Would you buy a (new) fatbike for ~£1k?

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  • Would you buy a (new) fatbike for ~£1k?
  • Premier Icon Northwind
    Subscriber

    Nice one- I got as far as discovering it had replacable bearings but then I damaged a taper so I just replaced it all, good to know it can be kept alive.

    k1100t
    Member

    How did you get them out of the bottom bracket shell…?

    Premier Icon kayak23
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    The Dune.

    New bb bearings, new front wheel bearings, new headset and new fatter rubber.

    Can’t get over the size difference in the new tyres. Looking forward to trying them out. Went up beautifully ghetto tubeless.

    Looking steezy. 😎

    [url=https://flic.kr/p/24GNjm9]New fatter rubber on the Dune. May 2018[/url] by kayak23, on Flickr

    4″ Juggernaut on the right, 4.8″ JumboJim on the left.

    [url=https://flic.kr/p/HNwh6a]Untitled[/url] by kayak23, on Flickr

    How did you get them out of the bottom bracket shell…?

    I used a workmate, putting the bb between the jaws and tapping the spindle to knock each cup off, then the same with each bearing. Wasn’t particularly graceful but it happened.

    mm93
    Member

    Looks great pal, I’ve got to get round to doing similar to mine before long as I’m getting some play in the BB now ,and im still on the original 2×8 .I may  just get a race Face crank set though,still undecided about going 1x 10. What gearing are you running?

    How do the tyres feel compared to the jugs? Ive never had a problem with grip with the jugs particularly but the self steer on the front does my head in when pressure is below about 9.5 psi.

    @kayak23 I hope you are running that combo with a slammed stem and some TT bars to get full aero advantage. 😉

    whitestone
    Member

    @mm93 – self steer, I find it worst on roads as the tyres have so much grip! The first ride I’d got the pressure too low, particularly on the front, I kept feeling like I was going to high side like a motorbike. I got some more air in ASAP.

    I don’t have a Dune, I’ve a Singular Puffin, but I fitted a RaceFace AEffect crank with direct mount chainrings. I actually run an oval 28T (it’s the only practical way to get such a small oval ring) with 11-42T Sunrace cassette. The range is fine for what I do on the bike – I’ve only felt that I’ve needed a lower gear once and I’m rarely in the 11T – If I want to go fast on easy terrain the fat bike isn’t really the bike for it.

    I don’t know what the chainline is like on the Dune but 4.8″ JJ might be a problem with a 2x drivetrain.

    mm93
    Member

    Good advice Whitestone thanks.

    Premier Icon kayak23
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    MM93

    Looks great pal, I’ve got to get round to doing similar to mine before long as I’m getting some play in the BB now ,and im still on the original 2×8 .I may  just get a race Face crank set though,still undecided about going 1x 10. What gearing are you running?

    How do the tyres feel compared to the jugs? Ive never had a problem with grip with the jugs particularly but the self steer on the front does my head in when pressure is below about 9.5 psi.

    I’m running a 30T front and a Sunrace 11-46 rear 11 speed. It’s bang on really. If that can’t get me up any climbs I probably need to have a quiet word with myself.
    It does spin out a bit though when I’m chasing roadies who have the audacity to overtake me on road sections 😉

    I’ve literally only got the tyres on last night and just had time for a spin up the street so can’t comment on that. I also was totally fine with the Juggernaughts. I think you have to adjust how you ride things is all. I learned this pretty quick after wanging it into slidey surface mud a few times and ending up on my face. Fatbikes have float.
    I’m expecting the JJ’s to roll slower but I think they’ll suit my riding better as they have a much more robust sidewall and general construction than the Jugs.

    I don’t know what the chainline is like on the Dune but 4.8″ JJ might be a problem with a 2x drivetrain.

    I reckon I’d agree with that. There is about 5mm to spare if that from the chain to the tyre on the 46 tooth ring. I imagine you’d get contact on a granny.

    mm93
    Member

    👍 ah thanks,I may copy you LOL.

    So I can put  an 11 speed cassette on the original wheel okay and would need 11speed specific shifter,mech,chain and chainring? All food for thought thanks.

    emac65
    Member

    4.8 JJ’s will fit with the original 2×8 gearing on a Dune, just – but will rub the tyre occasionally.They roll far better than the jugs that came with it, maybe as the tubes aren’t in there.

    Premier Icon Northwind
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    Juggernauts are actually bloomin slow, presumably from carcass resistance/hysteresis rather than tread.

    emac65
    Member

    I agree, but when they’re blown up around 20psi they’re pretty quick… Used one on the back at last years Dyfi with about 15 psi in it & a floater on the front, worked pretty well TBH. With the Dyfi’s rep for ruining tyres I didn’t fancy destroying the JJ’s I’d just bought !

    Premier Icon linchpin
    Subscriber

    Hi, I just read this entire thread.  It basically took me my whole holiday Sat by the pool.

    During that time, I bought a stock Dune on eBay.  I haven’t  taken delivery yet.  My question is this, would I be able to ride the London to Brighton off road on it with my friends on hardtail mtbs, or will I struggle?  I’m not Bradley Wiggins.

    Premier Icon kayak23
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    Yeah, you will. Just run slightly higher pressure tyres than perhaps you might normally.

    They roll along ok really.

    jamiesilo
    Member

    i’ve finally got me a dune. loving it, but definately going to need some blutos and a dropper post, due to terrain, and my knackered shoulders and neck : )

    so self-steer question: i’m running the original juggers, will stick with them til they’re gubbed due to budget, 2nd biek etc etc. but finding the self steer, or not-steer more like, pretty bad, and am convinved i can feel it from the back as well.

    i do have them pretty soft. 0.4 bar = about 6psi in Freedom units. i’m assuming a bit harder will help? but i’m pretty light – 65kg and this seems to be a sweet spot for dealing with loose stoney stuff and not dinging the rims.

    also, from a quick skim, seems liek other tyres might suffer less from self steer?

    basically the jugs are a bit shit and i should stick some JJs on? that’s what i’m expecting to hear : )

    i’m only riding dry trails, so mud -type grip not an issue, but i would like a bit more traction. even at 0.4 bar the back wheel spins out surprisingly often. jumbos again then?

    i reckon when i get some blutos on this will sort all of this a bit. will be able to run both front harder, and the back probably needs to be a bit harder anyways

    whitestone
    Member

    Starting point for tyre pressure seems to be about 1psi for each 10kg of body weight so I’d say 6.5psi for the front and a little higher for the back. With fat bike tyres 0.5psi can make a big difference so get an accurate low pressure gauge.

    Then just go out and ride and figure out what works for you. If you change tyres then repeat the process as the tyres are so big, deep sidewalls, etc. It’s worth going for the higher TPI tyres as well – my wife has the 27TPI Surly Nates and they are way heavier than my 120 TPI 45Nrth Van Helgas.

    k1100t
    Member

    Through a process of trail and error, I’ve found 7.5 psi at the front and 8.5 psi at the back to work for me (I’m somewhere between 70 – 74 KG). It’s a bit slow on the road, but has enough compliance on the bridleways and byways I normally cycle on. I think I could go a bit lower, but the drag on the road would be too much.

    Depending on how you’ve set-up your tyres (tubeless or not), then defo get a low pressure gauge. The difference in psi between my early morning rides and afternoon rides with the kids can be as much at 1.5 psi, depending on the weather.

    For presta

    For schrader

    jamiesilo
    Member

    and as far as self steer is concerned? you get noticeably less at 7.5 than at 6.5 say?

    or is it more about the tyres and their carcass?

    and yes, weather makes quite a different. left it in the (hot) sun the other day and the tires gained easily a few psi

    whitestone
    Member

    I find that self-steer is almost an all or nothing effect so I’ll get self-steer at 7.5psi but not at 8psi. That’s just with that particular tyre. If I change tyres then the tipping point might be between 8.5psi and 9psi. As stated above, it’s a process of trial and error but you don’t want to be putting huge pressures in just to be safe as you’ll be pinging off everything.

    Premier Icon zippykona
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    I’ve mentioned this before but the higher the TPI the worse the self steer I’ve experienced.

    I can’t see how having a flimsy side wall can benefit accurate steering.

    jamiesilo
    Member

    yep, makes sense zippy,

    and yes whitestone, i’d rather a little self-steer than getting pinged about.

    found 2 part used jumbo jims for 30 € the pair this morning so i reckon i’ll give that a go.

    just need to find some cheap blutos now!

    emac65
    Member

    Hang fire with the Blutos,  don’t get me wrong they’re nice & do improve the ride somewhat, but the real game changer for me was fitting JJ’s……

    Quick list of what I class to be the order of importance of things to change first, basically the difference it made to how the bike rode & to cost of changing it.

    Brakes & Discs  – it was nice being able to stop

    H/bars – the stock ones are like a piece of scaffold pipe, actually scaffold pipe would probably have more give in it..

    Tyres – Floaters for deepest winter & JJ’s for the other 8-9 mths, Tubeless,which is probably more noticeable on a fatty than on any other type of bike – you lose the hefty tubes & the tyres just work better !

    Dropper seatpost – This could probably be higher in the list as I find the Dune to be very arse up in the air when riding & it’s great to get the saddle out the way.

    Drivetrain – swopped to a 1×10 set up 30×11-36, which works fine for me. Get loads of traction on the fatty so if it’s proper steep I can usually stand up & stomp it up there, or walk 😉

    & then finally, some forks with bounce.

    I’ve stayed with the stock wheels as I’ve yet to find any cheap ones to replace them with..

    TBH I’d have probably bought a more expensive fatty that didn’t need so many bits changing to make it a better bike had I given it a bit more thought before buying it !

    jamiesilo
    Member

    emac65 thanks for your thoughts, but i need spension. currently thinking 80mm

    the stuff i ride around me is too much for my neck and shoulders otherwise and i get serious headaches.

    also a few small jumps and drop-offs i like to do, but can’t take rigid.

    i’ve already swapped bars and stem, chainrings, and a dropper is on the list. i’ll do brakes eventually and tubless is aalready done, mostly because of puntures.

    whitestone
    Member

    We did look at a Dune (well I did as I happened to be near a Go Outdoors) when my wife was looking for a fat bike. She ended up getting the only XS Surly Wednesday coming in to the country! Comparing her bike with mine (Singular Puffin) there’s a definite “heft” to hers. There’s 250g difference in the frame so everything else is in the wheels and tyres. (That’s generally true of fat bikes – the Puffin frame is just 200g heavier than the Swift for example.)

    As I stated earlier she has 27tpi Nates whilst I have 120tpi 45Nrth tyres. The biggest difference is in getting going – I’m up to speed much quicker than she is but once going there’s not much in it and the extra momentum of her heavier tyres lets her push through things. I bought my fat bike second hand as a rolling chassis so had summer tyres but for me it’s mainly a winter bike (I got it to do the Rovaniemi 150 race) and having suppler tyres is a big plus in snow. Needs a picture 🙂

    Premier Icon Normal Man
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    I am pretty sure I way well have asked this in the past but don’t recall the answer and there are a fair few pages to get through!

    So, the medium Dune, what sort of lower height range would this suit? I’m thinking for the Mrs who is 5’5″.

    Thanks

    k1100t
    Member

    Normal Man,  I’m a smidge under 5′ 8″ and have a medium. The seat post isn’t long enough for me, and doesn’t quite have enough set back, other than that it fits me pretty well. I was a bit too stretched out on the large. Make of that what you will…

    Premier Icon Normal Man
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    Thanks for the reply.

    mm93
    Member

    Can anyone point me to a set of reasonably priced cranks and bottom bracket for my dune please,I would  prefer to stay 2×10 I think. I was going to go for the race Face ride but they seem to be out of stock everywhere. There are some SRAM gx 1000 cranks on eBay and ive also seen some SRAM x5 but my mind is blown by all the different sizes and options ,what bottom bracket would I need for these? Thanks

    Discovered earlier that JJs have a rotation and the rear was wrong way around on my Wazoo, I’ve been defying physics for months and have somehow not died! 😮

    Premier Icon rOcKeTdOg
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    I think your dune frame & fork will probably be lighter, this is based on my experience of the Kona from a couple of years ago. I’d say the dune has a slightly more trail friendly geometry & the Kona a more long distance bike packing vibe, much like an original fat bike.

    Premier Icon thisisnotaspoon
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    Anyone got a set of Calibre Dune or other rigid 150mm forks they would like to sell?

    I’ve had 90% of a bike sat in the shed for 3 years after running out of £££ and the price of Bluto’s went from £280 to £500+ in the meantime!

    Premier Icon breadcrumb
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    Just finished getting through this mega thread!

    New Dune owner here, with the split inner tube method is the inner tube reusable? I used to just taping a rim and wacking some sealant in..

    If you are careful. If you can cope with the aesthetics of a baggy trim, it will be easier to re-use.

    Premier Icon Northwind
    Subscriber

    Absolutely reusable, just a case of lining it up. I used the AV10 tube- lighter than the heavier AV10D usually recommended, and cheaper too- and it’s exactly the right size. I cut it right down a seam line, no trimming at all, and it sat perfectly into the rim with just enough to go up the sides. I did have to be a bit careful with fitting but fatbike tyres are so loose anyway that this is no trouble.

    Premier Icon breadcrumb
    Subscriber

    Cool, thanks guys.

    So a strip of foam slightly narrower than the rim bed, two SV10 inner tubes and a bucket of sealant should see me on my way then?

    Just a heads up for you fatty owners, there are a few fat bits in the latest PX sale…
    https://www.planetx.co.uk/s?sort=price-asc&q=fat

    It includes some fat rims made of cheese 😉 and some front wheels (1x q/r, 9x bolt-thru at time of writing post, doesn’t say in typical PX style but I’d guess they are all Front Disc Spaced {so good for Dune/Wazoo default forks plus Bluto, not good for On One Carbon Fatty forks).

    Premier Icon Northwind
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    The emmenthal rim is literally the same rim as comes on the Dune standard btw.

    Premier Icon zippykona
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    Thinking of painting my fatty. Show me your non white OOF.

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