A few days in an airing cupboard will get the seeds germinated (typically 80-90% of seeds I start with tend to germinate – using a simple propagation kit from garden center – although you could easily use a few yoghurt pots/drinks bottles and bodge your own), then as above, pot individually in 4″ pots and they are quite happy on a sunny windowsill.
When they reach a good height (around 8″-10″ or so), switch them into 6-8″ pots to prevent them becoming root bound.
They prefer to be well watered, but also well drained, after a day or two the leaves tend to tell you if they are happy or not – if they show any signs of drooping just feed them some room temp water and within minutes they pep-up and look happy as larry again. They tend to respond well to this cycle of running dry before watering and will reward you with angrier chili’s
A weekly weak tomato plant feed when in vegetative state and a bit of pruning in early stages to promote bushier growth is all the care that’s needed really.
Leggier varieties (like the Lemon Drop I mentioned earlier) may require support but the shorter bushier varieties just go about their business.
Plant in Feb, and by July/Aug you should have a bumper crop.
Also as mentioned above, they will cross pollinate like crazy, so if you grow different varieties in close proximity, the resulting seeds will most likely be a true Heinz 57.
You WILL end up with more chilis than you can eat. Which makes a perfect excuse to make a huge batch of chili chutney and store away for rainy days. Chili Oil is also fairly easy to produce, or you can blend and freeze chilis and just pop them straight into your cooking from frozen.
You can also ‘winter’ your chili plants after their first crop – by essentially cutting them right back to the first branch, and trimming the root ball to the size of a tennis ball. This stimulate another growth season, although normally not quite as abundant in fruit (see last pic for first new growth after winterising)