Standard BR2250 wheels weigh 2250 grams although Several reviews I have seen they have come in just under that.

Slimjim have you been on the smokestone website?

http://www.smokestonebikes.co.uk/frames/the-henderson/

12×177 rear hub spacing so I can change end caps on my rear hub I’m told. 100mm Bb so my hope one will bolt in and I can then swap over my xt 12 speed and aeffect cranks. Will need a new headset and a stealth reverb but otherwise my bluto, fatsno br710’s etc will all transfer over. I have seen the final prototypes in the flesh and swung my leg over one. It just feels right. Plus Graham is a great guy who is always happy to help. So I’m already sold with deposit down.

That Henderson looks good. And totally custom build, that’s ace. I guess they’re connected to Dartmoor in some way? (worth mentioning either the frame or bike spec is wrong, it says 30.9 and 31.6 seatpost so be careful)

jeff1155 – Member

Can you tell us what the standard wheels weighed, for comparison purposes when shopping for replacements Northwind?

Standard Dune? Mine were 1739 rear, 1490 front without rim strips (I can’t remember what the standard strips are but it’s more than you might think; I replaced mine with pvc tape, works great and weighs nowt.)

TBH the dune wheels have been fine for me but I was loving the half kilo an end weight saving today!

rickmeister – Member

I have a 9:Zero:7 190 frame with 190 spec cranks and they are very wide…. The bb shell is 100m

Do I understand that its possible to fit a RF 100mm 170 spec crank and flip the ring on the outside of the spider?

It’s complicated, basically. Which 190 cranks is it? If it’s raceface we might be able to do some useful comparisons… It’ll depend on the frame though, I did the flipped ring thing with the 170 Aeffects on mine and it fits well- not too tight, not too far, perfect really.

And yeah, that q factor change is worth it imo, there’s trails I ride where the cranks are physically too wide (broon troot at glentress requires a planned pedal smash on one corner, or maybe some ninja lean moves, otherwise both pedals ground out!)

The first proto was 30.9 but the production bike is 31.6. I remember discussing it with Graham

How much are the pre-production frames costing russy?

How heavy are yours, Slimjim78?

Just weighed them, 1360 and 1340. I’ve been spoilt by my Juggernauts I think.

EDIT* just got the link above working on my iPad..450 notes for the frame eh? Ouch. Looks like I’ll be enjoying the Dune for at least another season then.

Production frames are £450 I believe although I’m sure it will depend on what you wan sorting paint wise.

I liked the polished prototype. What’s the deal with having them done any colour then?

Good stuff, 30.9 can **** off.

RACEBIEK!

Ended up a bit over the 27lbs as I went back to split tubes for the tubeless- first attempt at wrap failed, it’ll work though I’m sure. Standard dune photography issue, the sun was out so it was glowing 😆 Never missed a beat all day, 6 laps which made me I think 28th in solo males under 40, out of about 50, I’ll take that.

To be fair, it would be best speaking with Graham. I have just booked a medium frame from the first batch. He has selected the colours on the website as standards. But I believe you can select something different if you so wish. I am likely to go the flo green or electric blue

Bloody hell , STW hasn’t changed at all. You ask a simple question re Budget fatbike choice and get totally ignored only for cock measurers to then get out the tape measure and scales to weigh there fud chariots and publish thier findings.
Would it seriously kill you to give a little guidance to non wankstanes and give some guidance….

That’s the Calibre Dune I bought from a supermarket for £500. A look at all the people who’ve subsequently bought this bike because of info in this thread might help you pull your head out of your arse.

As for giving a little guidance, tbh I wouldn’t want to set my sights so low. Still, your contribution to the thread is surely of great value.

It’s amazing on the pic how the 4.8 makes the 4.0 look small

Northwind, what are your ready to roll wheel weights?
My fatty weighs about 6 lb more with a carbon fork and I can only assume that extra weight is in the wheels.

Stanfree, that’s a poor and inaccurate summary of a >1000 post thread.

Because obviously you’ve read the entire thread before wading in and insulting the contributors, right?

There are two fat bikes available for less than 500 quid discussed regularly here, so half the OP’s threshold and hardly “fud chariots”.

Stanfree – it’s ‘**** stains’, you cock monkey.

zippykona – Member

Northwind, what are your ready to roll wheel weights?

The wheels are just under 2200g and I think about the same for the tyres- the split tubes just now add maybe 130, 140g IIRC, the pvc rim tape weighs grams.

TBH everything on the bike is light, except the dropper- it’s mostly parts I already had but they’re from my old XC race bike and Ragley Ti so there’s no flab. Ti bolts on a fatty 🙄 Frame and fork is only about 2700g inc complete headset so barely more than the Fatty frame alone. The Dune fork is light but quite nasty, very harsh, I reckon your carbon will be a lot nicer to ride on tbh but it’s only a little lighter. (I’m kind of amazed that this makes a difference with a 4.8 tyre but it does)

(*incidentally; I’ve mentioned this before in the thread but most people recommend the Schwalbe AV10D for split tubeless on an 80mm rim. I used an AV10 and an AV10D on the stock dune wheels and these are the sv10 (same tube, presta). It’s a fair bit lighter, and fits an 80mm rim absolutely perfectly so no excess, no trimming, you can see it there but only just. More importantly, much cheaper and more available- I paid £3 a tube from halfords instead of the £11 the AV10D I used first. You need to be sure to cut it tidy and get it centred mind but imo it’s just the better choice)

/\ good tip, thanks.

Is it possible trim the tube short of the rim bead so that it’s not visible externally ?

Not sure… But it’s just a mm or so it pretty much blends in, I don’t think you’re likely to care once it’s on. Unless it protrudes more on your rims anyway. I think if you cut it down it might quickly become a pain to get it in exactly the right place to seal…

(I was surprised btw, I thought the tube would mess with the rim bead on the DTs but it still retains the tyre well)

For slimjim:

It’s not too obvious that there’s a tube there, this one was a wee bit uneven but I figured that’d be more useful for you- the other end is a bit tidier. Up close you can see and feel that there’s a flap but from any distance it just kind of looks like the bead strip on the tyre.

Aye looks good. Those rims look ace too. What’s the most noticeable aspects after fitting them?

Great thread…

Ill just leave this here from this week…….

Just the weight really, it picks up and accelerates much nicer and it’s that much easier to maneouvre. Definitely a plus for a trailey fatbike. TBH I found the stock dune wheels totally satisfactory though.

Great thread…

Ill just leave this here from this last week…….

and possibly for sale to fund a new project…

Is that near Widdop Bregante?

Blackstone Edge – above Littleborough. Hollingworth Lake in the distance.

18″ Voodoo Wazoos are listed as 4 available on the Halfords Ebay store today, after seemingly running out of stock several weeks ago…

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VooDoo-Wazoo-Fat-Bike-Bicycle-26-x-4-Tyre-16-Speed-Alloy-Frame-Mud-Snow-Sand-/201373335552

Halfords own 10% promo drops price to £449.

Go to Ebay via Topcashback to get 4.4% back until end of 31st May.

Fell off my Dune for the second time over the weekend, ouch my ribs are sore – very similar to first time, in a tractor track, hit the edge of the raised central section, lost the front I imagine – I wasn’t aware of anything except instantly flying through the air, then landing on my shoulder and banging my head on the ground.

Things is, before the Dune I hadn’t fallen off a bike for 30 years, even if only the last 4 has seen me cycling a lot more, but now I’ve done it twice in three months and hurt myself. Are Jumbo Jims susceptible to washing out, am I travelling faster/over confident with fattie tyres, or am I just an idiot who needs to stay away from tractor ruts or get some training?

What tyres and pressures are you running?

Ruts are weird sometimes for fatbikes just because every rut is basically narrower- it’s much easier to clip a pedal or barge the tyre into the edge, when the tyre’s wider. Could it be just that?

The JJ’s not the grippiest tyre for sure but it in the dry it does have decent grip. As long as it’s on the ground anyway! If the bike’s bouncing, it’s a different story.

What tyres and pressures are you running?

Jumbo Jims, tubed on stock wheels, at 9psi. I could let skittle more out, I’ve never felt them close to bottoming out, but they roll nicely at that pressure, but I can see it might make the side wall overly stiff and not compress when riding up the side of a rut?

Incidentally I also installed SV13F tubes, but I can’t get the tyres to seat on the rims evenly – one section always sits inboard and a bit lower, giving me a nice oval tyre…?

I’m not sure about these SV13Fs, they don’t seem to fill the tyre nicely, if that makes any sense? As if they’re just struggling to stretch to 4 inches. I can’t really rationalise this but that’s the impression I had…

OK, I was thinking the pressures might be too low, leading to a bit too much self-steer. But 9psi should be enough. Maybe best just to avoid ruts for a while 🙂

The results are in!

My hunch was right, Kenda Juggernaughts are slow. Unsurprisingly Schwalble and Specialized are 1 and 2 given their reputations for making fast tyres.

Be interesting if someone sent him a Floater, my impression was it was faster than the Juggernaught but I’ve not tried enough others to rank it.

http://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com

(edit, the site has nothing to do with me, I just got shot down a few pages back when I offered to swap floaters for Juggernauts)

Interesting test, but presumably it’s only really relevant to riding on a smooth road.

For example, the test implies that we should be riding at pressures as high as 20 psi to reduce rolling resistance. Fair enough, on a smooth road a higher pressure should be better as it means less sidewall deflection. But once you add bumps you lose a lot more in lifting the weight of the bike+rider up and down and a softer tyre, which rolls over the bumps, can be faster.

Interesting test, but presumably it’s only really relevant to riding on a smooth road.

For example, the test implies that we should be riding at pressures as high as 20 psi to reduce rolling resistance.

The winner was the liteskin Schwalble, and the differences were most apparent at 8psi.

If rolling resistance is a measure of how easily the carcass deforms over the drum, then I’d actually expect the difference to be even more marked off road as each little bump is like a miniature drum that the tyre has to deform over. Or at least neutral, for every bump you go over, there’s a hollow that the tyre doesn’t have to deform into.

50W saving at 18mph, even if that’s halved at normal speeds 25W isn’t a gain to be sniffed at.

So far I can only comment on the Juggernauts, but I have Floaters and a Fat b Nimble to try out. The Kenda’s seem to roll fairly well off road, plus they are so much lighter than the others. I’m also running them at around 9psi, may try dropping the front pressure next ride out. That being said, on hardpacked flat bridleways I do notice drag but have just assumed this is a fat phenomenon. Will be interesting to see how a heavier Floater, for example, holds up on the same flat sections.

I’ve been revelling in off camber ‘rut’ grip recently, and rolling up curbs at bad angles is also being taken in their stride.

I haven’t been out on anything other than perfectly dry trails yet but I’d be surprised if they hold up too well with such a shallow tread profile.

Not looking forward to the mud though, I’ll be adding a kilo of tyre weight when I swap over.

If rolling resistance is a measure of how easily the carcass deforms over the drum, then I’d actually expect the difference to be even more marked off road as each little bump is like a miniature drum that the tyre has to deform over.

Yes, I guess that’s right. I was questioning the fact that higher pressures were more efficient as I think that only applies to a smooth surface. But the comparison between the tyres at the same pressure should still be valid off road I guess. As you say, it’s mostly a measure of how much energy is lost in deflecting the carcass.

Did they test and 4.8″ tyres? I couldn’t find any, but it would be interesting to see a comparison between the JJ 4.0 and 4.8, for example.

Fresh goods Wednesday, received my Aeffect crank and Absolute Black oval ring today – initially chuffed that they both turned up at same time only to find that Sham69 have bloody sent me 170mm cranks over the 175mm i ordered.

I HATE sending stuff back. Should I live with the 170s and revel in significantly less rock strikes?

Changing (back) to shorter crank arms won the Giro for Nibali.

Though not on a fat bike.

bet you’d be absolutely fine with the 170’s. Possibly better off than with 175s. Unless you’re really tall?

I’d keep em. but then bought 170 aeffects in the first place.

Which are all sorted with correct spacers and torque and staying put. Cheers NW!