why are Presta valves so rubbish?

https://ride.lezyne.com/products/1-rp-presta-v1ny04 I use this with my Lezyne pump

@lister Topeak master DA.

I have an old master blaster with the pistol handle that’s still amazing.

Lyzene make rubbish pumps.

More critically why does my Airshot not do Schrader connectivity?

Brilliant device, glaring omission?

I was a bit surprised when my Airshot arrived and found it only screws into the inside of a Presta valve

I always wondered about when people are struggling to seat a tubeless tire if a schrader with the valve core removed would work. Removing the valuve core would hugely increase the volume of air travelling through the valve and seat the bead, then insert the valve and finish the job.

about half the time I use the new pump it undoes the presta valve core when taking the pump head off,

The pump isn’t the problem.

The pump isn’t the problem.

actually it is! Google Lezyne pumps removing valve core”, seems to happen a lot! You need to screw the pump connection on tight to get the seal. My valve core are always done up tight, yet only Lezyne pumps have  ever done this… if it’s just me then why is this a well known problem ?

They were never meant for tubeless use, we just got half the tubeless solution 20 years before the rest.

https://jonesbikes.com/jones-spec-schrader-valve-stem-pair/

I purchased a lovely new Lezyne digital track pump recently…. presta valves on my bike…. about half the time I use the new pump it undoes the presta valve core when taking the pump head off, deflating the whole tire!!! Very poor design. The Lezyne pump designs are a known problem for this issue.

I had a couple of Topeaks that used to decapitate presta valves, one was a mini pump and the final straw was when it left the valve end jammed in the pump, I had spare valve parts but ended up walking along a trail for miles looking for a pump to borrow.

I always wondered about when people are struggling to seat a tubeless tire if a schrader with the valve core removed would work. Removing the valuve core would hugely increase the volume of air travelling through the valve and seat the bead, then insert the valve and finish the job.

That’s what I do.

where do i get schrader valves to suit 101mm deep road rims ?

Where do i get extenders to suit ?

What about for 90mm rims ?

We wouldn’t be here ranting if this stuff actually existed.

where do i get schrader valves to suit 101mm deep road rims ?

Dunno but you might need your wheels balancing after fitting them..

The Schrader valve was invented in 1891, so there has been a better designed valve available for over 130 years.

They have a bigger bore so easier to get air in/out, easier to get sealant in (the nozzle of the small Stan’s bottles fits in perfectly), more robust and can take up to 500psi depending on the brand (way more than a cyclist needs).

We only have Presta valves due to road cyclists and their super narrow rims.

coconut
Free Member

actually it is! Google Lezyne pumps removing valve core”, seems to happen a lot! You need to screw the pump connection on tight to get the seal. My valve core are always done up tight, yet only Lezyne pumps have ever done this… if it’s just me then why is this a well known problem ?

Lezyne literally changed their design and sold a little doofer to go on the end of the old pumps to make it happen less. Any screw-on pump can take out a loose valve but theirs could take out a tight one.

if it’s just me then why is this a well known problem ?

I didn’t say it was just you. It’s a combination of loose valve cores and folk not pressing the pressure release before unscrewing. It happened to me once about 12 years ago. I still have the same pump.

I’m adding Doris to the list of people I’m not letting anywhere near my bike with a spanner.

If you think a spanner is required on a bike… I’m adding you to my list.

Anyway… Something something bring back the dunlop valve. Best of both worlds… A nice sturdy stem and a bit that accidentally unscrews occasionally.

1. Both types of valve exist.

2. You are free to choose which ever you want.

3. If you put an ugly car valve on a narrow rim it will weaken the rim.

4. Grrrrrr

You need to screw the pump connection on tight to get the seal

You really don’t. I’m the most ham fisted non-mechanic there is and after a couple of problems many years ago I managed to figure it out. All my pumps are Lezyne and all my bikes run presta

If you think a spanner is required on a bike… I’m adding you to my list.

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I’ll add you to my list.

My vaults had a nut at the end of the axle pretty sure my Shimano spds do too . My brake lines get adjusted with spanners

My old xt hubs, I crack out the cone spanners and my cassette locking tool gets held with my biggest bahco shifter.

Ah but they are mostly Special spanners…

I use a 15mm spanner to do up the nuts on my bike wheels, a completely normal spanner

Just to confirm to the armchair critics… 1. valve cores tightened very tight (with the plastic tightening device)… 2. pressure release valve engaged before disconnection…. 3. very competent mechanics, not “ham fisted” 🙂  This is the pump! It seems to remove the cores every 3-4 times it’s used, I even dropped a tiny bit of oil in the connection to overcome the friction…

Looks like a lezyne. Your sarcasm gets no sympathy from me

valve cores tightened very tight (with the plastic tightening device)

I am calling BS on that as it is impossible to do the valve core up ‘very tight’ with the plastic tightening device as the squarish hole just rounds out.  Yes, I am that ham fisted mechanic.

I am calling BS on that as it is impossible to do the valve core up ‘very tight’ with the plastic tightening device as the squarish hole just rounds out.  Yes, I am that ham fisted mechanic.

I have some very nice flashy oilslick annodised aluminium dust caps with the tool built in …..

Roadies tut as they pass.

anyone following liveslowridefast will understand my comments RE valve extenders and the frustrations that short valves (almost every scraeder valve on the market) cause.

I still don’t understand why folks are angry about this. The Schrader valve actually exists, you don’t have to use Presta if you’re clumsy/ham-fisted/too stupid to operate it.

This is a weird thread.

I use these 7s Projects High Flow valves, a great upgrade on the presta using a bit of decent thinking to design a better solution.

https://76projects.com/products/hi-flow-no-clog-tubeless-valves?variant=43816113897688&currency=GBP&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwydSzBhBOEiwAj0XN4HkOc-yqgHi1_MYPu5GK24QL8OTgbu20Q3m7eXr1pxfPA59hcIEn1hoC22YQAvD_BwE

2. You are free to choose which ever you want.

I can’t really be arsed to buy new wheels just to be able to use Schrader tubes, and if I took a drill to my rims I’d be in serious danger of losing a finger or burning the house down 🤕

If you think a spanner is required on a bike… I’m adding you to my list.

[ laughs in track cycling ]

Also pedal spanners, C-spanners, cone spanners, old headsets, and anything else that needs a spanner.

I know i know.

I have a fixed gear Sylvan pedals, 1inch threaded headset etc.

They’re all special spanners though. In kerleys case its quite obviously his special wheel spanner, it might look a lot like a 15mm spanner but its a wheel nut spanner.

😁

Looks like a lezyne.

It is a Lezyne. I’m convinced it’s an issue with the brass thread having too much friction when attached. I have never ever had this issue with any other pump brand on the market, only blasted Lezyne!!!  I tried the recommendation of a small dot of oil inside the pump connection core, but to no avail. The wheel valve cores are tight, they’re a fragile piece of equipment and the plastic tool is suffice, any tighter and you risk damaging them.

Rob from 76 Projects here. Thanks to those who’ve mentioned our Hi Flow valves.

It is surprising that rim manufacturers haven’t changed to schrader size holes for MTB rims, for strength and airflow reasons it makes sense. A schrader valve core is better but it can still clog and impairs airflow.

The thing is that standard schrader and presta cores are made in the billions and are therefore very cheap to make, as we found with our cnc’d stainless steel hollow core that become a significant part of the cost. Meanwhile some brands are simply anodising a stem in pretty colours and sticking a 1p presta core in then charging a massive premium.

What’s the extra airflow required for ?

Are we still trying to seat tires with the valve cores in place ?

Why Hi Flow?

Much faster / fewer strokes to inflate.

No need to remove core, blow up, release air, try to blow up ago hoping it works.

How are you getting sealant in. Breaking the bead ?

I’ve had Reserve Fillmore valves in for about 10 months and they mitigate all of the issues with a presta.

Plus points – Easy to inflate tubeless tyres with a track pump. Nothing to unscrew by accident when removing the pump. No clogging up with sealant,  either initially or when in use. Fit all presta pump heads without modification.

Minus points – The cost. They only come in black. The cost.

Bruce
Full Member

3. If you put an ugly car valve on a narrow rim it will weaken the rim.

The hole will be about the same size as the 24 to 36 spoke holes. It’s a non-issue., the centre of the rim is lightly stressed (except for spoke tension on the inside)

What isn’t a nonissue is rim shape, with some the centre part is shaped enough that they’re even picky about what sort of presta valve you use, getting a tubeless seal depends on the shape of the rim vs the shape of the valve. Some rims you can reliably convert, a lot you’d be brave to try. It sucks tbh.

I prefer presta valves as they don’t tend to get clogged with mud or sealant as readily (admittedly valve caps stop mud clogging the valves, but they didn’t look cool at the start of the 90s!).
Been running whatever presta valves came with my originally Bird for 5 years and sealant gets topped up every 6-7 months and tyres changed once every 15-18 months.
Valve core gets removed and sealant is put in (with valve at 4 or 8 o’clock), valves reinstalled and pumped up (when fitting new tyres the first inflation is with the core to get the tyre to seat, then I remove the air compressor head and install the valve core).
I don’t use screw on pump heads, only push on, so suspect that may be helping with my success.
Never had an issue…and before then I think in the 36 years that I’ve been trying to ride a mountain bike, I’ve only damaged 4 valves – 2 presta and 2 Schrader and that was a snapped presta and bent presta and 2 snapped valves for Schrader and those were all before 2000.
Each work and each just need a bit of care when getting used.

To be honest the Fillmore valves aren’t anymore expensive than the likes of Peaty’s or MucOff.  I’ve just got 2 sets for our new bikes at £24.99 a pair.

Had them on a previous bike and they solved a lot of issues that Presta seem to have.  All the MucOff valves and various others I’ve had just seem to either clog up or get jammed in no time.

You need to screw the pump connection on tight to get the seal

I’m no Lezynne fanboi, I’ve got a floor standing track pump and a really-uncomfortable-on-the-hands carry-on-the-bike pump which-you-use-like-a-tiny-track-pump but I digress.

No you don’t need to screw the pump connection tight to get the seal. Really you don’t! THAT’SWHEREYOU’REGOINGWRONG!

On the floor standing track pump, where screw-on-bit spins on the head (to allow you to screw it on) does leak air slightly if it’s at slight angle

All this to say, no they’re not perfect, but undoing the valve core is non issue.