- Want to lighten my orange alpine 160
… want to give the bike a bit more trail zip when there isn’t so much elevation.
Losing a few pounds will make little difference to that. Having a shock with plenty of low speed compression damping aka ProPedal may be the answer, so it pedals and pumps more efficiently. Otherwise that’s pretty much how I’d spec an Alpine.Posted 5 years agosparkingchainsMember
The weight you really feel when riding is rolling weight – so the wheels, obviously you don’t want to go too light with them. Changing the bars won’t make any difference when it comes to riding. As above – climbing performance can be bettered via shock set up, double barrel is obviously pretty nice mind!Posted 5 years ago
I would go any lighter on the rims, otherwise what’s the point of having an Alpine with 36s?! I have those wheels on my 140mm hardtail! Putting on a big but fast rear tyre for drier races (X-King, Crossmark, Larsen, etc) will make it feel faster than any weight loss can.Posted 5 years agoNorthwindSubscriber
What a top build! I could knock weight off it no bother (and weight off your bank balance) but it won’t ride that differently in the end.
I didn’t really like the CCDB in the alpine, on balance- mint on the downhill trails, but it bugged me when pedalling hard- climbs, traverses, even fast smooth descents. And RP23s are ace these days. You could change the character of the bike a fair bit with just that.
Is that Maxxis ust at both ends? Tyres make a big difference too, might be worth considering a swap. Butcher Control maybe on the front? (a lighter, faster, better Minion- just a hair less grippy than a 2.5 supertacky, but lighter and as fast as a 2.35 maxxpro, and still tubeless ready and pretty tough). Heavy bike with better tyres could be faster than a light bike with slower tyres.Posted 5 years ago
Hi, Heres my alpine 160 I’m looking to lighten it up for UK gravity enduro type events. It’s currently 31-32lbs.
Heres the current spec:-
1×10 slx drivetrain
Fox 36 float rc2
Renthal Fatbar 750mm
Avid xo brakes
Ccdb coil shock
Was thinking changing bars and maybe an air shock but looking for suggestions …..the bike is amazing on the downs, but want to give the bike a bit more trail zip when there isn’t so much elevation.
Any suggestions or experiences welcomed…Posted 5 years ago
Helpfully orange don’t put weights up on their site….
http://www.santacruzbikes.co.uk/ Have a look at the bike builder to see what you can knock off by doing what
RP23 – Very good shock
Full XT Drive train – not as much of a saving as your 1x
After that lighter tyre
After that change the big chunk of filing cabinet in the middlePosted 5 years ago
Thanks for the responses!
I hadn’t thought about the propedal of the shock but that makes sense. I think I’ll look for a used rp23 but still keep the ccdb for uplift days etc..
Faster tyres is a good one to, I’ve actually ordered a maxxis ardent for my other bike so will try that on the rear.
Had considered a new frame but I’m waiting to see what’s coming in the 650b space…obviously the cost will get high then.
Shortening the cables is a good one 😉Posted 5 years ago
I’m doing the mini enduro series and the UK Gravity Enduro’s.
Did the Dyfi GE last year and the distance round was pretty long and know I will struggle on the the alpine on that distance of loop but would like to use it as its a wepon on the techy down stuff.
I have been using my Yeti ASR5C which may explain why I am used to more trail zip!!
I had thought of swapping to a CCDB air but I suppose that also lacks pro pedal, I read on average it saves 200-300g on the coil which would help??
@godzilla – I could be intetsed in the rp23. what year is it? Is it boost valve with kashima..?Posted 5 years agostMember
Nice build and seems in keeping with the frame. It seems to me that if you’re looking for a bike that’s notably lighter then you currently have the wrong frame. A 5 with Revs or similar would seem to be the logical starting point.
Having just ditched my Heckler for a hardtail I wonder if there will be a shift back as people realise that their ‘on point’ AM type bikes are overkill for 90% of their regular uk riding…Posted 5 years agomessiahMember
Ditch the CCDB.
215 x 63 CCDB = 550g + 450# Steel coil at 520g = 1070g
215 x 63 CCDB + 450# Ti coil at 310g = 860g
RP23/Float is 250g – Standard tune was pants but hugely improved once tuned for me and my bike; not as good as the coil CCDB though (860g with Ti coil)… but my 420g tuned DHX Air is better than the coil CCDB 😛
Not sure what tyres you have but run tubeless and use non UST tyres as they are lighter… perhaps use a UST only at the back if your clumsy 😉
Rebuild your wheels with the Light-bicycle carbon rims and Revolution spokes – drop weight from 1900g to 1500g
XX1 type chainring at the front and clutch rear mech so you don’t need a full guide.
Selle Italia SLR 135 saddle = 135g so lighter than the gobi… and more comfy (IMHO)… and won’t snap in the middle like Gobi’s do 😯
Carbon bars – Kenesis Strut is 175g and 745mm… or if you don;t trust that the Easton Havoc is 220g (not a huge saving from a Renthal but every little counts).
Is any of this worth it? Probably not… but its fun
I’ve done this to my Nicolai Helius AM and dropping from 33lbs to 30lbs does make the bike feel better… next up would have to be XX1.Posted 5 years agorocketmanMember
Lost over 2kg from the Voltage with just a few simple mods:
Lighter tyres (folding Minion + Ardent)
Lighter tubes (Conti Supersonics)
Lighter chain (KMC superlight)
Lighter cassette (PG990)
Lighter seat (Selle Italia SLR)
Lighter seatpost (Thomson)
Same bike still gravity-tastic but lighterPosted 5 years ago
Thanks again for the reponses and suggestions.
Sounds like the rear shock is the one to target. Dont want to change anything at the expense of the strength as its still my alps/holiday/uplift bike.
Looks like I can save 100g on the bars with fatbar lite or even more with the Havoc carbons. Bars and shock will give me a 1kg wieght saving, plus some fast tyres should make it feel more livily.
may also look at some used xtr cranks if they come up in the classifieds.
I have used the ASR5C for some of the enduros and quick as it is, the fox 32 fork is not the stiffest when it gets really techy (those who rode Haldon mini enduro 2nd stage will understand where im coming from).
@guitarhero – what wheels are you running?Posted 5 years agowlMember
Swapped my CCDB for an RP23 on my Patriot and it dumped 1.5 pounds. Suspension is pretty much as good – made me realise just how much the CCDB is a tweaker’s shock, and only really worth the weight if you can be arsed to dial it for every descent and need that extra 0.5 second shaving off your downhill times.Posted 5 years agoGaryLakeMember
Straight away I’d be looking at shock and faster rear tyre seeing as you already have them to hand. And the pedalability of the shock and the speed of the tyre will have a greater effect on speed than the weight saving will suggest. This alone will see the biggest improvement, esp as it’s free.
If you have money to throw at it, weigh the wheels and then if the weight savings look good, consider the American Classic All Mountains at a smidge under 1600g, nice and wide and light and strong.
Otherwise, something like a Mt Zoom Carbon bar (it’s been up to the task of going on my Gyro riding FOD DH fairly quickly) and the lightest saddle you can stretch to as these ‘outer’ components again can feel lighter in effect than they are on the scales.
What’s the front tyre? If it’s a dual ply Maxxis, consider a Snakeskin Hans Dampf, bit tougher than a singleply but no heavier.Posted 5 years agoigmSubscriber
Shock is a given.Posted 5 years ago
Is that a Reverb in the picture? Save a lot of weight with a standard seatpost if you can re-learn riding without uppy/downy.
Check the cassette. Below XT they used to be very heavy.
Tyres have been mentioned. Bonty FR4 front with FR3 rear is pretty light and fast for a fairly gravity orientated tyre – and they’re TLR so ditch the tubes.
Otherwise eat fewer pies. (Those who know me will get the irony there)juliansMember
get a new frame, but even the lightest frame thats equivalent in capability would probably only knock a pound or so off.
Accept that you cant go loads lighter without:-
– compromising downhill ability
– spending loads of money
Also accept that being a pound or two lighter probably wont make a significant difference to speed.
low rolling resistance tyres would probably make the biggest difference to speed, together with a shock with some form of propedal, but you could test that one out for yourself by just whacking up the low speed compression damping on the CCDB and seeing if it makes it a better climber and whether it worth while for you.
i did see somewhere that someone had made a clip on lever that clips to the ccdb’s low speed compression adjust and allows you to increase and decrease it ala propedal, will try and dig it out.Posted 5 years agojuliansMember
found it, looks like its a specialised only ‘innovation’, see below.
Maybe you could get one from a friendly spesh dealer?Posted 5 years ago
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