What is the last thing you made? (pics pls)

Post process machining well under way for my additive manufactured (3d printed) cranks. Machining work by @stevied thanks Steve

https://www.instagram.com/p/CE1KvdmnOwr/

I love that! Top work chaps!

Me and the OH spent a sunny afternoon a few weeks ago ‘upcycling’ an Ercol Welsh dresser unit thing..
Was the really dark stain, so removed the stain from the top surfaces, and painted it.
looks Sooooo much better now!

Me and the lad did similar with a matching coffee table too, a few weeks before (I had both arms then!)!

DrP

Looks very nice – what’s the advantage of the 3D printed cranks over currently available machined or forged?

Looks very nice – what’s the advantage of the 3D printed cranks over currently available machined or forged?

You can make them hollow, which gives the best second moment of area for a given amount of material, and you can vary the wall thickness to optimise stiffness/ weight. This means you can have a light crank that is very strong.

“which gives the best second moment of area”

wikipedia.org/wiki/Second_moment_of_area
I had to Google that, still none the wiser…

I had to Google that, still none the wiser…

In really simple terms, assuming you care about weight while needing a minimum stiffness, you want the material as far away from the centre line of the object possible. One example of this in real life is why tubes (rather than solid bars) are used to build bike frames.

In cranks most of the best designs are hollow for the same reason: Shimano with Hollowtech II (an aluminium tube forged into the shape of a crank); Cane Creek with their eeWings that use a shaped tube welded at either end to make a crank; and most carbon fibre cranks are hollow. Additive manufacturing (3D printing) allows not only a hollow structure to be manufactured, but also allows accurate variation of wall thickness within the structure. The wall thickness can then be varied according to the load requirements in that section of the crank.

That does make sense, but I do wish I also could understand the maths behind it. O Level grade C maths doesn’t help I’m afraid.
I did start reading the Wiki page though.

I made a bike frame from an older bike-frame. It was rewelded to make the minimum turning radius tighter.

More here:https://www.instagram.com/colin_woof/

@Edd Those cranks are rad!

No pictures sadly as I can’t cope with the technicalities of picture up loading – but I found that some of the more minimalist galvanised joist hangar (frame cramp apparently – https://www.diy.com/departments/expamet-safe-edge-150mm-frame-cramp/35499_BQ.prd ) type things at B&Q are the same thickness as a disc rotor and promptly chopped, de-burred and lightly polished one to make a lightweight pad spreader for my riding pack.

I generally find out I need new pads when I’m riding and a 4 or 5” by 3/4” steel strip makes changing them much easier.

(Not as posh as the folk above me I know – useful though)

For my next piece, I’m turning some old handlebars and a bit of 1.5” oak board into a push-up bar.

32mm hole saw through the board, saw to chop horizontally through diameter of the resultant hole and some bolts to clamp it up again round the bar. Bolts will be recessed.
Might require a shim to take it down to 31.8mm bug I doubt it (we’ll find out).

Sand and chamfer edges.

It’s nearly October so Christmas Cake was baked ready for a brandy feed or two for 6 weeks.

It’s the Delia recipe with the addition of 1 1/2 tsp of baking powder to ensure that it goes up and stays up!

@DrP, what stain did you use on the dresser? thats lovely!!!

hey…

The stain I used on the stripped surfaces is osmo oil matte.. I love the stuff. It’s not a stain, as it’s clear/matte, but jsut really brings out the features of wood.
There’s still a bit of the old ercol stain DEEP in the wood, hence why it’s really highlighted by the osmo.

It’s pricey stuff, but I use it for all my indoor wood projects as it’s just sooo lovely!

Prep the wood
paint on a thin coat of osmo and let it dry
use a ‘scratch free scouring pad’ to ‘sand’ the surface, and apply another layer.
‘scour’ it again, and you’re done!

DrP

Someone on here made crayons with their kid out of sticks and old melted crayons. Can’t for the life of me find it. Anyone able to help or have a link for a how to? It’s clearly not super complex but might be some good tips to avoid mess!

I used metal pot scourers when I did my Osmo coating, nothing too heavy but it gave it enough of a key to take. It’s really good stuff, some small black bits near our sink where it gets really wet but otherwise held up really well (engineered oak worktop).

Watching the World’s replay and finished my DIY Tow Whee…£12 sorted.

I made bread (again)

I like the cow BillMC

The boss finds me even more irritating than normal when we’re both working from home so I’ve been banished to the annexe and had to cobble together a desk out of scrap floor and worktop from doing the kitchen. I rather like it and the 2 min doofer for me stereo. Need to crack on with redecorating though! 😵🥺

Lankysprinter
Full Member
Someone on here made crayons with their kid out of sticks and old melted crayons. Can’t for the life of me find it. Anyone able to help or have a link for a how to? It’s clearly not super complex but might be some good tips to avoid mess!

Could have been me, back in the early days of the thread.

Put a stick in a vice, drill a 1cm deep hole in the middle of one end. Drill a long hole into the other end, but make sure the holes don’t join up in the middle. This is important. Mark the end with the long hole. This is also important.

I used an old pan (a crappy stainless thing that came with our bbq, supposedly for making sauces or something) with a pouring lip. Peel the labels off some crayons, put the crayons into the pan. Apply a heat gun (or a blowtorch underneath). Once the wax is liquid, pour a drop into the 1cm hole until *just* over-full. Allow to cool, then fill the other end. Allow to cool again, then get a big knife and sharpen the end that has the long hole (this is why the mark is important).

Thinking about it, it’s probably easier to just drill through the length of the stick and tape over one end, then fill from the other end. Ah well.

I found it easiest if the wax was just melting. It doesn’t take much heat so it’s easy to overdo it and it starts to separate and goes super runny

Not exactly “made” and certainly not up to the standard of those with woodworking skills on here but I’m quite chuffed with my new desk. Bought a 2m x 90cm walnut worktop and got the company to cut a 2m x 25cm slice for a shelf and profile all front corners with an 80mm radius and a 5 mm chamfer top/ bottom, placed the shelf on rear of worktop/on top of two sample blocks and secured from underneath, bought two 70cm tall steel legs from amazon and fitted it all together with cable tidy trays (i hate clutter/cables) and it turned out pretty decent.

A base to hold a pillow bearing for my hand brakes lever – operates fronts when you push it forwards, rears when you pull it back, separate from the parking park and in addition to the foot brake.

View post on imgur.com

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Vertical headtube and a reverse rake fork. Sliding dropouts for adjustable rake and trail. Steering run on a linkage to take a Brompton sized wheel.

Follow along here.[/url] Channeling Tony Foale.

Chutney

Some shelves for stereo and vinyl.
The opening goes from 990mm at the base to 972mm at the top, so had to do some careful measuring.
Buily in the workshop at work, so very happy that it fitted like a glove!

@DrP, @Squirellking,

thanks guys – I’ve ordered some!

This is my favourite STW thread.

Just finishing up on a set of desks for a home office setup for some friends.

Birch plywood, quarter sawn Oak and red stuff.

The biggest is for the lady of the house, the middle one is for the husband who is a music tech and wanted a pull out mini desk for the mouse and keyboard with the speakers and monitor on the main desk.

Finally, a bonus little mini version of daddy’s desk for their six year old (they don’t know they’re getting this) 😊

It’s really nice to be making a bit of actual furniture after seemingly ages of just mdf boxes (wardrobes) and horrible banisters and stuff. 😊

I love those desks, what is a non-mates rate for the big desk?

what is a non-mates rate for the big desk?

[Kayak prepares for multiple-incoming of STW orders]

Oi Scandinavia, fell some more of those special plywood trees, pronto!

Me and my girlfriend completely stole our friends’ idea of stealing Jackson Pollock’s idea of throwing paint at a canvas and calling it art. I also wanted to steal Picasso’s idea of making a saddle and a handlebar look like a moose head. We did both and hung it above our STW standard-issue woodburner.

View this post on Instagram

We done a art. We is artists. She wanted a Pollock. I wanted a Picasso. We compromised. #art #plagiarism #pollock #picasso #pollockcasso

A post shared by Dave Winterborne (@the_north.wind) on Oct 18, 2020 at 8:29am PDT

The saddle is a Middlemores which has been around since at least 1958 when it was ridden to the Worlds Fair in Brussels, according to the guy who sold me it. Bar from my local bike recycling place. The saddle hangs on the bar which goes through the rails. There’s a cut-down quill stem attached to the bars, which goes into a block with a hole in it behind the canvas, secured with a clevis pin. Champagne cork bar end plugs from when there were things to celebrate. Canvas was crappy mass produced print that someone round the corner was chucking out.

Yves Klein meets Carl Andre.

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Still a work in progress.

Any more pics of what appears to be just the thing im in need of. A Cargo bike 😀
Wish I could weld 🙁

Not exactly the last thing I made, but probably the last nice thing.
A member on retrobike and we did a swop, he needed a ti ti glide freehub, and i sent him a nos one, so he sent me an entire Bulb rear 6 bolt hub.
Seemed unfair to me so i made him this toolbox. Design taken from one of they woody magazines, with some of my own touches(cross wedges for the through tenons, and a wee spot to put a pencil.Originally of Japanese design. The lid is secured by a compound angle wedge(tricky that)

Only a spot or two of glue, and wedged tenons holding it together. I didnt want any metal, as it always corrodes and make a mess of its own.

Nice table by the way Kayak. Very 1970’s I think I’ve something similar on one of my books. Simple and clean.