- Tubeless valves – which ones/size
Shimano road wheel need their own owing to the offset rim. As for others it varies, i usually buy a pair at random when i see them cheap so ive got a selection of cone, half sphere, and barrel shaped ones in a pot if i come up against a rim that wont seal for some reason.Posted 1 month agobenpinnickSubscriber
E13 is definitely a nice design, and does legitimately work better than others, but is way more expensive too.
Personally I think the ‘hybrid’ ones where you have a standard valve with fancy bits is no better than a regular valve. Buy cheapish ones and replace often is the best bet.Posted 1 month agopotheadMember
E thirteen valves here, they work well but are v pricey compared to most other brands. One thing I would say is they are fitted with an Allen key, and the size rqd on some multi tools will not reach far enough into the rim to remove it if a tube is rqd ( e thirteen carbon rims ). I found this out near the top of stg 6 of the Naughty Northumbrian after a major blowout and hsd to roll down as I couldn’t loosen it by hand. The dust cap is also a valve core remover although I’ve not needed to remove them so far as every tire has seated straight awayPosted 1 month agogreyspokeMember
Anyone tried the American Classic valve stems? They look to be along the same lines as Muc-off, in that the flange is part of the stem, so no rubber join inside the tube and least likelihood of gumming up.
But the thing is, I have enough stems which work, you can buy cores cheaply, so it will be a few years before I *need* new valve stems. Unless they really better.Posted 1 month agobelugabobMember
We usually only use Bontrager valves on Bontrager rims, as the rim-strip is shaped to suit them. The ones you require are 50mm long, part no W527257.rrp £5.99
As coatesy pointed out, stick with the valves that were designed to work with the rimstrip/rim – it’s a system, so you shouldn’t try to subvert it.Posted 1 month ago
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