Never done the tubeless thing before so sorry if this is a silly question.
I have a second bike which doesn’t get used much but which I’d like to try tubeless on.
Sometimes the bike can go for 2-3 months without being ridden. Does that make it a bad idea? I’m imagining that the tyres and fluid don’t like being stood still for that long… ?

Tyres might go flat, fluid will need topping up. Still worth it.

My mtb’s don’t get used as often as I’d like, and can go weeks with out being used. I’m generally in and out of the garage every day so check the tyre pressure as I’m walking past the bikes and top up air weekly usually.

I also keep an eye on how much the tyres are sweating and if they’re sweating quite a bit I’ll top up the fluid if I’m going on a proper ride.

I also keep an eye on how much the tyres are sweating and if they’re sweating quite a bit I’ll top up the fluid if I’m going on a proper ride.

Depends on the tyre walls whether they sweat or not – my Speciallized Control’s weep like crazy on the 29er but you don’t see anything on the walls of the Conti’s on the other bike.

I normaly rely on the ‘slosh’ test – if you can hear some fluid moving around they’re ok – but someone on here was saying recently that the solids in the spuff can go off and leave a load of carrier fluid (so they won’t seal).

It’s easy enough to top up the fluid – take out the valve core and squirt in with a bottle or a syringe.

Yup – just put 10 mins into your routine using that bike, top up & pump up.

I would rotate the tyres every now & again too…

Yep spesh controls on mine as well. Constantly sweating.

The Geax aka’s don’t sweat at all.

Need to set up the schwables/maxxis tyres I’ve got tubeless and see how they go.

Depends on the tyre walls whether they sweat or not – my Speciallized Control’s weep like crazy on the 29er but you don’t see anything on the walls of the Conti’s on the other bike.

I normaly rely on the ‘slosh’ test – if you can hear some fluid moving around they’re ok – but someone on here was saying recently that the solids in the spuff can go off and leave a load of carrier fluid (so they won’t seal).

It’s easy enough to top up the fluid – take out the valve core and squirt in with a bottle or a syringe.

I was wondering about this. If the tyre contains useless ‘carrier fluid’ and you just top it up with new sealant without removing it, are you effectively diluting the new stuff, making it less effective? Logic would say it would, but no idea how much effect it has in practice.

I’ve got a bike setup just like this. Hasn’t caused any issues, no deflation (bog standard Decathlon rims, Gorilla tape, stans fluid and On One Chunky Monkey tyres). I’ve not topped up the fluid recently, but last time I checked there was still some sloshing. Stayed up throughout the winter with only a mild air top up when it came out again in April.

I’ll jump in with a contrary answer, even though I’m a tubeless rider, and say I wouldn’t bother if I hardly used the bike.

All bikes still tubed here for that very reason. Pulled my sleeping Marin out after a 3 year rest, serviced the aircan and pumped up the tyres. No solid gloop to worry about. Brakes were fine after a few applications too. Tubeless sealant may be great for a regularly ridden bike but is just a bind for one that stays locked up 99.9% of the time.

^^^^^ we’ll get you converted soon enough downshep … 🙂

Thanks for the opinions.

Surprised no-one has ripped into me for owning a bike I only ride a few times a year 🙂

To those who mentioned Specialized tyres weeping – are you talking about the “2bliss” versions? This is what I’ve got on there.

o those who mentioned Specialized tyres weeping – are you talking about the “2bliss” versions? This is what I’ve got on there.

Yes, but there are two versions. Control are lightweight and more prone to weeping (but I’ve seen the same Purgatory Controls on someone else’s bike that didn’t weep at all). Grid are the heavier weight and should be less weepy.

I say to myself what’s the worst that can happen? I might eventually get a puncture while out on a ride.

If the ride was really important or costing money (an event or uplift or long journey) then I would replace the sealant properly before that ride if I was using the bike that had been unridden longest.

Everyone should carry a spare tube with them, brand new sealant can fail to seal too.