Has anyone installed the above easily without dropping the lowers and/or doing a bleed? I’ve just done a lowers service and don’t have easy access to a work stand.

Any tips on a base set up, running 160mm. I know there are so many variables but any help appreciated.

What do you mean by doing a bleed? There’s nothing on a MoCo fork to bleed, which is one of the advantages of the YariUp (or Novyparts Splig) as you just drop the new damper in and go riding

Can’t help with the setup though, the amount of choice is why I’m going to Novyparts instead

There is a ‘bleed port’ next to the damper dials. The installation video (in French) shows them screwing in a syringe full of damper fluid and pumping the damper rod a few times.

In that case, ignore all the above, I thought that was more of a pressure release thing.

I was gonna buy one but took umbrage with the lack of any video or in depth instructions in English, typical lazy obnoxious French 🙂, don’t you just remove mc damper leave the oil in, 180ml or 100mm oil height then install the yari up. I went with RC2 2.1 charger in the end as the purple adjuster would also bother me.

First off you don’t need to do the bleed. I didn’t for the first year or so and it still worked great, a proper step up from the old moco. Pre soak the foam bits and some of the oil will overflow as you pop the damper in.
I started bleeding it after a couple of services and it feels great but then a fork usually does after a proper service. If you don’t want too drop the lowers off maybe release all pressure in the air spring and take the cap off or valve core out? I’ve never done it like that though.

I didn’t bleed mine (as I don’t have the correct bleed syringe) and it’s a great upgrade for the Yari.

I’m running a Smashpot coil in the fork, not the air spring, so the fork was not under pressure when I installed it. I have subsequently taken it out and re-installed with the spring side left in place.

I found the HSC didn’t seem very effective, so I lightened the fork oil weight and the adjusters now sit in the middle (ish) of the range.

All in all, fabulous supple stiff fork for my ‘bike park/uplift’ enduro bike.

Sounds like I can get away without a bleed or lowers off. So best to drop the air out before install?

If you’re not going to bleed it there’s no reason to release the air pressure, I only suggested that so you could cycle the fork easily.

re. the high speed damping, I think that you can only adjust it by playing with the shim stack. external adjustments are medium and LSC. Interesing that Fast say that the medium speed compression controls the fork dive, low speed controls the comfort. I’m not sure if something is lost in translation but I find that that have quite a cross over. Thinking about it I’ve not looked at what the two different dials adjust in the damper? but it shoule be fairly evident. Changing the oil weight will shift all types of damping, but if it moves to the middle of the adjustment thats a win.

Ah, of course that makes sense now. I’ve actually found an appropriate syringe, so I can bleed without without taking the lowers off, but as you say no air makes it a lot easy to cycle the damper.

I found another thread and someone who bought directly from Fast had the shim tweaked for their riding style/weight etc

Didn’t bother to change the oil or at least check the height but all seems good. Only taken it for a quick spin on a man made gentle red trail, but what was apparent straight away was a bit of peddle bob on the flat. Will no doubt mess around with settings but dialled in 5 clicks of LSC and 14 of MSC. Thought it might blow through the travel after some gentle stuff, but it’s nice and supportive. All the usual phrases come to mind; flattens the rocky bits, tracks better, less fidgety, a bit more pop etc.

I fitted one of these a couple of weeks ago, the video left me confused too so I called fast and spoke to Fabien, he was super helpful and explained that you don’t need to remove the lowers, they did that to show the bleed process as it was more convenient for the video, he explained that you should bleed the fork.

Fitting the kit was super easy, unscrew top up oil, fit new cartridge, and bleed.

I ordered one of these ( eBay 191814665996 ) used an inch of pipe on a syringe like in the video, I ordered the same Rockshox 5wt oil that came in my new Revelations ( eBay 283904752489 ) to top up the cartridge, before refitting I checked the oil level in the fork, and in the syringe, my cart definitely took a bit more oil while cycling the forks and twirling the dials.

He told me the base settings where 14 clicks each dial.

Op is probably sorted now but I thought I’d add this for anyone searching the net for info.

Just to build on the above, Fabian told me to fill the damper up to 70-80 mm from the top and insert the damper slowly which will expel any excess fluid. With syringe in place, cycle the forks up and down with air side deflated until no bubbles. Then close off LSC, pump the forks twice, then the same for MSC. Set both to mid point and remove syringe.

So how is everyone getting on with the setup of these then? I had a chat with TF Tuned about one recently, and even they were struggling to explain the effects/split between the LSC and MSC adjuster. Is it simple enough once you get it on the bike? Not having time to faff around with setup is making me think that a Novyparts Splug might be a better option