What Loctite for ro...
 

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[Closed] What Loctite for rotors?

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Seems to be a lot of different types. 242, 243 etc but which is the correct type for using on the rotor bolts?


 
Posted : 11/08/2015 11:18 pm
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I would suggest the 248 quick stick things (reasonable at halfords). Rotor screws have a tendency to seize but some threadlock should act as a barrier as well as stopping them undoing.


 
Posted : 11/08/2015 11:53 pm
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I use a dab of grease - to date no rotors have fallen off


 
Posted : 12/08/2015 5:58 am
 cp
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I don't use anything and never had. Never any issues from the best bike to the winter-back-never-gets-cleaned


 
Posted : 12/08/2015 6:06 am
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Don't use loctite, use anti seize or at the very least grease. Allows you to get the proper torque, folks who say you need loctite are the same folk that install bolts dry then wonder why they free off.


 
Posted : 12/08/2015 6:23 am
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You should be using loctite that's why new rotor bolts come with blue already on them.

243 is better than 242 in that its resistant to oil.


 
Posted : 12/08/2015 6:36 am
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Don't use loctite, use anti seize

You know Loctite do a hell of a lot more than superglue? Including a lot of anti-seize components:

http://www.loctite.co.uk/fullproduct-list-loctite-4995.htm

I've use 243 for threadlocker on bike bolts and 648 bearing retainer in a not-quite-snug headset.


 
Posted : 12/08/2015 6:48 am
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Grease works for me.

One of these topics that's really not worth arguing about.


 
Posted : 12/08/2015 7:03 am
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Grease works for me.

One of these topics that's really not worth arguing about.

🙂

Grease has worked for me too, and Nothing At All has also been fine!


 
Posted : 12/08/2015 7:07 am
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My rotors may have stayed in place, but my life has fallen to bits - maybe the grease is to blame?

Well worth arguing about is binning the torx ones and only using allen headed.


 
Posted : 12/08/2015 7:45 am
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[i]Don't use loctite, use anti seize[/i]

Every rotor bolt I've ever bought has come pre- treated with a blob of threadlock. Do you carefully remove it and then apply anti-seize when you get a new rotor?


 
Posted : 12/08/2015 7:48 am
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Copper slip , not had a bolt undo itself yet .


 
Posted : 12/08/2015 7:59 am
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Nothing At All has also been fine!

Until they seize in...


 
Posted : 12/08/2015 7:59 am
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Every rotor bolt I've ever bought has come pre- treated with a blob of threadlock. Do you carefully remove it and then apply anti-seize when you get a new rotor?

No, I just brush the compound over it.


 
Posted : 12/08/2015 8:01 am
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222 for me if the bolts come with none or its worn off. In fact, if I use threadlock anywhere on the bike it's 222. Low strength, breaking force can be achieved with hand tools and I've not had anything seize or rattle loose.


 
Posted : 12/08/2015 8:22 am
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Topic starter
 

Thanks for all your advice and opinions.


 
Posted : 12/08/2015 9:21 am
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I just used the Mrs' nail varnish. 😆


 
Posted : 12/08/2015 10:14 am
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I use Duralac on dissimilar metals.


 
Posted : 12/08/2015 1:27 pm
 emyr
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Well worth arguing about is binning the torx ones and only using allen headed.

Allen heads are an inferior design to torx for applying torque without camming out and damaging the tool or screwhead.

Get torx.

Alternatively, get Centrelock and a nice torque wrench.


 
Posted : 12/08/2015 2:43 pm
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wtf is camming out?


 
Posted : 12/08/2015 2:44 pm
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wtf is camming out?

[url= https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cam_out ]Lifting the tool out of the head. [/url]


 
Posted : 12/08/2015 2:56 pm
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Emyr + 1 (apart from centrelock!)


 
Posted : 12/08/2015 3:03 pm
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Getting rid of the cheese like alloy ones normally found on bikes when first bought, and replacing with stainless still is a good move. And use some 243. Not only locks, but acts as an anti galvanic corrosion barrier too.


 
Posted : 12/08/2015 3:34 pm
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wtf is camming out?

Telling your parents you're gay in the east end


 
Posted : 12/08/2015 4:28 pm