So installed a set of old Truativ cranks (from a Scandal) to a bike with BB92 (yeti ARC) . Followed instructions and double checked everything correct spacers etc. , but cranks are very stiff (will not rotate freely) thoughts on where I've cocked it up?
How many spacers do you have on the DS of the axle?
Did you reset the preload collar on the NDS?
Edit. If it has one... Looking at your new bike pics, I'm guessing it doesn't!
Check frame BB for correct alignment and facing.
Big axle in small frame aperture equals low tolerance for misalignment and binding/under rotation.
How many spacers do you have on the DS of the axle?
one 4.5mm as per frame manufacturers instruction.
Did you reset the preload collar on the NDS?
Yes, wound fully off, Doesn't need any slack taken up! (obvs)
Check frame BB for correct alignment and facing.
How do I do that? - not a sarcastic comment, I've built it at home, I don't have access to the sorts of tools I'd need to check those things, but 'm guessing it's within tolerance (yeti frame)
That covers it pretty well. Don't make the mistake that because its a premium brand the QA is bomb proof.
Thanks @scienceofficer I'll have a watch of that. Interestingly just checked SRAM installation .pdf and they want a 2mm spacer on the drive side...
Sounds like a spacer issue.
@devash, yes you've nailed it I think...So, advised by Yeti that it needs 4mm DS spacer, the ones supplied in the box are 2mm and 4.5mm. I've installed the 4.5mm (didn't realise) and SRAM on their tech spec suggest 2mm on the drive side. so there's just too much spacer on the DS regardless, will try 2 and then double up if I need to.
If you use the 2mm on the DS can you then not take up the slack on the NDS with the adjuster?
I guess it would depend on whether the chainring clears the frame enough and you're happy with the chainline.
Yes probably, that's what I'll try tonight, I'm pretty sure there's just too much spacer on the DS
That's why I asked about spacers. Even with defined standards, you often find that the instructions are wrong and require a bit of trial and error. Glad you've (potentially) got it sorted.
The annoying aspect of that is that it assumes everyone's BBs are of a standard. Some manufactures have dustcaps on seals which add some thickness, others have a very slightly different bearing>spacer interface which is wider than you'd expect. If the crank has a collar adjuster, it's usually fine, but not always. BB386EVO is a nightmare for this.
Yes, It's a bit of a minefield. Plus also means I need to rustle up a couple of spare DUB spacers...I know I've got a couple of 2mm spacers...I wonder where they are...Haha
I had to order one off ebay cos I couldn't find the 2mm one I knew I had, cost about 4 damn quid!
Seemed to be the only source of them without buying a new BB (or a kit of all the spacers, I suppose)
Fitted 2mm and all is perfect. thanks for all your help everyone.
SO belated thread hijack - couldn't find a relevant thread on search that wasn't closed.
My SRAM DUB BB is gritty, so i have done what i done last time, and bought a new SRAM DUB BB (other threads say i am daft doing this, but got 1300km out of this one, so not outrageously bad, and the previous was 3800km)
But the crank bolt is torqued up proper tight, and just wondering what everyone's magic fix for that is. Am i doing some strange inner tube winding round wrench and crank, cooling the bolt to reduce size, or is there something i am missing? Am i going to spend tomorrow swearing and skinning my knuckles
TIA everyone
Don't make the mistake that because its a premium brand the QA is bomb proof.
Yeti and QA are pretty distant relatives at the best of times
done mine a few times... i always just use a breaker bar and decent Allen key bit, stand on NDS pedal and give the bar a bit of a shove... However.. there is also the possibility its seized... that has happened to a few people i know
I use a big old torque wrench as a breaker bar effectively (I don’t need it use it as a torque wrench anymore) with a 1/2” drive Allen key bit in it. Stands on the pedal and push on the breaker bar.
When I put any cranks on I’m pretty liberal with copper slip grease and haven’t ever had an issue. But they can get quite tight. Imagine if there’s no grease used when put together it could be a shocker to get apart - I think the bolt thing is alloy too which isn’t great.
I had to cut one out once. Was not happy. Then when I took the crank out, the axle was so worn it couldn't be reused. Back to shimano for me after that!
Thanks guys, the big breaker bar/long torque wrench worked, plus black and decker tool box - based on the principle here to gain enough traction:
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/spQLj_vf8Ss
But the crank bolt is torqued up proper tight, and just wondering what everyone's magic fix for that is
Socket hex bit in the bolt then about 1m alloy tube extending the handle. On the NDS I slide a rod into the hollow axle then use another 1m ish length of 2x2 braced between pedal and rod. Then just pull the DS lever and push the NDS and so far it's come undone easily.
Just needed to be a bit braver, seemed a little tougher than last time, but all went well. I use Weldtite Lithium grease instead of copperslip and it wasn't so scary after all. A little asymmetric wear on the crank axle NDS, i wonder if I hadn't tightened the pre-load collar enough, it was happy to go an extra quarter turn today.