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cheers trout, will send across now
yea i had guessed that. doesnt matter too much, as long as its here soon(ish) haha. will add my username to the payment details.
just striped down a 'dead' laptop battery i was given at work and all cells were between 3.92 and 3.94 volts. i haven't ordered a charger yet, so can't test any further
So after connecting up the battery the wrong way and everything looking dead. What is post likely to have died on me?
My leds, or driver?
I think the driver doesn't have polarity protection if I remember correctly. Not sure if the badness would have made it as far as the leds and if they would be damaged too.
The driver will have gone - they are not tolerant of reverse connection of power I'm afraid. Next batch I'm going to have to add this as I've found a way to do it with minimal losses. Only problem is I've got a few hundred of these to get through first...
It is unlikely to have reached the LEDs but not impossible. The LED+ is near enough the power + (only a low value resistor between them). The LED- should only go live when the driver IC starts switching which it won't have done with power the wrong way but it depends what internal damage it has done to the IC. Or if you happen to have a LED short to the case.
As I've suggested before, and easy and safe way to test power LEDs is a PP3, preferably a really cheap one, direct across the LED. They can't source enough current to do any damage but I wouldn't do it for long, just enough to test it still works.
Package has turned up, thanks Troutie 🙂
Thanks trout,package arrived today.
Time to re-read the thread and get cracking.
ah well.
I will figure out how I'm going to dig open the case and get to the driver I smothered in silicon.
Last question before i get started,what is the best glue to use to stick the driver to the ali heatsink/heatsink to hammond box.
Piker - Arctic Alumina Adhesive
Thanks bobblehat, on the bottom of the new driver i have there are 5 small holes that show metal,will they short out on the ali heatsink or is it not a problem.
piker I used some car touch up paint on the exposed connections on the back before I glued the driver on to the aluminium. HTH
Happy Xmas & happy new year to all you fellow builders! 
I used the AAA directly on the board ... it's non-conductive and non-capacitive. The AAA layer, even if very thin, will insulate the board from the small piece of aluminium. I think the exposed metal is actually minutely recessed as the solder mask covers all but those exposed bits.
Did you get a case with solid plastic ends or metal ends with plastic bezel? I think you'll be OK with using AAA to stick the little ali plate to either.
If you got the new-type power connector as well (I think you did) then there is less of a problem with electrical shorts through a metal backplate as the body is now plastic. The original power connectors I supplied had a metal body so of course the backplate (and in theory the whole case) was live. There may still be a problem if there are any shorts on the LED connections to the case but as bobble says AAA is insulative so you shouldn't need to worry.
Best check on the size of the mounting plate, as the connections are now on both sides of the board make sure you don't short between them.
Thanks for the advice,i have trimmed the plate a bit so the end connections dont short.Was just bothered about the holes underneath.
Can normal 2 part epoxy adhesive be used for the driver,AAA is expensive considering i only need a tiny bit and i have epoxy to hand.
Bigjim: is [url= http://www.mountainwarehouse.com/travel/backpacks/mini-5l-10l/combi-pocket-p2866.aspx ]THIS[/url] the case your using for your batteries, did the velcro strap come with it?
Epoxy not ideal as it starts to soften when you get over about 50-60C. Also heat transfer to the block will be minimal. That said, the new driver runs cooler anyway so not such an issue but it is always good to reduce the temperature as far as possible.
If you are using AAA to mount your LEDs then do the driver at the same time. If you've already done the LEDs or are using thermal paste and screws then you would probably get away with epoxy or a contact adhesive.
Bite the bullet piker ...... get the AAA .... you'll probably need some for your next build as well! ..........
........... Oh! Yes! There will be a next build 😈
I have used silicon for the driver with no adverse effects in a few lights and still working fine .
all recieved cheers folks.
Wah! Hoo! The posts are back again! 🙂
Thank god its back ... I thought my build instructions had vanished!
managed to finally finish off my MK2 triple hammond yesterday.. 😆
2 cool white XPG using regina reflectors, and a single warm white (i think its warm anyway..) XPG through an oval optic to give a bit of spread and less of a cold beam in the foreground..
first ride with it tomorrow.. cant wait! 8)
thanks to trout and Blackcattech for the parts / inspiration!
MK3 and 4 are already being planned with some triple XPG boards... 😯
What optic did you use spacehopper? Very keen to get one of my 2 leds through a more floody optic than the regina reflector - get a bit more light around the foreground.
[url= http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut941 ]Oval Optic[/url]
the Oval version of one of these.. i got it from Farnell though but cant find it on there now.....!
i think there is a newer/better version out though which is on the farnell site..
[url= http://uk.farnell.com/ledil/ca11365-laura-o-xp-tape/cree-xpe-g-optic-holder-oval/dp/1848285 ]Newer Laura Oval Optic on Farnell[/url] 🙂
Cool thanks. I take it you used a larger box to get the three and that bigger optic in? I'd be interested in seeing some pics of that, and beamshots!
Is there a minimum order at Farnells?
pics of the light... this is Mark 2..!
[url= http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5283/5343198547_2f0321bb35.jp g" target="_blank">
[url= http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5162/5343198863_4436df1aa9.jp g" target="_blank">
[url= http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5281/5343808132_d3500c9dd1.jp g" target="_blank">
not the prettiest of things.. reminds me of Number 5 from Short circuit..
It was going to have a piece of plastic or something in front of the clear perspex front to make the front look neater but found they interfered with the beam when next to the reflectors..
shifted the heatsink upwards in the case too to the top as when the LEDS where at the bottom the bottom of the case it cut off part of the beam and stopped the light shining downwards to where the front wheel is..
oh.. and if you do use one of the oval / laura type optics they are about 2mm shorter than a regina reflector... so i cut a square of aluminium to put behind the LED and space it to the same level at the front. So as not to block the periphery of the oval beam being blocked by the Regina's either side..
will take some beamshots tomorrow night and post them on here if i remember! 8)
and yes there is a minimum order of £20 at Farnell..
its pretty near to where My other half lives in Leeds though so i might pop in over the weekend as ive seen big billboards advertising a trade counter and see if i can pick up some of the new Laura Optics and see if they are any better..
troutie, did you receive my email?
test ride last night.. 🙂
[url= http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5005/5346613921_6c75d7b1dd.jp g" target="_blank">
Beamshots.. all @ 970Ma
Camera Fuji F31FD 3 second exposure 2.8 aperture Iso 100
2 Reginas + Oval Optic...
[url= http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5008/5346610467_b3dc7410b1.jp g" target="_blank">
2 Reginas
[url= http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5085/5346610265_cdd31b7c5c.jp g" target="_blank">
Just the Oval Optic..
[url= http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5045/5346609969_185e9160ce.jp g" target="_blank">
20 Watt Philips Masterline Halogen @ 14 Volts for comparison
[url= http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5121/5346609801_2489e76a11.jp g" target="_blank">
looks a bit more floody in the pictures than in real life..
Hopefully Mark 3 with a 20mm triple XPG and floody optic in the centre in place of the Oval will improve this a bit.. 🙂
Thanks spacehopper. Its quite hard to tell if the oval optic is doing a good job. Do you think with one regina and one oval there would be too much of a loss of forward throw, and is there enough flood around the front wheel to justify it do you think?
Are you going to be running 2 drivers for the x3 and 2 seperate leds?
its doing an ok job as far as my eyes could tell.. just filled in a bit more detail on the edges of the beam and made it a bit less of a hard edge to the beam.. though the colour of the LED (warm white as opposed to cool) made the most difference.. making the light feel more natural.
If its only a double i wouldnt bother with an oval to be honest as youd lose a fair bit of the throw.. and one thing it doesnt do really is provide anymore illumination around the front wheel
The oval optic is a 5 degree vertical beam (same as the regina) and 21 degree wide.. id maybe try a wide or medium ledil optic.. or try a reflective hood over the LEDS to reflect light downwards.. (something i also plan to try..)
one thing that did dawn on me while looking at the pattern the light made on my desk was that having the 2 regina reflectors spaced at either end of the three LEDS and 20mm or so further apart than they would be in the smaller hammond case created a broader beam spread and thus slightly less of a narrow spot
and yes i plan to run it with 2 drivers.. 🙂 im going to get a couple of b2flex drivers from taskled.. one will go in this light, so i can up the power to 1.5amps..! 👿
and then use a b2flex on the triple and the 1 amp teapot driver for the 2 regina spots.. in the mark 3!
Jammy yes I have your mail Just resurfacing from the dreaded flu
Bloody post office I will send you some more and try and claim from the PO
Good to see there is a lot of activity on here still I have lost count of how many of these lights there must be now .
If you want a bit more spill from your light get some Ledil Laura optics need a bit of trimming slightly but throw nearly as well as the regina without that hard cutoff at the edges
cheers troutie. if you don't have a proof of postage then get one with the parts you send out now and claim off that one instead, and you are more than welcome to exaggerate the cost of the parts as they deserve it with the complete hash they have made of the post this crimbo.
Finally got round to finishing this light build,thanks trout and bct for your help.
And it works off my drill battery.
Now this will be my last question,is this battery suitable and how long would it last.
Is there a better option available for the price.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Portable-12V-li-ion-Rechargeable-Battery-Pack-9800mAh-/120472040107?pt=UK_ConsumerElectronics_Batteries_SM&hash=item1c0cb172ab
nice build piker 🙂
cant get on ebay at work.. but looking at the link if the battery is an actual 9800mah it should run for at least 9 hours on high with your light.. it might be a bit bulky though..!
Ive built my own battery out of Nimh rechargeables but everyone recommends smudge... 🙂
[url= http://www.mtbbatteries.co.uk/ ]Smudge - Mtbbatteries.co.uk[/url]
OK so the battery linked to is a bit overkill,just trying to get set up as cheap as i can.Only need battery to last for about 3hrs max.Just cant afford to spend £60+ for a battery and charger.
Is this a better option,how long would it last.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Powerful-12V-li-ion-Rechargeable-Battery-Pack-4800-mAh-/170547980937?pt=UK_ConsumerElectronics_Batteries_SM&hash=item27b573aa89
battery holders and a few 18650's off ebay will set you back less than £20. You just need to figure out someway of waterproofing them. Im planning on putting mine in a water bottle with the cable coming out of the mouthpiece...
OK so the battery linked to is a bit overkill,just trying to get set up as cheap as i can.Only need battery to last for about 3hrs max.Just cant afford to spend £60+ for a battery and charger.
Is this a better option,how long would it last.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Powerful-12V-li-ion-Rechargeable-Battery-Pack-4800-mAh-/170547980937?pt=UK_ConsumerElectronics_Batteries_SM&hash=item27b573aa89
I have one of those. I've only used it a couple of times for under an hour a time so don't know if they have the capacity they claim, but seems OK so far. Very cheap. Not sure what your build draws but if the 9600 would be good for 9 hours, that would do 4.5. They don't deliver 12v for the bulk of their discharge curve by-the-way, but 11.1v (no idea if that makes any odds to your setup).
Sorry for the late reply on this. I've got the 4800mAh version of that battery, works well for what I do with it. I had two of the 1.8Ah versions which I've been using for a couple of years. The charger on those went (exploded actually...) so I got the higher capacity version.
I'd be surprised if the run-time is as quoted, I only seemed to get maybe 3-4 hours of light from 2x 300mA LEDs which is less than expected. I've not yet used the light enough to run the 4800mAh battery down.
One possible problem, I found I couldn't use the 1800mAh ones to test the 970mA drivers even with a single LED as the power drain was too much for the battery - kept triggering the short circuit protection. Not tried to see how much the higher capacity one can give out.
So i would be ok with the 4800mah set up,i will only need 2.5 - 3 hrs use.
You're on a budget .... yeah?
Got 8 NiMH AA's laying around? Already got AA charger? That would be cheap ..... get an 8 AA holder and with 2500 NiMh's you've got 3+ hours on full 970mA. 8 x Eneloops give about 2.6 hours. 8 good top rank AA's maybe 3.5 hours.
Buying from new ... I can highly recommend ....
8AA Holder - Maplin - £1.29
8 x Eneloop AA 2000mAH - 7Dayshop - £12.98 inc p+p and free cases
or
8 x Goodtogo 2100mAH LSD - 7Dayshop - £8.78 inc p+p and free cases
or
8 x Vapextech 2900mAH standard NiMH - Vapextech.co.uk - £11.45 inc p+p and free case
Just a very good working alternative to the 18650 route!
4x these: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2-UltraFire-3000mAh-18650-Protected-Li-ion-Battery-/110576073884?pt=UK_ConsumerElectronics_Batteries_SM&hash=item19bed8fc9c#ht_1315wt_907
(they accepted an offer of £12 for 4 batteries when i bought them)
A 4x 18650 holder from BCT (if he has some left still) for a couple of quid.
Chop the holder in half, add a few bits of wiring etc to run the batteries in series. Stick the resulting product in a water bottle with the cable of your choice coming out of the mouthpiece through a drilled hole. (Tesco value water bottle for £1.25 worked perfectly for me). Pad out the space with bubblewrap to stop the batteries shaking about inside.
bobs your uncle 😉
EDIT: you'll want a [url= http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Trustfire-TR-001-dual-rapid-charger-18650-batteries-/300510632858?pt=UK_ConsumerElectronics_Batteries_SM&hash=item45f7d45b9a#ht_1803wt_1141 ]charger[/url] as well
Thanks for all your help,gone down the route suggested by bobblehat and gone for a 8x AA battery holder and duracell 2450mAh rechargeable AA batteries.
Gone for a long AA holder thats 4x sticks of 2 batteries,should fit in a wide neck bottle.
Trout kit £20
BCT kit £9
maplin box£9
Battery holder and pp3 clip £3.79
8x AA duracell 2450mAh batteries £8.75
Total £50.54
A bit more if battery charger needed but i already have that.
How addictive is this,next winter this lamp will be on my helmet and something more powerful on my bars,not that i need more power but like i say it is addictive.