roverpig – Member

Great picture, but why do so few fatbikes have dropper posts fitted? It was the thing that surprised me most when I had a demo on a Surly Ice Cream Truck; a hooligan of a bike, but no dropper!

I think a lot of people still don’t see them as trailbikes tbh. And also see droppers as a thing only trailbikes need. (I put one on everything, my XC race bike had one and was all the better for it…).

Also though I assume if you regularily beach ride you’ll kill any dropper in pretty short order?

We’re getting a bit off topic, but surely XC riding (as opposed to racing) is when you most want a dropper. If you just winch up and plummet down a dropper may not be that useful, but for the frequent short downhill sections that you get on a typical XC ride they are great.

Fair point about beach riding though. I guess that kills anything that moves pretty quickly.

My fatty has always had a dropper, but I ride all trails I would on a normal bike

re the 4.0s vs 4.8s they’re both good tyres and have their own characteristics

The 4.8s are definitely more floaty but by the same token they bob more. The 4.0s are a bit more critical on the pressures and have a slightly harsher ride but they don’t bob as much, the steering feels more accurate and depending on where you ride they are easier to thread through narrow gaps. They don’t get hung up/smear off stuff as much as the 4.8s

But the 4.0s are also less flattering than the 4.8s I have to ride the 4.0s with a bit more finesse instead of just riding over/through everything

A 4.0 on the back and a 4.8 on the front is a good compromise but personally I prefer the 4.0s f&r now conditions are drier

roverpig – Member

We’re getting a bit off topic, but surely XC riding (as opposed to racing) is when you most want a dropper. If you just winch up and plummet down a dropper may not be that useful, but for the frequent short downhill sections that you get on a typical XC ride they are great.

Aye, that’s exactly how I feel too.

I’ve spent far too long trying to work out the intricacies of fat bike chainline/hub spacing/q factor.
In summary, its a bloody mine field and I almost wish I never bought the bloody thing as upgrading the cranks for optimum chainline presents a clusterf@€k of options.

Northwind – I’m settling on the Aeffect crank arms as amongst other reasons it appears they are compatible with my Hope BB – can I ask what paid for yours and with which chainring/arm length/axle length?
You mentioned pages ago about not being convinced about your chainline – i’ve devoured plenty of charts and reading and I ‘think’ the best option for a 190 spaced hub is to go for the shorter RF fat axle (167mm) and flip the direct mount chainring.
This gives a chainline of 72.5-74.5, close to ideal optimum, and a Q factor of 205mm.
With the 190mm axle you’re running a chainline of 77.5-79.5mm and Q-factor of 228mm.

If you purchased the longer axle, then you could probably source the shorter version if you can be arsed?
This is theoretical at the moment as I am yet to measure my current Q-Factor and check the arm clearance on the chainstay. There’s a possibility (I suppose) the the 205mm may not provide enough clearance.

Lastly, Woofstooth components make offset cinch chainrings (inc. oval) which im sure would offer you the chance to tweak your chainline further. I have several charts saved if you need them.

I think I paid £110 or therabouts for my Aeffects… For the 170mm. And yep as you say the narrower axle and a flipped ring- clears a 4.8 JJ or Bud with a bit of room to spare, not generous but more than adequate. I got it wrong first time and ordered the 190mm version, it’s miles wider than a Dune needs. (mind you the 170mm version could be iffy with a double, I do not care).

Chainline’s fine- not quite perfectly centred but tbf, I just don’t care. It’s not like you spend exactly equal times in every gear anyway. I reckon it’s mostly a thing for the anally retentive to worry about rather than something that matters. If memory serves, it’s ended up slightly offset to the inside which actually sounds like a not bad idea considering how much longer I spend in the low gears plodding up hills.

I got an absoluteblack oval… I think I was just too fast for the wolftooths. Which is a shame because absoluteblack geezer is a total fud and I didn’t like giving him any money, or dealing with the pisstaking delivery times afterwards.

Droppers for fatties: Decathlon cheap non-remote comes in a 31.6, 100mm drop, 400mm post if you can find one. Mine cost £35 delivered last autumn and it’s been great through it’s first winter, perfect for the hooligan behaviour that a fat bike encourages. Mine doesn’t do sand but a cruddy would help a lot with that anyway.

Anyone got crank or preferably replacement 104 ring ideas for the X5 on an O-O fatty?
Is it just a case of taking a grinder to a standard Shimano Deore steel 36t?

I reckon it’s mostly a thing for the anally retentive to worry about

I’ll be losing sleep tonight over this matter!

Am wondering myself about going for 170mm’s, owing to my stubby legs.

Anyone got crank or preferably replacement 104 ring ideas for the X5 on an O-O fatty?

Swapped mine for an aeffect, when the RF BB blew up I’ve been using Shimano HT2. Ring is a works NW

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Got aeffect cranks with Shimano BB here, and I’m not sure what I’m doing with the crank nut.

If I tighten to 45 ftlbs, the BB doesn’t spin freely, if I back it off to where the cranks spin freely, the bolt and the crank come loose in a few miles riding.

I’ve got 2 spacers each side, any fewer and there was room for the cranks to move side to side in the BB.

What am I doing wrong? Any ideas?

is it an mtb or road shimano BB?

I’ve got 2 spacers each side, any fewer and there was room for the cranks to move side to side in the BB.

Presumably it only matters when the bolts are done up though?

I’ve not used the newer RF cranks but the older ones had a rubber X-ring as well as the spacers, so add 1mm spacers and the rubber one takes up the fraction of a mm.

mtb HT2 BB.

I started with 1 spacer DS, then went 2DS 1 NDS, there was still a little room on the spindle when the crank nut was done up tight, so I put in another spacer.

??

I’ve got a gusset ext24 with my aeffects, which is pretty much the same dimensionwise as a shimano ht2. And likewise, 2DS 1 NDS spacer just like a 68mm shell, worked a charm.

Cheers nw.

So you tighten up the crank nut to 45ftlb and you’re all set, no loosening of the nut and crank or stickiness in the BB bearing?

Bit confused how the bearings get preloaded correctly, without the adjuster you get on the Shimano cranks.

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Fatty Trail frame £80 (less Topcashback)

The burning issue is can you wear Lycra on a fatty?
When it gets hot I find baggies of any kind too hot. All my other bikes are suitable for Lycra so what say ye?

In my case, yes. If I want to look like a string of sausages.

nedrapier – Member

So you tighten up the crank nut to 45ftlb and you’re all set, no loosening of the nut and crank or stickiness in the BB bearing?

Bit confused how the bearings get preloaded correctly, without the adjuster you get on the Shimano cranks.

Aye. Basically, if everything’s the right size, then torquing the axle down fits everything up perfectly and takes out the play. Obvious possible issues with this are obvious. But it does work.

So that’s it hopefully race ready, soloing the Glentress Seven on saturday. New wheels ridden on but not really tested, tubeless waiting to see if it stays up overnight (there’s a plan B but it adds about 150g per wheel), bottle cage and saddlebag fitted but not filled, 4.8 JJ on the front and 4.0 on the back, 150mm dropper and 780mm wide bars… 27.2lbs. Not bad for a supermarket bike…

What wheels did you go for Northwind?

Practically BR2250s- I got some cheap DT big ride hubs off ebay, from some weirdo that had downgraded to Hope, some BR710 rims, and
sapim lasers (*). Worked out a bit lighter than BR2250s, but more importantly cost me less 😆 Nice collection of parts, but assembled by a know-nothing idiot, me. So we’ll see I guess.

Done them up with pallet wrap tubeless but I’m not very convinced that’s going to hold. I found fitting the tyre with these tighter rims a lot harder with that method than it was on the dune and I don’t think the wrap’s quite right. Don’t have time to troubleshoot it properly so I might have to revert to split tubes to get it reliable for now. Tested that quickly and it worked a charm (and stayed inflated for 2 days with no sealant!)

Very pleased anyway. It’s a big weight reduction over stock, expensive obviously but I think it’s worth it going by the testride.

(* incidentally I know Sapim don’t recommend these for mtb use but I’ve had them in my #enduro 29er wheelset for a year and they’ve not flinched. They’re equivalent to Revs, only cheaper. I did think about going with the CX-Rays- which is literally the same spoke, squished flat- for the critical aero bonus and wallet weight reduction)

Why only 4.0 out back? I may have missed that bit but the thread is huge lol 🙂

I’m debating now going 1×11 as the new 11-46 sunrace cassette is out and should go nice with a 32t oval ring on 104 cranks

Those dtswiss wheels are the boll*cks. I run them with jumbo jims on tubless and they feel so quick..ow much did it cost you all in for the wheels? I paid £480 for them from Ze Germans but have failed to find them in stock ever since.

Sorry to hijack this thread but was looking for some advice , Its cyclescheme time and I was considering a new bike. I have a Orange Crush for the woods and a carbon pro for the road so was considering either a fatbike or a cx .
Anyhoo my options are Genesis Caribou £880 , Felt DD70 Or Calibre Dune for £579.

What do the experts think. ?

It would be for the usual East lothian trails and a saunter down the East lothian coast.

Sorry to hijack this thread but was looking for some advice , Its cyclescheme time and I was considering a new bike. I have a Orange Crush for the woods and a carbon pro for the road so was considering either a fatbike or a cx .
Anyhoo my options are Genesis Caribou £880 , Felt DD70 Or Calibre Dune for £579.

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firestarter – Member

Why only 4.0 out back? I may have missed that bit but the thread is huge lol

Usually it’s 4.8 both ends but I’m going XC racing 😆 So I’ve taken the minion off the front, put the 4.8 JJ from the back, on the front, and brought out my original 4.0 JJ to finish it. TBH I’d have used 2 4.8 JJs but I’ve only got one. It’ll be back to minion/jj as soon as the race is done.

johnnyboy666 – Member

ow much did it cost you all in for the wheels? I paid £480 for them from Ze Germans but have failed to find them in stock ever since.

I think all in, about £380. Plus my time o’course. TBH it wasn’t entirely about the saving, as you say stock for the BR2250 was really bad for a long time, and I nabbed the hubs on a whim. But it worked out well.

Cool cheers for the info

Had 2 Floaters delivered today, wrapped in a bin bag.

Looked and felt like a dead body. A heavy dead body. Light those tyres ain’t

Floaters were weighing 1400g each or so, back at Easter, despite the marketing blurb.

How heavy are yours, slimjim78?

Anyone used those maxxis mammoths,any good?? Could do with a narrower tyre for the back.

I used them, great in the summer months super fast rolling. But leathal in any form of slop of wet ground

Worked out a bit lighter than BR2250s, but more importantly cost me less

Can you tell us what the standard wheels weighed, for comparison purposes when shopping for replacements Northwind?

I’m torn between spending more on the Dune, including upgrading to a large frame, buying a new frame/forks (after seat post, stem/bars) or getting some 27.5+ wheels/tyres for my FF29.

I popped into SLAM69 in Glouc yesterday. They’ve got some nice fat bikes in there including a beargrease with a leif fork that weighs about 25lbs. Also doing their own brand which look really nice and you can have in any colour.

The BR2250s on hope hubs look fantastic and are so light. I nearly left with a pair. Definitely the next upgrade for me.

Northwind,

Just read back through the last few pages,

I have a 9:Zero:7 190 frame with 190 spec cranks and they are very wide….
The bb shell is 100m

Do I understand that its possible to fit a RF 100mm 170 spec crank and flip the ring on the outside of the spider?

Im getting a bit hacked off with pedal strikes in ruts and a bit of a groin pull due to the wide pedal position…

their own brand which look really nice and you can have in any colour.

They are Smokestone “The Henderson”. I have ordered one from the first batch. All of my OOF bits should swap across. I have seen them throughout the prototype process and Graham has put lots of thought into what people want and what makes a good fatty. Hoping to have the bike built for July. Will review it and let you all know how it rides, super excited to be honest!

Unfortunately all my current bits (hubs etc) are purple so I need to select a colour that suits them. That isn’t just boring black! Decisions, decisions

Fahzunnd! Good work fatists.

Do I understand that its possible to fit a RF 100mm 170 spec crank and flip the ring on the outside of the spider?

I think NW (and I) are referring to direct mount chain rings, whereas it sounds as though you are referring to a spider/104bcd set up. So, possibly not. However, if you have an RF crank that has a removeable spider with Cinch interface, then you may be in luck.

smokestone ‘the henderson’

Been waiting a while for these to show up, there’s limited info available – in fact, next to none on the slam69 website. What standards is it running? You mention your fatty trail parts fitting so assume it’s not a 177/197 straight through axle ?