The Appletizer can is well greased and only fits down if a introduce it to seat tube a layer at a time (it is wrapped on at a slight angle) so it is a tight, yet greased up removable fit. Also the bottom of the bodge shim is well below the top tube welds. Frame is cheap as chips tough old steel (I hope)

Anybody done this for a short period of time, whilst waiting for correct seatpost?

Yep, all the time. My lovely Tazer has a long 30.9-31.8 cheap tinnie shim 3M spray-mounted inside the seat tube . . . perfect job (bit neater than yours Wally – you'd never know 😉 ).

read Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance immediately

Still on The Ragged Trouser Philanthropist 🙂

Can makes fine shim. It's consistent thickness, and well anodised. you can use it for almost anything!

"A special shim from the private stock of Baron Alfred Krupp, who had to sell it at a great sacrifice."

Having had trouble with a couple of the corerct size (Ti) posts slipping in a Kinesis frame and braking one hope seat clamp (snapped an ear right off the collar) and one salsa (snapped bolt) I now run a can shim and have no trouble at all. cut some slots done the shim (about 15mm down, every 5 mm around it) then fold the bits over the top of the seat tube, fit the seat clamp over the top of this and the shim is held in place neatly and invisibly.

Neil

Fit my Marin 27.0 seat pillar into my Kona 27.2 hole with this stuff. 8)

read this earlier on the mobile RSS feed and thought "must log on later to say read Zen and the art of motorcycle maintenance" but it seems i was too slow! might read the book again…..

Ah plan has emerged… Stupid of me to buy 25.4 on assumption, but 0.3mm per wrap will save me mwhaa haaa haaaa haaaa haaaaaaaaaa

Used a coke can shim on my inbred for the last 5 years.

My friend used one on his turner, the shim outlasted the frame 😕