Northwind, when you got your Aeffect cranks I assume you got the 100/190 option but still had to space of out for good chain line? Think my drive trains dying fast today had massive chain suck issues and all sorts of grinding noises and rear mech where it rotates sound the hanger bolt has about 1mm movement in it…….alas I note that stock is rare as hens teeth until mid January 😯
Yeah, Alex has his up and running. Delay on mine because absoluteblack turned out to be out of stock of chainrings, despite saying they had stock 🙁 But should have em in a couple of weeks.
I couldn’t find the 170 spacing version in stock anywhere outside of the US but a few euro shops have the 190.
I’m now part of the gang! Just got this and it’s got all the upgrades I wanted to do already.
Surprised how well it rolls on tarmac. Shall have my first outing on Monday.
@suggsey – I had to push the cranks outboard with two spacers on the drive side. Even then the chainline wasn’t great, so we flipped the ring round (and have done so with the Oval I fitted today) to give it a few more mm. Happy with the chainline now and no issues in use at all.
I’ve had to tap out the thread for the rear axle. Have a replacement on order as well. Hope I don’t have to take the rear wheel out too many times. Otherwise it’s down the tool shop to find a bolt with the same thread!
Cheers for the reply, so was it the 190 version you fitted, just wondering if the 170 Q factor versions caused the chain line issues (I know it shouldn’t make a difference because of the mounting point of the ring on the crank arm) but if you’ve used the 100/170 versions wondered if that was the issue.
As for the rear axle I must agree caution in installation and tightening etc is done with caution. 😆
I just went back and checked. Mine with the 100/170s. Don;t think 190s were in stock and I was impatient 😉 It’s not really any issue, easy to fix and works fine in use. Just needed a bit of lateral thinking. Seem to be so many standards flying about for fat bikes, hard to know which one to follow! Back in the day of just deciding 68 or 73mm bottom brackets things were much easier!
It’s very interesting reading about all the various upgrades as I’ve done a few basics to mine and looking to do a few more soon. So far I’ve fitted a set of hydraulic brakes I had laying around and fitted a spare set of pedals I had. Yesterday I fitted a pair of On One Floaters as the Schwalbes really are pretty useless in the mud although it kept my riding friends entertained watching me slip sliding away.
The next thing I want to change are the gears and I could do with a few pointers. Is there a complete 2×10 set up that will bolt straight on, ie both derailleurs, changers and cassette. Is it possible to just change the front chain rings and use the original crank arms or is it better to go the whole hog and change the lot. I had considered 1×10 but it’s a bit hilly here on the outskirts of Sheffield/Derbyshire and I thought I might miss the lower gears.
It’s funny how the Dune has now become my go to bike, my Canyon hasn’t had a look in recently.
We all know what a Dune looks like but you can never have too many pics and here it is on Bridlington beach on NYD
Not sure how 2×10 would work as the current setup has all that bracketry for 8 speed. So you’d need some kind of e-type mech. Pretty sure 10 speed chainrings wont’ be compatible with those cranks so hard to see how a mix and match would work. Can’t use std cranks as you need 100mm BB shell… so I think that’s a no unless I misunderstood what you were asking!
For this still looking for mudguard options, i gave up with the flappy DH one and switched to a Fat Face from MuckyNutz and a ghetto rear made up of an old MN front and rear.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/C4AoUr]FoDing Muddy[/url] by Alex Leigh, on Flickr
Surprisingly effective. Absolutely filthy in the Forest today. Reverb stayed mostly dry (that’s my key requirement for the rear) and reduced splatter from the front even tho there’s some clearance between tyre and guard. I might add a crud-guard as well but cables will get in the way.
Cranks and chainrings are unfussy about compatibility, you’ll probably be fine to do 2×10 with the existing rings. The cranks themselves are 100% compatible if you wanted to change rings but the standard rings should do the job (I reckon you could find the exact same rings OE on bikes with 9 and 10 speed if you look around).
Mech, I don’t know about. Though, again the original one will most likely do the job with a little tweaking- it’s doing the same job regardless of the number of rear gears.
Thing about 1×10 is range really and to me, the fatbike doesn’t really need high gears as much- keeping it going at high speed is redonkulously hard work, rolling resistance seems pretty much exponential. So if you gear down, ie stick a 30T on the front and an expanded 42T cassette on the back, you’ve got bottom gearing almost identical to a traditional 22 front, 32 rear 2x setup. (I’m going down to 28T on mine but you can’t do that on the stock cranks)
Alex and others too it may be of interest to you that Wolf tooth components have just introduced a reverse dish direct ring. You do need a direct fit crank but it allows you to run a 170 crank with a 190 rear end and have correct chainline and and so you get a narrower q factor than if you used a 190 crank 😉
Oh ta, Firestarter. Mine reversed ring seems to work pretty well – except you can’t quite get it ‘top dead centre’ in terms of the best spot for the oval. I’ll take a look at the WC one as I could ‘save’ this one for my Aeris which has the same chainring fitting.
I just picked up a Dune last night, it seems great. Re brakes, is it just the levers that are rubbish or are the calipers bad too? I am torn between just sticking on some xt levers and calipers or trying some TRP Spyke levers. What’s the best way to go tubeless with the current rims and jumbo jims?
Or just more stock – I’d love to get a Dune but its a 150 mile round trip to my nearest store from the south coast, doesn’t make sense adding £50 in travel costs to my cheap winter bike when an (undefined) bit of patience will bring more stock that I can mail order, 10% sale or not!
That’s a fair old drive – sure there will be new stock but knowing what I know now, I’d drive and get one 🙂 And we have snow! Only a tiny bit but I’m slacking off for a ride in it. Not on the fat bike counter-intuively because I appear to have bought a chubby!
[url=https://flic.kr/p/CZKpch]There's a chubby in the shed![/url] by Alex Leigh, on Flickr
I *hope* this has 90% of the grip/fun of the fatty and a bit more all round usage as I’ve a few road section to do today…
I have had similar thoughts – Scott 720plus (actually started with Spesh Fuse in LBS) have the 27+ wheels and tyres for the slower, shorter winter rides and swop over to 29s for the faster, longer summer days! One do it all bike or two? Hmmmm
[url=https://flic.kr/p/D8jyVb]First ride of the Chubby![/url] by Alex Leigh, on Flickr
[url=https://flic.kr/p/D3kywi]First ride of the Chubby![/url] by Alex Leigh, on Flickr
@nick – I’m with you on the chubby. I love the ride of the fat bike, bought it for a laugh and hardly ridden anything else. My mate has a Stache and he is the same. Not seen his full suss for months. One ride in with new bike glasses on, hard to do a proper review but it put a massive smile on my face.
Lovely frozen condition tho. It’s insanely fast once it gets up to speed and the words ‘monster truck’ absolutely do apply here. It’ll roll over anything. Those short chainstays means the handling is surprisingly snappy (not over slack either on the HA) and it changes direction quickly. Comfier than my old non chubby stache and faster downhill and generally more fun. Noticeably slower up hill. Glad I had the wide cassette range. But yeah so far love it 🙂
I must weigh my Dune, I reckon it’s a bit lighter than that as I ditched all the 2×8 bracketry. Still the Nate on the front is pretty weighty.
@RD – that’s not the issue, it’s the standard bonty on the back that’s beyond aspirational for UK conditions. The rear would be more scary than the front I reckon in muddy conditions. Sure I’ll find out Sunday 😉
Anyway don’t want to derail the fat bike thread so as you were….
The thing I would say Nick – although need to ride it some more – is the Chubby feels more like a beefed up version of my older non 29+ stache rather than a scaled down fat bike. I think I prefer that. There’s something so ridiculous about riding the fat bike that I think would get diluted if you reduced the tyre size.
That ^^ stache feels like a hardtail but way faster (downhill) and far more comfy. And with more grip. The only time it feels EXACTLY like a fat bike is uphill 🙂
Posted 8 years ago
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