in all the years i have been riding (over 40 plus) i am embarrassed to say that i still don't know what saddle is comfy for my rear.
there have been comfy saddles that i have had but equally not comfy ones too. unfortunately, i cannot remember the make of the comfy ones.
i would like to get a comfy saddle for my chisel fs as the specialized power one that came with the bike just isn't comfy after a few hours of riding so much so that i have to stand up more (could be partly due to me not riding regularly as well).
is it worth going for a size fitting (am thinking total fitness in bath). as they would be able to pinpoint what size and shape would be comfy am guessing.
i do like the 3d printed saddles that are out now but i don't want to spend a lot of money if the saddle is not comfy for us.
thanks in advance 🙂
Can you remember the shape of the comfy ones you have had in the past. I have had saddles that would be painful after an hour or so and it is crap.
I know now to only buy WTB Rocket saddles in wide but everyone is different and there are so many to choose from. That said I also think our bum shape can change with age, I used to like a Charge Spoon but they now fall into the 1 hour pain category for me.
A combination of what shape of saddle has worked for you plus a sit bone measurement might get you something that works.
Basically, trial and error, sadly, but it helps to be methodical. What is it specifically that hurts on the Power?
I was having a miserable time early winter with saddle discomfort, mainly on my road bikes with Fizik Antares saddles which had worked well for me for the longest while.
With some help from videos by Douglas Shaw/ Edinburgh Bike Fitter, I gradually realised what it was about the shape that didn't work for me, they transitioned from wide to narrow too abruptly, and my sitbones were looking for a middle zone that wasn't there. Lack of width in the 'transition' meant my sitbones weren't supported so I was rocking side to side and causing lots of discomfort.
Going for more triangular/ tapered saddles helped this, and it just became an exercise in finding the right taper. The Specialized Power was OK for me but still got too narrow too soon, so the rocking issue persisted and I still got sore. Going for too wide a saddle can have a similar effect, the extra width sort of pushes you forwards until you run out of useable width for your site bones, I've actually gone narrower which seems to work better.
Bontrager Aeolus, Selle Italia Novus and San Marco Aspide all narrowed nice and gradually and had wider noses, providing more support, less rocking, more comfort.
For me, the front-to-back 'wave' is also important, I didn't get on with e.g. a Selle Italia SLR because it has more of a kick up at the rear, basically forms a sort of dip where it wants your sitbones to be. That's all well and good if the dip suits the curve of your sitbones and if you don't like to move around on the saddle, but I do, so half the time I was fighting the saddle unless I just sat still. I found this with e.g. a San Marco Allroad and Specialized Power Arc as well, if it's too ergonomic it just doesn't work for me.
Went through loads, all of the ones recommended by others and then settled on a spesh power saddle. Afraid thats not much help other than what others have said, its trial and error!
If you've tried numerous traditional shaped saddles, but haven't tried a Selle SMP variant, try one. You're supported between the two peaks instead of a majority going through your sit bone points towards rear of saddle, the drop between the peaks is critical to individual, but typically ~11mm iirc.
I found the SDG Bel Air works for me brilliantly on a mountain bike, but is never quite right on my crosscheck. It's ok, but not as good in that position. I went through trying a lot of different ones over the years. The worst by far was a brooks b17 i think. Never have i felt such crushing pain on my tubes no matter how it was set up.
SDG BelAir.
I loved my V3. Up there (oo'er) with the Charge Spoon and Fabric Scoop.
I was all set to buy another V3 to replace the Fizik Terra Ridon X5 on my new bike, but I'm actually getting on with that quite well... at least I never think about it on a ride which is a good sign (more time seated on ebikes too, so I'd notice it if it was shite).
Always meant to try a WTB Volt too, as everyone who has them seems to love them.
Bike fitters need money though, so do that.
I buy a bike. Always seems like when I buy a complete bike, the saddle is perfect. If I try to buy aftermarket, or replace a worn out saddle, they are invariably uncomfortable... Not sure how helpful that is 😀
I'm going to go against the grain here. It's not about the component itself, it's about the bike fit.
Preparing for my big ride last year, I spent loads of time on the bike getting my saddle, handlebars and grips in exactly the right position. Lots of riding means lots of miniscule fettling. Small position changes make a massive difference. Bar width and reach impacts on saddle comfort as much as does saddle height, fore and aft, and tilt.
I really think that when people replace saddles, often they just accidentally get it in the right position, and then think that it's the saddle that's comfortable not the position.
Until recently I was convinced that the narrower (sub 142mm) saddles suited my rear best ( think Flite Titanium) but a quick blast on a friend bike who had a ~160mm saddle has made me question everything 🤣 🤣 🤣
The wider one was a fancy 3d one so it may have been the materials rather than the profile.
I think the answer is just keep buying saddles ... I have so many now it's embarrassing.
I think the answer is just keep buying saddles ... I have so many now it's embarrassing.
I don't think you're alone in that. Maybe someone should organise a STW Saddle Swap Shop.
I don't think you're alone in that. Maybe someone should organise a STW Saddle Swap Shop.
A saddle library would be useful. What I find frustrating is I know exactly what works for me, a Fabric Scoop Radius in 142mm on the road bike and in 155mm a mountain bike but I'd really like to try something that works as well that has a cut out.
There used to be some manufacturers who did test saddles, but I think that’s probably gone. I’ve recently used the wtb sizing guide and it came out wide! I would have naturally gone narrow, but it feels fine so far!
but as stated above it’s mainly trial and error, but sizing of sit bones may help narrow it down a bit
WTB Rockets, SDG (came on the Capra Core 4) and the Strange (came on my Orange Stage Evo) all work well for me. Best of all are a Sonder Zone (133mm) and a 3D printed Ryet (Aliexpress) which is super comfy but no fun if I am not wearing padded liners.
Worst of all is the WTB Speed V which, it appears, is too soft and shaped with a dip for the sit bones compared to the others above.
I did sit on some foil/cardboard to get an understanding of my sit bones width.
" unfortunately, i cannot remember the make of the comfy ones. "
Once you find a comfy one buy several.
IME the main variations are shape, width, and amount of cushioning. What mix works will depend on your riding position as well. Apparently if you ride with bars below the saddle you may need a narrower saddle.
I find with a fairly upright position, bars level with saddle I need a 175mm width which dratically narrows the field. Sounds very wide but I'm 6ft3 so partly riding position, partly big frame.
I like a flat shaped top and a bit of cushioning.Too much cushioning is bad as you end up bearing weight on soft tissue not sit bones.
I found a Specialized Sonoma in 175 width was perfect. After they went out of production I bought any that came up on Ebay and have one on each bike plus 3 or 4 hanging up in the shed.
Basically, trial and error, sadly, but it helps to be methodical
This. I think it worth having your sit bones measured - quite a few shops have a memory foam pad thing from one of the manufacturers that gives you that measurement.
Then trial and error. eBay is your friend on this - there are loads of people who try a saddle and hate it, or get one with a new bike that isn't what they like. Buy a few 'like new' saddles and try them out. You should get your money back less eBay fees. Then when you find something that works for you put one or two in stock when you see them discounted
I ride a selle SLR on all my bikes in some form, except the Brompton - because it's so much more upright I want a different shape on there.
Width, length and scoop define a saddle. I have narrow sit bones and like a narrow 135-140 saddle. I move around a lot on a road bike so like an Arione more than the shorter saddles du jour that lock you into one position. As for scoop, a Flite Ti original has the same scoop as a Brooks B17 narrow and a Fizik Aliante. If you like to sit “in” not on, and have a more upright position, this shape is better than flat.
To be honest, I can ride anything, first ride on my 3d printed sworks Power saddle was a 100TT and it was fine. But I’ve swapped back from a shorter Fizik to an Arione on my Defy, but will still race the Argo on the Propel (despite riding 800 km in a week on a new Argo last October). I ride anything adaptive Argo on my fixed road bike the narrow version and it is always comfortable
So do you have a wide/narrow derriere? Move around or stay planted? Have a low or upright position? There is at least one saddle for you.
To be honest, I can ride anything,
Same. I can’t recall ever finding a saddle that has bothered me, apart from when I break them. I don’t wear padded liners. I don’t wear Lycra. Currently have two Spec Power saddles of two different widths… the narrower one is more comfortable but the wider one is still fine on a full day’s ride. Have also got a Fabric and some other older Spec Phenom saddles that I re-covered with roo leather. They were good. WTB was fine on a previous bike, and on my son’s bike when I ride it.
A general bike fit is a good starting point if you're not sure your position is dialed in as any rocking or moving fore-aft on the saddle due to a poor fit is going to mean any saddle is uncomfortable.
After that it's either:
1). Trial and error (can narrow it down a bit based off width and general shape if you have had other saddles that work for you)
2). Saddle pressure mapping - this doesn't guarantee finding the perfect saddle but can be a way to short-cut the trial and error process (when I did it as part of an overall bike fit it turned out the saddle I already had performed best in terms of pressure distribution and peak values)
3). Custom saddle - I think this is still in it's infancy (at least in terms of the 3D printed ones), I'm not convinced this will automatically mean you end up with your perfect saddle either but again could be a quick way to getting something that works well enough it's not a source of pain on a ride
Good bib shorts help a lot to...
The cheap (but expensive) way is to keep changing saddles.
The more expensive but probably cheaper option is to get a bike fit. Yes it’s probably the saddle but as you get older it could also be your bike fit.
Im currently going through a bike fit process where they put a pressure sensor over the saddle. The place also has roughly 50 saddles hung up on the wall to try.
However straight away the guy said you will fit a more ‘traditional’ T shaped saddle ie narrow long front and fairly narrow flair to the back.
Its costing me £150 (bike fit) + cost of saddle I go for, but I’ve been through probably 8 saddles in the last 15 yrs and not 1 has been comfy for long distance.
I will be getting a saddle that fits me + bike fit to so the whole lot will be a better fit
You can measure your sit bone with on the sofa with tin foil as a starting point, get an impression and measure between the deepest part of indents. That'll give you an idea of the width to aim for but beyond that it's buying some to try (buy and sell them part used through eBay) then when you find the right one buy a few as they invariably stop making them.
Bike fit won't fix the wrong saddle, what works for someone else might be detrimental to you, the Charge Spoon for instance I found crippling. Specialized stores will do a buy and swap on their saddles that's how my wife found hers. Which they then stopped making. So I have a watch on eBay and buy them when they come up.
Custom saddle - I think this is still in it's infancy (at least in terms of the 3D printed ones), I'm not convinced this will automatically mean you end up with your perfect saddle either but again could be a quick way to getting something that works well enough it's not a source of pain on a ride
I was sceptical about the custom saddle options, do they change the shape of the actual shell or is it just moulding the padding? Made me think you might end up with a 'locked in' sort of position again.
This video gave me some useful pointers about fit and saddle shape, convinced me to switch to a more triangular shape rather than the 'T' shape I had been riding (Antares, Flite) with some good results.
Awful awful thing. Much like the Flite in the way it tries to disconnect important parts of your anatomy.SDG BelAir.
Bike fit won't fix the wrong saddle
yes it will if done properly.
The bike fit looks at whether your on the right place on the bike.
The fitter can then measure sit bones etc to inform some saddle choice which can then be refined using a pressure sensor on the various saddles
Width, length and scoop define a saddle.
i'd add curvature to that, as seen from the back of the saddle, assuming that's not what you mean by scoop. i.e. this:
From my 'testing' of the ones around the house & shed (mine, wife's, son's, etc), I've worked out that I far prefer a flat one that then tapers quite quickly to a narrow nose to avoid thigh chafing. For those reasons the SQ Lab 612 seems to work pretty well for me.
Basically, trial and error, sadly, but it helps to be methodical
Then trial and error.
I ride a selle SLR on all my bikes in some form
The last thing is that I'm not even sure you can dismiss a shape/profile after one saddle. I had a Giant road bike that came with what looked like their copy of an SLR - width/length/shape all seemed identical. But I found it completely unusable.
i have 6 almost new saddles in a box in the shed. feel free to try them all if you want ?
I figured out what to look for very gradually, then one day when I saw it (San Marco Aspide) I immediately knew it would work, and it did.
Nose width - too narrow and your sitbones aren't supported when you're on the rivet, too wide and it chafes. Trek Aeolus and Selle Italia Novus were a smidge too wide, Specialized Power just a bit too narrow, San Marco Aspide just right 👌
Seat width - too wide and it might chafe or push you up the nose too much, too narrow and you have too little support when sat upright. I've found most comfort going for a narrow Aspide recently as I don't use the widest part anyway it seems.
Taper from nose to seat (gradual V or abrupt T) - T shaped good for thigh clearance but not if you roll your pelvis when getting low over the bars and suddenly have no support for the sitbones. In an ideal world the taper of a saddle would match the narrowing of your sitbones which narrow in a gradual curve. Aspide seems most gradual apart from those SMP beak nosed ones.
Side-to-side curve - affects 'useable' width, a saddle can 'act' too narrow if it curves away too steeply despite measuring 'wide'. Lots of discomfort and chafing on longer days.
Front to back curve - needs to match curvature of your sitbones AND lumbar flexibility. I bend from the pelvis, not the spine, so need room for my sitbones to roll backwards and forwards. Something like an Aliante doesn't allow this.
Cut out - shape can be important, I don't like the Fizik or Fabric style 'line' cut outs, and a rounded edge seems important.
Ergonomic features - I couldn't get on with SQ Labs or Selle Italia SLR which both felt amazing initially but seemed to depend on very precise setup to match your position, and don't really seem to allow for changing position much. Both got uncomfortable on longer rides.
Padding - definitely over-rated I think, have 100% experienced chafing just due to excess padding and maybe those annoying 'sticky' coverings some manufacturers use 🙄
Once you find a comfy one buy several.
I did that years ago with Specialized Alias 143mm saddles - found they worked for me just as they were discontinued - saved a search on ebay and now have lots of white saddles as they must have been OEM on a of new bikes and were the first thing owners would swap out. Don't think I paid more than a fiver for them. Seem to be quite lucky that the same saddle suits me on road and mtbs.
My ex has a box of the original Fizik Vitesse's. About 4 left to go before she has to find a new saddle that works.Once you find a comfy one buy several.
They discontinued that model about 15 years ago...
I replaced the rear wheel on my 29er, with a 27.5 of slightly less width.
this dropped the rear about an inch and a half.
makes a huge improvement, as my weight is better distributed to my sit bones.
a gel saddle cover (you get what you pay for) also helps a ton.
its always worth having in case you fancy hiring a bike on your hols.
SDG BelAir.
I loved my V3. Up there (oo'er) with the Charge Spoon and Fabric Scoop.
I was all set to buy another V3 to replace the Fizik Terra Ridon X5 on my new bike, but I'm actually getting on with that quite well... at least I never think about it on a ride which is a good sign (more time seated on ebikes too, so I'd notice it if it was shite).
Always meant to try a WTB Volt too, as everyone who has them seems to love them.
Bike fitters need money though, so do that.
pretty much as above for me, starting point is always a Bel Air 3 or Charge Spoon. Think my hard tail has a Volt which also works.
Basically, trial and error, sadly, but it helps to be methodical
Yep. Find out which bike shop has the most in stock and go there. My LBS lets you set up a turbo in the shop and just try them all, bound to be one you like
