MegaSack DRAW - This year's winner is user - rgwb
We will be in touch
I have two bikes with an EBB, a Stooge with the type that has two bolts going into the bottom of the BB shell holding the EBB in place, which has been fine, but second bike is Charge Grinduro (plus with clearance 700x40 CV tyres), this has a perfectly smooth BB shell and the EBB is of a type where you have a small bolt on the side, as this is done up either side of the EBB is essentially an expanding wedge, so you have a perfectly smooth EBB trying to grip smooth BB shell of the frame.
Unfortunately this is constantly slipping to the point where on a muddy ride last week, the whole EBB has slip to the right and the left hand crank has taken a huge gouge out of itself and the frame.
The trouble is the bolt is made of really soft alloy, so scared to torque it up too high, i have tried a good dose of copper slip and after 2-3 rides it just slips again.
Any suggestions as to how to keep this one from slipping?
Or a suitable upgrade that works differently? (noticed that the Niner Biocentric doesn't seem available anywhere)
Thanks
I meant to say yesterday but I have used carbon paste to good effect albeit on a seat post with a similar setup to the EBB you describe.
Also maybe worth changing the bolt for steel?
Failing that speak to Rideworks
Cheers Mark (and thanks again for the wheel)
All I can say is I have never got on with expanding wedge EBBs.
Ebb's. Such a great thing but such a pain also. I have had a few on my single speeds and got the better of them all eventually. When you remove the whole ebb unit how much clearance/play is there between the shell and ebb? If it is a baggy fit then that won't help. Bikeman(Carver) in America does a good sleeved ebb unit that is easily shimmed to fit snug before tightening.
The other thing and probably most likely is that the shell is deformed. What happens is that when the frame is welded on manufacture the weld areas on the chainstays, down tube and seat tube deform the shell very slightly. Higher end frame's are machined out after welding. Lower end frames are not. The ebb tightens on these high spots then rocks from side to side with the pedaling motion slowly loosening. A good machine shop should be able to whip a thou or two out to make it good, then paired with a shim it will be creak/slippage free.
The best EBB are the ones used on the Sanderson Soloist.
Nothing moves. Nothing creaks. I took this out of a frame for the first time in 8 years. Still had the grease on it and looking like new. It won't be the cheap option for manufacturers but it's the best on the market by far.
rents' suggestion seems reasonable. Also, if the EBB is not a Bushnell, maybe that would be an upgrade.
Nothing moves.
Except for the cranks - they move up-down, left-right, and front-back during adjustment. Full 3D!
I have the same problem with a charge grater, I thought the crank was going to fall out today it moved so much to the drive side. Was going to contact charge but not sure I will get anywhere
I think i will need a new ebb as it must be worn due to so much worn
I have a carver ebb (with a ti bolt upgrade) it's been rock solid and I'm a big unit.
I suspect part of that might be due to the small bit of overspray in the ebb area when I got it powder coated with bench cover.
I dunno if this helps you in any way.
Thanks all, will have a look at the Carver and Bushnell.
I really like the way the Charge Grinduro rides and the TRP hydraulic brakes have been ace, but whole bike is now going back to Wiggle, the freewheel went within 200 miles, and the chainring, chain, rear hub and the EBB have all gone or worn terrible within 400 miles, the parts seem to be made of cheese.