Apologies for rubbish picture.
Had a quick spin just to check it goes up the slope of slop. It does easily.
That has justified it’s purchase.
I’m really surprised how well it rolls on tarmac. Shall have a proper ride on Sunday and shall be seeking sand. More fun than any other £500 bike.

thenorthwind – Member
Any word on when the large version is due out?
Anyone?
+1 Suspect we’re not the only people waiting on this

Plus when mail order will be available again!
I emailed Go Outdoors and they couldn’t say yet.

In replacing the JJs for the bargain Floaters on my Dune, I noticed that the rear hub was really grumbling. Stripped it all down but for the life of me I couldn’t get the bearings out of the freehub. Have I missed a circlip? Any advice greatfully received.

Hey Dune owners, what size is the seat clamp?

Cheers

d

It’s a 31.6 tube so I assume 34.9? Can check for you tomorrow

I wrote up first ride on the chubby here: http://pickled-hedgehog.com/?p=3630 – if you’re expecting some kind of proper review tho, you might want be disappointed 😉

I’ve got a 1×10 setup on the way for my Dune so hopefully knock some more weight of it.

Can I be nosey and ask what you’ve gone for?

Slx mech chain and cassette from the for sale section narrow wide ring and cheap deore shifter from Planet X. Really wasn’t going to upgrade till it wore out but all that cost me £50!

Also, can anybody tell me what make and model the hubs are? The rear skewer is marked as QR264r-en-sb, which I think could be Novatec, but I cannot see a hub from them or KT that looks the same.

Cheers

d

According to the spec sheet on the website they’re KT, but I don’t know if that’s correct.

bakey – Member

In replacing the JJs for the bargain Floaters on my Dune, I noticed that the rear hub was really grumbling. Stripped it all down but for the life of me I couldn’t get the bearings out of the freehub. Have I missed a circlip? Any advice greatfully received.

There’s one circlip in the freehub, but you can’t get at it without shifting the other bearing. I just brute forced it- supported the hub and tonked the middle of the bearing with a socket and coarse grade hammer to create a little slack (it’s a pretty standard bearing-spacer-bearing deal so once you have a little slack you can get a tool to the inner race of the other bearing and take it out. I’ve a sneaking suspicion the circlip is doing nothing btw but I put it back on general principles.

Anyone know what size the headset is? (nothing wrong with it, just that I’m about to have a spare angleset and I’m wondering if it’ll fit…)

Hey Northwind, its a FSA No. 57

1.5in-1-1/8in Steerer

Weight 124.6g

Cheers! and curses, too big.

Hey Dune owners who had/have Jumbo Jims, where pressure’s are you guys running?

Cheers

It going to depend on where your riding and your weight really.
Muddy natural stuff I can get away with 8-12psi, hard packed stuff at a trail center and it’s too little for me and can often hit the rim

Yeah, I’m having to run more air than I want to really in the Jims- I’m only 10 stone but I have to run 9psi in the back or it’ll definitely flat. But the tyre feels so much nicer with less pressure, it’s a bummer. Just upsized to a 4.8 JJ on the back, hopefully I can go lower in that- I’ve got 5psi in the front Bud and that’s been fine.

(oh aye- 4.8 JJ fits in the back, I think it’s a little bigger than the Bud though so the clearance is tighter, maybe 5mm or so. First impression is JJ doesn’t seem to grow as much with pressure as Bud does though.)

Not bothering reading back through the many pages on this thread so sorry if it’s been done.

I don’t know how long the deal is on for (as I don’t work for them) but using code PXLIQUID25 gets a very nice 25% off the original On One Fatties
With Carbon fork
http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/CBOOFATX52/on-one-fatty-fat-bike

and with the original fork
http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/CBOOFATX5STL/on-one-fatty-sram-x5-classic-fat-bike

Are you still riding an On One Fatty John? What’s it like in the Pine woods?

Being in Crosby id imagine I’d ride similar area’s to yourself & I was originally waiting for a large Dune, this could be the instant answer!?

No, I sold it on, it was a great bike for trails, rides up in the hills and the said Pine Woods, but with it’s rounded profile tyres I found that it wasn’t as good at beach riding as my other Fat Bike with a flatter foot print.
I’ve gone up to 4.8″ tyres on 100mm rims now for the sand around here.

Good to know, thanks John, guess i should only worry about that once i get out & decide its for me 🙂

The Floaters (if fitted correctly) are great trail tyres, simply fitting different tyres such at Surly Larry’s on the Fatty would be a great help for summer beach and dunes riding

Cheers Guys, I’ll start with 10psi and go up and down from there.

Should you have less psi in the front?

Dune Tubeless…

So I totally copied Coastkid’s tube-and-foam tubeless method, and it worked really easily, seems reliable after a couple of rides. I was nervous I’d roll the tyres off the rim at first but I’ve not had any trouble.

I used jiffy foam (£3 for 5m, enough to do most of a Forth Fat rideout- you could buy a smaller roll but I like having uninterruped strips rather than several 1m strips). Then roughly cut strips about 70mm wide, so that the foam doesn’t cover the edges where the tyre will eventually sit. Doesn’t have to be too precise… I made a wee cardboard template for ease but maybe you could eyeball it.

Three wraps seems to be the right amount- that’s about 2.5 metres. 2 worked initially but the foam compressed under the pressure so after a day or so it was impossible to re-inflate. 4 might make it easier to inflate, or better with baggy tyres, but would also make it a wee bit harder to get the tyre on and off.

Then, 24 inch tube, split down the middle. I did one end with the schwalbe downhill tube most people recommend, the 24 inch Schwalbe AV10D 3.0. But it’s pretty heavy, and also not that cheap- I think I paid £9 delivered online.

So I’ve just done the rear with an AV10, which is a narrower 2.5. I didn’t actually weigh but it’s thinner rubber and claimed weight is 100g less (you can trim the bigger tube down but it’ll still be heavier). You don’t need toughness in a tubeless tube, you just want a seal so that sounds fine to me. It’s pretty much exactly the right width, which does create a bit of extra faff, it needs to be central and you have to be careful not to squint it when you fit the tyre.

Basically, tl;dr- apparently 100g lighter per end, far cheaper- £3.10 each at Halfords, and they’re doing a 3 for 2 mix and match so you can get a spare or a tyre for another bike, nice. And seems exactly as good in use. I’ll come back to this once I’ve tested it a bit more with exact measured weights.

But yeah. Inflated easily and stayed up. I used 120ml of sealant, that’s not very much, maybe more would be a good idea. My Bud and both a 4.0 and 4.8 JJ sealed up easily

The weight reduction isn’t vast- the Maxxis tubes are about 450g each. The foam doesn’t weigh much at all, the tube is claimed 165g and the sealant about 100g. I’ve also replaced the stock rim strips (65g) with a double layer of wide PVC tape (bugger all g, and yellow). I want to recap it and weigh the new rim tape and foam but there’s at least a 200g an end saving here. And hopefully less bloomin punctures.

Cheers Northwind interesting read, luckily for me (touch wood) I’ve not had a puncture yet, seems a bit of faff for 200g and to be honest I could do with losing more than 200g off my belly first before the wheels 🙂

where did you get the jiffy foam from and can you get a proper tubeless rim strip instead of using the 24″ tube?

Got to be honest the tubeless weight saving on Fatty’s is not worth the bother. However I think tubeless is a must if you are to run them at the correct pressures. I know my wheels have double the sealant NW’s do (at least) But the fact i no longer puncture and can run the correct pressures is reason enough for me. I’m sure there are loads of folk who will say they have never punctured a tube at 5psi after 10 years and 20k of fat bike miles, but for me tubeless is the only way to roll. My setup is BR710’s with Nates.

I havent managed to find an answer or get a respons yet – I’m keen on the Dune in its supposed new large sizing but have no idea if there has been an update on release date yet?

Whilst the O-O fatty is currently 25% off i’d like to get a better idea of timing..

I’ve heard March mentioned from someone for the Large Dune, but unsure of the source etc. I’d get the On One fatty with the 25% off

I’d get the On One fatty with the 25% off

+1

By the time you’ve added more wintery tyres, maybe gone 1×10, fitted hydraulic brakes, it’s probably so close in price it doesn’t matter.

I was thinking of selling mine (stock except 1×10, carbon fork, tubeless front, carbon bars, reverb, have a bosch hole saw and cutting fluid to drill the rims which I’ll throw in), but with those On-One prices I doubt anyone would be interested at a price I’d accept.

@russy, yeah I agree tbh, I reckon I might need to add more sealant and if I do, it’ll weigh about the same as a specialized dh tube all in. But it’s not so much for the weight, reinflating fat bike tyres with a portable pump is sisyphean 😆

nickgti – Member

where did you get the jiffy foam from and can you get a proper tubeless rim strip instead of using the 24″ tube?

Ebay, I’m lazy- you can probably get it in b&q as underlay, or in stationery places but it was so cheap I mail ordered it. No tubeless strips as far as I know?

I like the idea of the Calibre offering up more standard axle spacing tbh, plus easier to upgrade wheels in future. Plus im secretly hoping the large version will be s fluroescent as the medium..

just had a look around only one I can find is american
http://orangesealed.com/shop/fat-tire-kit

I love my Dune but sometimes a wonder if the money I’ve spent on it already I would have been better off buying an On One fatty.

I think my foam was sold as window sill underlay or something like that. Came on a huge roll but I think I binned the rest.

IME a better option could be double-bubble bubble wrap. It’s usually foil backed and made of two layers stuck together so the bubbles interlock and form an almost solid sheet. The foam packs down after a while, and if the bead does come off the hook unevenly it crushes it.

You guys seem to go through an awful lot of hassle to go tubeless when you can just use a dozen wraps of packing wrap and thats it done!
Ive done both my OO Fattys wheels and just did my Clownshoe wheel without any problems and its all done in a matter of minutes, I dont even need to build up the centre as the packing wrap already does that.
Tubeless, the easy way 🙂

There’s about 5 different methods in that link, which did you use?

The method I listed is actually really simple btw. Can’t say it’s the best but it’s certainly not a lot of hassle.

Can’t remember if I’ve said earlier in the thread, I went down the slime inner tube gloop in the inner tubes………but what I’ve found with it is you need 20psi+ to get it to seal and if you get five thorn holes in one go you’re screwed (as I found out even using CO2 cartridges back to back)…. So new tube had to be installed….however proper puncture patches on the tube and whacked it back in.
My mate did a similar thing on his fatty but mixed (contrary to slimes website) the Pro tubeless sealant and the inner tube sealant 50/50. His sealed up a treat…..
I may switch to the slime pro sealant in entirety or at least 50/50 mix as the inner tube version has bigger rubber particles in it or maybe even risk Stans in the tubes and not use CO2 at all.

To be honest, there doesn’t seem to be much in it between the Dune and the Fatty for me.

Both come with 2×10 stock so if you want to go 1x you need to upgrade either way.

Drivetrain and brakes don’t seem to be much higher spec on the Fatty (yes it’s got hydro’s, but SRAM, which everyone’s always moaning about on here, and entry-level at that).

The ali fork, overall weight difference (3.5kg on paper), tapered headset, bolt-thru dropouts and marginally less offensive colour are pushing me towards the Dune.

What am I missing?

I am a bit odd in that I get calf rub on bikes that no one else does. On my OO I just miss. The Dune with its wider hub probably has wider stays and I reckon I’d rub on that.

I am a bit odd in that I get calf rub on bikes that no one else does

I can see how this would happen

Looking at the different sizes of Big Jon in the shop they all had the same chainstays but the seatstays varied a lot. The M – and to a lesser extent the L – had crammed the rear wheel in (4.8 JJ) whereas on the XL there’s an easy gap between the wheel and the seat tube.

So riding it my calves are forward of the seatstays and there’s no possibility of contact but someone on smaller bike would be that much closer

The Dune has the more “standard” hub spacing so easy upgrade to a bluto.

Depends if you can get away with the size of the Dune? I’m just under 6ft and with a correct length seatpost it works, although I like a smaller frame to start with.

Drivetrain and finishing kit is better on the fatty

Northwind, I linked to the exact post.
This one –

thenorthwind,the Dune is 2×8, not 2×10.
I’ve had my OO Fatty for just over a year and have put 5200 miles on it with the standard DB3 brakes, and have never had any problems. I do try and look after my stuff though.
I am actually still on the original chain/cassette and chainring!

The only reason to go for the Dune would be for the hub sizes which gives you the bigger availability of upgrades should you want them.
With the OO Fatty 135/170 QR, you are very limited in that department, especially in the secondhand market, although, I was very lucky to eventually get myself Rolling Daryl & Clownshoe built wheels secondhand that had the correct hubs and spacing 🙂