙂
~1650g. Bear in mind I'm not a weenie so that's from memory of last time I weighed one. The Pyrolite frame is very similar, same tube spec apart from CS and slightly different butting, that's 1610g in L size for the laquered but no paint sample frame.Any ideas on the frame weight anyone?
there is a bridleway that heads off just outside the car park, it’s basically a short farm track but it would be better than the car park.
Be really careful there in the daytime - a lot of heavy-loaded trucks and loading going on there. I've seen those trucks going pretty fast in and out of that site as well as up and down the road outside, where people also ignore the double yellows. It's not a great road.
Full carbon fork on the 4 f/s. Frames are all the same spec though.what are the differences between the 3 and 4 apart from around £100 for the frameset?
Thanks jameso
Cheers Jameso
I'm not going to get hung up on 20g here or there but I'm not keen on adding a chunk of weight into the frame if I can avoid it, which I think is what the tripster AT would do compared to the pro 6. Actually, I just looked it up and it's (claimed) 1.42 up to 1.84kg. I suspect it adds the stiffness for riding hard with luggage but the pro6 is my road bike too and I'll keep weight off it where I can.
I notice the spec says three bottle cage mounts but I can't see them on the photos- am I looking in the right place under the downtube? Any hints on stealth routing- I've had a few crashes trying to ride something steep and slippery on the drops and the saddle has caught up with me!
Be really careful there in the daytime
I'm only up the road from Gatwick so it's where I'd go, thanks for the advice.
The photo samples used last year's frame as it's identical apart from the under DT bosses. Production bikes have them, they just needed ISO tests before production.
Stealth dropper routing not inc, would be a case of drilling out one of the gear cable guides to take a full outer if you're not going to use an FD, then route around BB casing/shell. It'd be tight but fine for a hydro hose.
Someone at work bought a new Tripster AT (Alu), frame was in the office the other day. 1910g in a Small. Suprised at that tbh.I'm not keen on adding a chunk of weight into the frame if I can avoid it, which I think is what the tripster AT would do compared to the pro 6.
The photo samples used last year's frame as it's identical apart from the under DT bosses.
Thanks
drilling out one of the gear cable guides
The holes are inner only then? Any pictures of how they exit under the bb? I wonder how easy it would be to 3D print a version of the classic under bb cable guide that would sit inside the be shell to take it round the axle sleeve.
1910g in a Small. Suprised at that tbh.
I was a bit disappointed as it's getting heavy enough to push it out of what I'm looking for. It's a shame because I quite like the look of it, the kinesis guys were very helpful and the short ride round the park I had on one seemed nice. I just know what that extra weight starts to do to a road bike- if I was looking for a rough duty tourer/tough cx bike primarily I think it'd be pretty on the money.
I think they said it was basically the downtube off the old FF29, which may give some clue as to construction/intent.
Any pictures of how they exit under the bb?
Not to hand sorry, it's an open port between DT and BB shell, to a std cable guide under the BB. See comments above / earlier about the level of doddle in replacing them.
Yep, near as dammit arrangement (not for the front mech though).
I'm struggling to find a cheap wheelset for this stupid 12x100 axle
any idea?
should I go with adapters instead?
should I go with adapters instead?
The good thing about a 12mm fork is you can space down a 15mm XC 29er front wheel if the adapters are available.
@ JamesO
Ive just received an arkose 3 2017 frame set (the red/orange one)
Looks pretty nice, smoothed welds and sort of cowled drop outs.
My main concern now is that the fork (aluminum steer tube) feels a bit hefty in the hand. Dont suppose you know how much lighter the all carbon fork on the 2017 arkose 4 is?
Do you think there is any chance evans would swap just the fork for me. maybe for some sur charge?
cheers
Can anyone with a newer arkose post some pics of the down tube entry ports for the internal cable routing?
Thanks!
A
Does the newer one have a thru axle for the rear wheel?
wilburt
No, just the front.Does the newer one have a thru axle for the rear wheel?
lifecycl3
Probably not as a red fork on it's own isn't worth a lot as a resale but if the frame's not built up, pop it back in the box and swap it for the Arkose 4 frame that has the full carbon fork. It's about 450g vs 700ish iirc for the Al steerer version.Do you think there is any chance evans would swap just the fork for me. maybe for some sur charge?
Having actually done a bit of reading now, this sounds a bit unlikely.
Anyone have 30/32mm road tyres and guards? You mind sharing a photo?
Don't fancy massive/wide guards as will be 70% road duties and unsure how well narrow guards would fit in the mahoosive forks.
Very tempted by the 2017 4.
Sandwicheater, I've emailed you a picture. 🙂
Thanks johnnystorm, reckon I'll got for it. Cheers
Is James Olsen still hanging around this thread? If so- strange question for you. Having an recurring issue with fitting the rear wheel of my 2017 Arkose 2. Its really hard to fully seat into the dropouts- I have to remove the skewer, rest the wheel on the dropouts and physically pull them apart for the wheel to drop in. Entirely possibly I'm being incompetent and doing something wrong but I've never had this problem across a dozen other bikes yet it happens every time I remove the rear wheel of the Arkose. Have you ever come across this before?
Cheers
Does anyone know the weight of the 2016 arkose 4 frame or frameset. I looked on evans website but there is conflicting information. Thanks
XL frame, headset, seat clamp 1730 gms. XL forks with maxle 510 gms (kitchen scales....)
Finally cracked and bought one of the new arkose 4’s...took it for its first decent ride yesterday, absolutely love it. Turns out disc brakes and wider tyres can make riding awful roads in the pissing rain quite fun. Might get a 44 or 46t chainring for the front...then I just need to get it set up tubeless!
Question for any 2017/2018 owners - what mudguards are good on these frames with wide tyres? Running the stock riddlers atm but have ordered some 40c g one speeds so looking for something that’ll cover those.
Oh and props to my local Evans for giving me BC discount. First time using evans and I was a bit nervous straying away from LBS but so far so good...
Hi, I have just signed up to this forum so that I could do to this post.
I have just bought a Pinnacle Arkose 2 frameset, 2016. So far liking the look of it, having just built it up the other day. Not ridden it yet though. I am not sure if a crown race needs to be fittted to the forks though, as there appears to be a visible gap between the forks and the frame. Can anyone look at their arkose and advise? None of my other road bikes have such a visible gap.
thanks, Paul
Does the fork look like it has a built in bearing seat at the right angle??
I think if you put a crown race on that wasn't meant to be there, then the gap would be much bigger than what your photo shows, it just wouldn't sit on the crown of the fork.
From what I remember, my 2014 version with carbon steerer had a crown race
Missed a few here recently -
@pclayto - They all use a crown race yes, looks normal, there's usually around 2mm gap there. What headset did you use? Might be worth checking the race is seated evenly all the way down but it looks fine from the photo.
@rdmp2 - Yep, just hadn't seen the thread bumped up in recent weeks sorry. Sounds like it's worth checking the dropout spacing or alignment, the shop can do that for you. If it's out, sorry for the faff but we can get it sorted for you, the guys at the shop will advise.
Thanks for the response, James. I will drop the forks out later and have a look. I didn't inspect it too much, I used the headset bearing that came with the frameset from Evans cycles.
I took the bike out for a quick 300 yard test, and it all seemed fine. I'm impressed, and loving the colour.
For info, I went with the XL, and I am 188cm (6ft2).
Thanks James, will do.
FWIW your willingness to contribute to this thread was a major factor in buying my Arkose!
I’m going to buy an Arkose in cycle to work but I am torn between the 3 and 4
i prefer the luminous colour of the 4 for visibility and less likely to get stolen.
How does the SRAM groupset stacknup against 105? I’m used to ultegra so makes me a bit nervous.
Any other differences between the two?
What is it about the Arkose frame that makes it suitable for 650b wheels? The BB drop at 76mm is 6mm lower than similar bikes such as the Planet X offerings, which I thought would make pedal strikes more likely?
What is it about the Arkose frame that makes it suitable for 650b wheels?
Nothing more than any other frame with the clearance, tbh. The layout and geo suits a more capable tyre but the Pyrolite is also a great bike on 650B and that's a more road-going geometry.
BB drop - 70mm BB drop is common spec for a road race bike on 700 x 23mm tyres with an OD of about 670mm. A 700 x 32 or 650B x 47 will be ~685mm. The Arkose increases BB drop to keep the BB at about the same height while the wheel gets a bit bigger.
Assumption is that we need higher BBs for off-road use, but enough clearance for quite rooty singletrack would compromise road and gravel cornering and general handling for a drop bar bike imo. Road race spec or ISO lean angle regulations also assume pedalling round corners - who does that outside a crit race? On a CX race course the off-cambers might justify a 5-8mm BB raise over road bike spec but ime a low-ish BB is a benefit more of the time. And it's only ~6mm lower - not a big difference.
Hopefully a really quick question:
Will I get a set of G-One Tubeless tyres to seat OK on my Alex ATD-490 32H rims on my 2015 Arkose 4 (I've got an Airshot)?
I'm still running the 35c Small Block 8's it comes with as standard (on my second or third set) - could I squeeze a set of 38c G-ones in the frame?
Thanks


