Would you buy a (new) fatbike for ~£1k?

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  • Would you buy a (new) fatbike for ~£1k?
  • 5thElefant
    Member

    I used schrader valves and fatty strippers. It was for dd30 wheels.

    Premier Icon jeff1155
    Subscriber

    How’d it work out Elefant?

    eddiebaby
    Member

    [url=https://flic.kr/p/VkrVZP]Fatty-2[/url] by John Stanley, on Flickr

    I’ve just put it in For Sale. [/worststealthadever]

    5thElefant
    Member

    How’d it work out Elefant?

    Still up 18 months later.

    Goldigger
    Member

    I’m find that 28 on the front and 11-42 cassette is leaving me wanting a higher gear on the flats/fire roads.
    Currently no 30t direct mount chairing for ethirteen crank..
    Anybody know of another manufacturer who does direct mount for ethirteen cranks?

    austy
    Member

    Have a look at absolute black bit pricy though.

    Premier Icon GRAEMEJONES
    Subscriber

    Has anyone ridden/got wheels with Alex Blizzerk 90 rims?
    Merlin are doing wheelsets for £415 built on Surly hubs, really easy to go tubeless apparently.

    Premier Icon jeff1155
    Subscriber

    That’s it! After yet another puncture I finally wrestled with sealant, tubeless valves and Fatty Strippers to get my winter Nates setup tubeless on the standard rims – what a palaver!

    First tried without the foam backing rods to build up the rim – flabby as a flabby thing and the compressor wasn’t doing anything.

    Tyres off, Fatty Strippers off, foam rods installed loose underneath (I remembered a comment somewhere that the Fatty Strippers would hold them in place) – you can’t get Nates over the rim without locating the bead towards the centre, which pushes the foam rods to the centre, which means they do f-all, and second try – flabby as a flabby thing, compressor did nothing.

    Third try – spray mount the foam rods to build up the edge of the rim, Fatty Strippers back on – again you can’t get the Nates over the rim without locating the beads in the centre of the rim, then how do you get the bead over the foam rods to sit against the edge of the rim? I plumped for the blunt end of a chopstick to lift the bead section by section over the foam rod to sit tight against the rim edge, and voila! Worked (third) time, but there must be an easier way….! Trying to keep the Fatty Strippers over the edge of the rim while doing all that heaving around of the bead was an exercise in frustration.

    They’ve held up for three days so far, still leaking slightly yesterday through the cut outs – I think one of the Fatty Strippers must have had a hole in it from all the faffing. Today it’s stopped and they’re still at pressure, so I’m hoping that’s it but going to order some spare Strippers just in case they need (more carefully) re-doing.

    d3carbon
    Member

    I finally wrestled with Fatty Strippers

    Each to their own I suppose. 😆

    maksogun
    Member

    Hey…
    Haven’t been here for a while. This thread and the many posts re the Dune are what led me to getting one myself 18months ago.
    Anyway, sorry to bump the current agenda, but just a quick question for all of you Dune owners, more specifically… those of you who have switched cranks etc. How’d you get those things off. I’ve munched an extractor trying to remove mine. Any advice would be gratefully received

    emac65
    Member

    Just used a normal square taper extractor & they came off easily enough..

    GolfChick
    Member

    Sorry to resurrect a thread, it’s taken me about a week to read all 60 pages!! Picking up a new to me Calibre Dune on Tuesday evening so good to do some background reading. Second hand so despite being 5ft 7/8 I’ve gone for the large because having ridden both in the closest GoOutdoors both felt fine. The medium already had a longer stem on than I like and similarly the large does to so I’ll be fitting a 50mm maximum to the new large. Contemplating new carbon bars and stem for the Bronson so I can filter down a set of carbon bars and better stem down to the Dune. Priority for me is going to be setting up tubeless, I might go as far as to pick up some new wheels with fatty strippers to make the job easier for myself. With the cost of the bike I reckon I can just about fork out for some wheels plus other bits but it’s just the right price point for novelty factor!

    Welcome to the Fat club!
    Pity your missing out on global fat bike day this Saturday!

    stushez
    Member

    Hi all. Thanks to this thread I bought a Dune!

    Unfortunately I’m having some crank issues… lost the crank bolt on my maiden voyage and the DS fell off. Cranks are Raceface Ride. I’ve replaced the bolt but on fitting it up, i think i may also have lost a crank axle spacer. I’ve now got 10-15mm too much axle when torqued up!

    Anyone have the same cranks and can confirm? It must be a drive side spacer as there looks to be a spacer on the NDS already.

    Lastly, where the flip can i source one of these??

    Premier Icon 40mpg
    Subscriber

    Your LBS should be able to help with spacers. I recently got some hope ones (for a new hope chainset), were a couple of quid each I think. May have to order them in.

    Edit – check whether you’ve got a 24 or 30mm axle first and order accordingly!

    k1100t
    Member

    I see that everyone’s favourite Yorkshire based online serial discounters are selling Maxxis Mammoth 120TPI Tubeless Ready for £35. Are they better than the Kenda Juggernaught Pro that the Calibre Dune is shod with…?

    Splash-man
    Member

    I wouldn’t want to use the Mammoth during the winter but could be a good dry condition tyre.
    Very good price though !

    I’ve not looked in months, but try Athleteshop for JJs and other fat tyre deals.

    Premier Icon Mugboo
    Subscriber

    JJ’s are not winter tyres but are great otherwise I believe.

    The 4.4″ and especially the 4.8″ JJs have more knob tread depth than the 4″ versions, but I think Northwind on here swears by Bud and Lou for winter riding, for better traction at the cost of weight.

    Premier Icon Mugboo
    Subscriber

    Yep Bud & Lou are supposed to be good all year with Nate’s being even better in mud.

    I’ve gone with a Minion up front. I haven’t fitted the rear one, I’m just about managing with the Ground Control out back.

    I would be patient and buy 2nd hand. My Minions were like new, £100 the pair.
    And my Ground Controls were also like new and came with a free pair of Hope/BR710’s for £350..

    grenosteve
    Member

    Finally taken the plunge on upgrading my Dune, and bought a Bluto fork, a race face chainset and some new shiny XT gears.

    I wanted to wait until the 8 speed stuff wore out, but that looks like it’ll take ages!  the bottom bracket doesn’t look too healthy now either – very rusty, but actually works fine.  I was bored and any excuse to buy new bits really.

    Got a 100mm bluto from amazon for £290!  They only had one in stock, but I think its coming from their French warehouse as “next day delivery” has it arriving on Monday. 🙁

    I’ve got a 30t hope N/W chainring at home to use with it.  Thinking of sticking a 22t granny on the chainset too, thought it may be fun to see what I can get it up with a 22 x 42 gear! 🙂

    Premier Icon tomhoward
    Subscriber

    Got a link to that bluto grenosteve? Is it new? What model?

    Edit, just seen they only had one… well if you fancy selling it on, or swapping it for a white one…

    grenosteve
    Member

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01F9KJNF8

    Yea, Amazon only had one in stock I’m afraid.  No idea why it was £290 when other companies sell on the same advert for £500+, but I jumped at it.

    slimjim78
    Member

    Really enjoyed my Dune. But it remains the only frame thats ever failed on me.

    Premier Icon roverpig
    Subscriber

    I’ll be interested to hear how you get on with the Bluto.

    When I “upgraded” my ICT to the Dude I put a Bluto on it straight away, then for some reason struggled to find the motivation to ride it. Not sure why, as I’d loved riding the heavy, rigid ICT the year before, but I ended up spending most of last summer riding my trail bike instead. Then the winter came and I put rigid forks on the Dude (with a 4.8″ Bud up front) and I’m loving it again. I’m still planning to put the Bluto back on if Spring ever comes (maybe with a 4.8 Jumbo Jim on the front) but it wasn’t the obvious improvement that I’d expected.

    Premier Icon Northwind
    Subscriber

    “n0b0dy0ftheg0at

    The 4.4″ and especially the 4.8″ JJs have more knob tread depth than the 4″ versions, but I think Northwind on here swears by Bud and Lou for winter riding, for better traction at the cost of weight.”

    Bud and Lou are great but I actually use the Minions. Partly because I think having a 4.8 minion is awesome, but mostly because they’re just a bit more <fun>- Bud and Lou are implacable and soak up everything, Minions have more bounce and play to them.

    Though, this winter I stuck with FBF front and JJ 4.8 rear, purely because my compressor blew up, and it’s worked OK. The 4.0 JJ is ****-all use if it’s wet but the 4.8 does better- it’s not really any more floaty but it’s more toothy.

    Premier Icon roverpig
    Subscriber

    In a similar vein I stuck with the 4.4 JJ on the back of my Dude this winter, paired with a Bud up front. I preferred that combo to the Bud/Lou I ran last year (anybody looking for a Lou 🙂 ) as it seemed almost as secure with a lot less drag. If I were just riding snow (or sand) I’d go Bud/Lou or Minions (which I’ve not tried) but even up here it’s rare to have snow the whole ride and when we have the Bud/JJ combo seems to have coped fine.

    There’s some decent upgrade bits at PX at the mo for people with cheaper fatbikes, such as the white RDS carbon fork* for £75 and the odd Knuckleball chewy bars for £40/50.

    * You will need an RDS hubbed wheel to fit it, which are very hard to source these days, or take a chance on filing down a milled brake adaptor. Plus the £5 carbon fork bung.

    grenosteve
    Member

    Well the dune is now 1×11, and has a bluto.

    I went with a 30 tooth chainring, and the cassette is 11-42.  May consider the 46 in the future as I run it with 4.8 minions and it’s quite a heavy beast on the longer hills, but 42 is doable.  Biggest plus point is from the clutch mech, it’s now quiet on rocky stuff instead of the heavy 8 speed chain constantly rattling off the chainstay, which is nice.

    The bluto is great, only done a few downhill runs on it so far and you can carry even more speed over stuff as bigger roots and rocks just get eaten up.  It feels like it would be super easy to get in trouble now though, I’ve had a few high speed run-offs through the bushes in the past when I’ve compressed the tyres too much and they squirm and follow a camber, and now it’s even faster so I think I’ll have to keep an eye on that.

    I’ve also raised my bars up quite a bit with about 30mm of spacers under the stem, which looks naff, but I like how it rides now.

    I actually only put some air in the fork, so I’ve not played with the slow speed rebound or the other rebound on the bottom of the fork yet.

    I’ve read that the bluto’s are flexy, but I couldn’t;t feel any, and I’m not sure it would matter anyway when the contact point with the floor has a few inches of inbuilt flex!

    It’s looking like a right freak of a bike now – It’s got Love Mud Confucious bars + bag (fat bike inner tubes are too big and heavy for a saddle pack, and I hate wearing a backpack), PDW fat fender and other mudguards strapped to it, and those 4.8 tyres look massive even for a fat bike!

    Premier Icon Normal Man
    Subscriber

    That sounds great grenosteve.

    How do you find the love mud bars? I’m tempted as they are a fair chunk cheaper than the Moloko bars I keep looking at!

    On a more general note: anyone know why the UK fat bike forum is down? Any ideas even it’ll be back online?

    grenosteve
    Member

    They’re ok, bit stiffer than the bars I took off, but as it’s a fat bike it’s not really an issue. They’re also almost flat, so you need to consider that if you have risers on.

    The bags a really handy bit of kit though, can get a jacket, fat inner tube, pump, multitool, some snacks and full size puncture kit in there with a bit of room to spare.  I’ve not tried strapping a drybag directly to it, but it works well with an Alpkit harness and drybag, plus you can still use the little confucious bag with the alpkit harness.

    Premier Icon Normal Man
    Subscriber

    Thanks.

    I have read reviews that mention the stiffness of the bars.

    Currently I have salsa salt flat bars on my Pug.

    jamiesilo
    Member

    i’m after a dune of a wazoo in a medium in case anyone’s selling

    mail in profile

    dahedd
    Member

    Sorry to bump an old post.

    Am I right in thinking that one of the Wazoo riders on here had a set of On-One carbon forks on their Wazoo. I seem to recall there was an issue fitting them with regards to the brakes but I’m maybe wrong.

    The Pasak Forks I bought have died, so looking at a new front end setup. Been recommended the On-One set by a fellow fatty fiend.

    Premier Icon rickmeister
    Subscriber

    The OO fork may have an issue when mounting a caliper and getting it sitting in the right place on a disc. It’s a front disc spacing / rear disc spacing conflict between hub and fork. I can’t remember which way round it is.

    The cure is to machine or file row caliper adapter / mount by 4 mm. It’s easy to do.

    Note, it’s not filing 4mm off the fork mounts btw.

    The On One carbon forks are Rear Disc Spaced, Dahedd, the default Wazoo front wheel hub is Front Disc Spaced (the more modern standard). It won’t work.

    You either need to…

    Source a new front wheel that has an RDS hub

    Source an RDS front hub and then rebuild the original wheel rim using it

    Delve into the dark art (voodoo? :D) of lathing the brake adaptor and then using a file so that your FDS wheel rotor spins freely inside the caliper, something kayak23 did and bri-72 on here did at least.

    I’ve yet to complete my attempt at the kayak23/bri-72 “hack,” after bri-72 sold me his spare lathed adaptor last autumn. I’ve also got an RDS hub I won on ebay, which I’ve yet to get around to trying to rebuild a wheel with. Sometimes I miss not being able to a fat front wheel, but fortunately, I got one of the last FatNotFat 29er wheelsets from PX which had an RDS front hub, which I’ve been using for tyres in the 28-60mm range.

    Just a thought, but as far as I can see, PX don’t seem to stock the carbon fat fork any more.

    dahedd
    Member

    No they dont appear to sell them on the PX website anymore but there is someone selling 6 new sets on eBay.

    Premier Icon kayak23
    Subscriber

    I’ve not gone through the thread to see if it’s already there but just in case anyone else is looking to change the bearings in the original bottom bracket on the Dune,  details are as follows.

    Bearing code is – 173110-2RS

    I found them at Kinetic for £5.50 each.

    https://www.kineticbikebearings.com/173110-2rs.html

    [url=https://flic.kr/p/KfsRuE]Untitled[/url] by kayak23, on Flickr

    Good news for me as I was teetering on buying new cranks, the lot. Nothing wrong with these Lasco cranks. They actually seem fairly light. The bb is heavy though obvs.

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