Viewing 27 posts - 1 through 27 (of 27 total)
  • Who knows their epoxys and adhesives?
  • Onzadog
    Free Member

    I’ve got some alu cable guides to stick on a couple of alu frames. One is anodized, the other powder coated.

    Ideally it would be black, but what would be good for fixing them in place?

    davidtaylforth
    Free Member

    Zip ties and duck tape?

    Onzadog
    Free Member

    There’s a reason for the thread title thanks.

    richmars
    Full Member

    I wouldn’t be happy with just a glued joint in this application.

    Onzadog
    Free Member

    Sorry, should have said, it’s just for the cable housing on a dropper post so no real load on it.

    compositepro
    Free Member

    do you want to know how to do it properly or just that superglue and accelerator will probably suffice

    http://www.vikingindustrial.co.uk/pdf/epx.pdf
    comes in black also

    Onzadog
    Free Member

    Cheers, I’ll have a little look at that. By nature, I’m a proper job sort of person but if I need a big curing oven or stuff like that, I’ll just rivet them on.

    ndg
    Free Member

    I’ll just rivet them on

    😯

    Don’t do this! The 3M stuff above is good, or plexus if you can find it – I used to glue Aston Martins together with it 😀

    Onzadog
    Free Member

    Can I get either in small enough amounts for fitting a hand full of cable guides?

    rollindoughnut
    Free Member

    Epoxy doesn’t stick well to alu. Don’t know about anodised finishes. That’s the sum of my knowledge.

    BiscuitPowered
    Free Member

    Nothing really sticks well to ally unless it’s prepared in a specific way.

    Onzadog
    Free Member

    Bugger. Didn’t know that.

    chief9000
    Free Member

    Epoxy doesn’t stick well to alu. Don’t know about anodised finishes.

    Nothing really sticks well to ally unless it’s prepared in a specific way.

    Not entirely correct chaps 😉

    Epoxy glues are widely used to bond aluminum to aluminum and many other things.

    why not try araldite 2014?

    Araldite® 2014 is a high-strength epoxy adhesive paste that cures at room-temperature. Demonstrating superior environmental and chemical resistance, it is ideal for applications where elevated temperatures are likely to be encountered and is commonly used to bond metals, electronic components and GRP (Glass Reinforced Plastic) structures. It bonds metals, including steel, stainless steel, aluminum, brass, and copper as well as wood and polycarbonate among many others. It offers a high resistance to wear and weather, excellent chemical resistance, and low shrinkage. Thoroughly clean and degrease items to be repaired to remove all oil, grease, or dirt. Araldite 2014 is compatible with standard paints and coatings.

    Hope this helps, in my experience it has been super strong and will probably be perfect for your application.

    The-Badger
    Free Member

    2 part Epoxy like the 3m above would be perfect, but 2 part mix high strength Araldite from B&Q should be fine for low loads.
    Again etch primer would be ideal – but most people dont have this in the garage
    keep a good bond line – these type of adhesives need some thickness to work, dont remove it all by pressing the guide hard to the frame
    Key is the preperation of the frame – ideally you need to remove all paint back to raw metal to work (otherwise it will just pull off the paint from the frame) – you can do it neatly by cutting round the guide with a scalpel, then a mask with tape to remove the paint
    Anodising is fine if really clean – not 100% sure but if i remember right it can help the bond.
    (If it was a brake cable under full load – I would recommend bond and one rivet to prevent the peel loads removing the guides – in theory these should never need the rivet but i’ve seen professionally applied guides fail, I dont take chances with brakes)

    Onzadog
    Free Member

    Thanks. That 2014 stuff sounds spot on. At the risk of sounding fussy, what colour is it?

    compositepro
    Free Member

    if you like to read

    http://books.google.co.uk/books?id=RqCWC0j1hqQC&pg=PA186&lpg=PA186&dq=fpl+etch&source=bl&ots=JjlFopLsJH&sig=hUymSr5ObIY4Ro-VkkiCReX3yGk&hl=en&sa=X&ei=NSU-UevdFbD07AbyuoHIDQ&ved=0CDgQ6AEwAQ#v=onepage&q=fpl%20etch&f=false

    fpl etch was the old way of doing it we used to use this in fact it was a standard in the B3 technologies “before you glue read this” section of a rather large book , however its been long superceded the text will explain what goes on to some degree as do the pictures

    all the adhesives mentioned sit in to 30mpa range so theres no real issues

    personally everytime ive been hit with a huntsman (araldite etc) ive never had ace results with them
    though remember its a cable guide it ain’t coming off ,for prototypes i just stick em on with no treatment except clean as you can get it

    Anodizing is a big subject for bonding depending on whos technical paper you read and compare it to what you just stuck to gether and got a real world test result from it chromic ,sulphuric all have a part to play and will allow the adhesive to pretty much stick to it in a nice way there are lots of surface prep products

    abrade degrease and stick if you must

    BadlyWiredDog
    Full Member

    I used some of the Jagwire stick-on cable guides for just this on an anodised frame. They’re black and come with adhesive film or whatever, 3M stuff, already on them, peel off and stick on. Seem to be fine.

    http://jagwire.com/products/v/Stick-On_Guides

    Onzadog
    Free Member

    That’s where I started. Despite cleaning and warming, they didn’t stick for me.

    ptrockymountain
    Free Member

    Hi Mate try Puraflex K11 its a pu sealant/glue,as long as both surfaces are clean and dry, it sticks like doo da to a blanket.
    Cheers PT

    rollindoughnut
    Free Member

    I’m a fan of cable ties myself. 😈

    BadlyWiredDog
    Full Member

    Oh well, maybe you just need poorer quality anodising… I just ran them along the underside of the top tube and so far they’ve stayed nicely stuck. Not under any great load, as you say above.

    I’ve also used the skull-shaped, erm, Dirty Dog skull zip-tie ones in the past, but while they’re amusing, the zip-tie tends to abrade your paint when grit gets under it.

    I wonder if you can use some variety of Superglue – there’s water-resistant superglue now also a semi-flexible rubberised one?

    chief9000
    Free Member

    Araldite 2014 is usually blue, you could add some pigment paste if you wanted to change the colour. I wouldn’t bother, the glue line should be pretty thin so I wouldn’t expect to see it.

    extremenik
    Free Member

    As others have said Araldite 2014 is good on Aluminium- we use it to repair ALuminium tools. If you are struggling Cromwell tools keep it in stock.
    Also Plexus (Anixter ADhesives are stockists) or Bondline (Hull based)is an alternative we are now using on cars parts for Lotus and Aston Martin. We also use it on Aircraft interiors. We buy It all direct from manufacturer.

    mtbtomo
    Free Member

    I used some two part 60 second expoxy bonder from Halfords. No real surface preparation apart from a wipe down with degreaser, and they stuck fine for the same purpose of guiding a dropper post cable. And if they do come unstuck, they won’t all come undone at once and it won’t end your ride.

    Not sure what all the fuss is about 😕

    TroutWrestler
    Free Member

    Onzadog – if you’re out there – Where did you get your guides?

    eskay
    Full Member

    Get in touch with Loctite technical support, they will advise you.

    davewilson634
    Free Member

    I’ve used stick-all for that sort of thing amazingly strong is white tho.

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