I don't think there's any hard stop on the whytes, just the clamping force of two M5 (maybe M6?) bolts. Seems possibly inadequate...
tell me about eccentric BBs
I have a 4 year old Thorn Raven Enduro and a new Singular Swift SS. Both have set-screw type EBB and work perfectly. No creaking and easy to adjust when required. This must be the best engineering solution to singlespeed/hubgear chain tensioning. Not convinced about slot/slidign dropouts, especially bolt on plates and the like - can't be as stong as vertical dropouts and an EBB.
I have to say having ridden tandems with both the set screw and the taper wedge type EBBs I far prefer the taper wedge. The set screw types chew up the EBB unit ( although the taper wedge can get stuck.)
you still have four bolts to loosen/tighten to adjust the chain tension
It's actually six bolts, loosen them all half a turn, hold the back brake on, push the bike forward, check the wheel is central, nip the bolts back up all over in 30 seconds.
I've done over 4000 miles on my oldest 19 without any slipping problems.
PITA when they need adjusting on trail.
Good maintenance should mean this isn't necessary... and actually a Phil Wood EBB is dead easy to adjust on the trail, much easier/quicker than sliding dropouts.
Good maintenance can't stop a chain stretching in one long ride. Only happened to me once but then I don't do long rides enough ;0)
Otherwise they do the job but in a heavier and more expensive way than track ends.
Possibly so, but there is no better solution to the issue of chain tensioning and compatibility with disc brakes, IMO.
Track ends and correctly designed slotted disk mounts for me thanks.
Only time the brakes need moving are when I fit a new chain.
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