Am I prepared to defend my tastes, hell yeah! :😁
Firstly, I am not trying to get one watch to do everything. I have reduced my collection to about eight pieces, and I can cut a few more such that each gets regular, if unequal use. I am looking for a daily watch, with a (at a minimum) day-date function, that is adapted to my needs. Specifically, I am not in a suit and cycle to work etc but want something with a bit of horological interest, dial AND movement side. My Oris serves my practical needs but that red-rotor’d SW200 makes me grimace. I want a ‘nicer’ watch but it is extremely difficult to fulfil my criteria (I have been looking for well over a year!). There are no end of day-date, or more, complications, but typically in dress watches and/or from extremely expensive houses. The obvious alternative is a chronograph with a 7750 derived movement but… I don’t like the feeling of those chronos, as in the actuation sensation. All things being equal, I’d rather have the calendar without the chrono, hence doubts on the BP FF (even if that chrono is very nice but we’re talking €2k service costs!). Now, as to dial spacing….
I like a pointer date but I have a very very very strong preference for aperture day and date. For apertures, remember that the read outs typically line up horizontally (there are exceptions, like BP annual calendars). To do that, they either have to match outer edge, like the VC dark dial, or inner edge, like the VC salmon dial. Apertures can be very easily anthropomorphised into eyes, and one wants balanced spacing. As it happens, I find the GO more balanced that the VC dark dial, but also, I cannot afford a €50k white gold trinity dress watch, and wouldn’t fancy cycling to work with it in the rain!
Asymmetry… Breguet are the kings of this, and while in most watches my brain naturally searches for symmetry, hence not favouring date-only complications, that 3673 is a symphony of organised chaos (although less keen on pointer day and leap year, obvs). A Lange & Söhne (re)built their name with Lange 1, to near universal acclaim. The double date disk (panoramodatum) is an added complication, especially if the two discs rotate at the same level. I cannot afford an ALS, I do I not like their lugs tbh, nor want precious metals. However, the GO is in steel, shares that same design heritage (being the actual legal successor to the historical ALS), is in a masculine, tough and water resistant package. Is it perfect? Probably not, and I haven’t even tried one on (next week for replacement model as this reference is discontinued), but there are not many options for what I am trying to achieve. And I would get to look at this movement, 100-02, during the frequent periods I am bored at work!
The bevels are still mostly machined but there is double-solarisation and crisp Glashütte stripes. I could probably live with that, for a while!
The BP FF is stunning dial side but the movement is a little undersized and dated (mid80s base calibre). The 1315 series from BP are much sexier but they don’t have the complications I want. Decisions decisions!!! 🤣