Hello,

My wife and I are considering a holiday in October and trekking in Nepal seems to have risen to the top of our list. So obviously the best place to ask for recommendations/advice is a mountain biking forum..

We probably have 2-2.5 weeks to take off which I guess leaves us with 10-14ish days available to trek depending on travel duration and acclimatisation. I am not interested in Everest Base camp but would like to do a good and fairly challenging trek that does not require any/too much use of stuff like ropes/ice axes crampons. Annapurna circuit has been mentioned but looks like it could be tight on time.

We have done a decent amount of trekking including some multi-days in Boliva, Chile, Argentina last year.

Interested in recommendations on where to go and who to book with/how much to organise ourselves.

It’s been a few years (over 20!) but Gokyo Lakes was pretty good. Get views of Everest without having to go to the dump that is Base Camp.

Annapurna circuit is fairly long, but you can go ‘inside’ which is shorter. I did both of these with Exodus, but as said, was a long time ago.

Your issue with the classic stuff like Annapurna or Everest is potentially time relative to acclimatisation. The Trailblazer guidebooks are good and have suggested itineraries/schedules allowing for acclimatisation. Lantang is the other region that may work better for a shorter trip. I’d do some proper checking on how much time you need.

You could maybe walk up to the Annapurna Sanctuary, but the height gains means you’ll be walking relatively short days. It is stunning up there though. It’s pretty much up a long gorge to a high mountain valley with astonishing views. The Annapurna Circuit is more around the mountains than into them, except for the slog over the Thorung La.

On the main routes, trekking independently using tea houses is super easy, really cheap and means you have more control over your own time, it also puts money directly into the local economy. You could, if you wanted, also hire a porter-guide to carry some of your stuff and tell you more about the local culture. You could book a full-on catered trek in Nepal a lot cheaper than from the UK. If you use a western operator it’ll be more expensive again.

In all honesty, tea house trekking is so easy and pleasant – think basic accommodation with food, all you need to carry is a sleeping bag, money and some spare clothing really – that it’s a bit of a no-brainer unless you specifically want to use an operator.

Ive done EBC and the Annapurna Circuit followed by the Sanctuary (pre-acclimatised so very fast) and they’re all good. I’d just be careful with acclimatisation and be a little cautious.

It’s been a few years (over 20!) but Gokyo Lakes was pretty good. Get views of Everest without having to go to the dump that is Base Camp.

My experience is that Everest Base Camp is just a big, featureless morraine rather than a ‘dump’. I’ve not been there during climbing season, but even then, it’s mostly just a load of tents. They don’t leave piles of rubbish behind. Sitting on Kalar Patar watching the sun rise over Everest is pretty cool, even if it is a bit of a cliche. Then again, the views of Annapurna etc from the Sancturary are also stunning.

We just turned up in Pokara and hired a local guide for the Annapurna circuit (or some derivative thereof). I actually found it incredibly tedious, like walking in the Alps only just bigger so you saw the same variety just over a much longer time. IIRC we spent two days in a Rhododendron forest, saw nothing but tree trunks for 48 hours. Not my cup of tea at all. Much prefer the Lake District to be honest.

Manaslu and Tsum valley too long?

Do you know how well you cope with altitude? The posted schedules are flexible depending on how strong you was trekking and could be accelerated until you start reaching altitude.

The last couple of years I’ve done Alpine treks with these people,if I go back to Nepal I’ll use them again.
https://www.exodus.co.uk/nepal-holidays/walking

IIRC we spent two days in a Rhododendron forest, saw nothing but tree trunks for 48 hours.

There’s some other stuff there too. I did the Annapurna Sanctuary trek after the Circuit so I could basically walk up the whole thing in a day and a bit, but I can imagine that with acclimatisation factored in, it could be quite dull and enclosed in parts.

Fwiw, one of the things that’s not been mentioned is the feel of the place, there’s a really chilled, Buddhist sort of vibe to it that rubs off on a lot of people and is one of the things that makes it different from the Alps and even the Lakes.

I think I cope OK with altitude; we both coped OK with trekking to 5300m in Boliva after about three days in La Paz (3600m). I later struggled on Huayna Potosí (6088m) but I had four days at low level between the two.

Footflaps – thanks for your honesty and I know what you mean about repetitive landscapes on occasion.

Really useful recommendations. I guess an attractive part of getting a personal guide would be going at our own pace but I am bit confused how this would work if accommodation books up.

Fwiw, one of the things that’s not been mentioned is the feel of the place, there’s a really chilled, Buddhist sort of vibe to it that rubs off on a lot of people and is one of the things that makes it different from the Alps and even the Lakes.

Yep, not my kind of scene at all. I like romping up hills as hard and fast as I can go; anything else just irritates me. It’s a bit like business travel, a large amount of time just spent doing nothing, managing boredom.

I don’t think October is very high season in Nepal so you should be fine just rocking up to the next village. If unlucky you might have to backtrack or walk on to the next village – your guide should be able to help with that sort of knowledge.

The Annapurna circuit is really quite populare, the tea hosues (hotels) are quite big (up to 100 beds?) compared to those we saw on Manaslu (~10 beds)

We found the Tsum valley really rewarding – it was only just starting to be more open (it used to be much more tightly controlled with permits). It’s very Tibetan in feel compared to the Hindu majority of much of Nepal.

I guess an attractive part of getting a personal guide would be going at our own pace but I am bit confused how this would work if accommodation books up.

I never had problems finding somewhere to stay. My impression is that capitalism has maximised the availability of sleeping spaces in line with demand, or something like that.

Yep, not my kind of scene at all. I like romping up hills as hard and fast as I can go; anything else just irritates me. It’s a bit like business travel, a large amount of time just spent doing nothing, managing boredom.

Very western 😉

Not been with them to Nepal but KE Adventures come well recommended.

Yep, not my kind of scene at all. I like romping up hills as hard and fast as I can go; anything else just irritates me.

A terrible idea at altitude.

Annapurna circuit is fantastic. Hire a local guide in Pokhara. If you’re short of time you could stop at Jomsom, there’s an airstrip there so you could fly out.

Annapurna sanctuary is good, circuit is better, if shirt of time you can fly out of Jonson or get s ride in a jeep now. Once over the pass you can spend a few days going into lower Mustang. Nothing quite large me the change if landscape as you go round the circuit and over the pass.
Langtang an option closer to Kathmandu.
Sort guides in pokhara or Kathmandu, any guest house will do this for you, our tour company in tourist areas

I did Annapurna in 2001 and loved it but from what I understand, its pretty much all drivable now isn’t it? So like the suggestion above about flying to Jomsom, you can now just get a jeep from Jomsom to Pokhara.

I haven’t done it but was looking last year at go back and Mansalu and Tsum looks like the ‘new’ Annapurna circuit and looks great

You’ll have no trouble finding a guide, when we were there you had to beat them off with a stick, they can spot new arrivals and endlessly pester you as you walk around Khatmandu or Pokhara.

Mansalu and Tsum looks like the ‘new’ Annapurna circuit and looks great

It does look very cool:

Manaslu and Tsum Valley Trek – 20 day itinerary

(starts looking at flights…)

It’s been a few years (over 20!) but Gokyo Lakes was pretty good.

+1

Did gokyo valley/lakes 8 years ago – about 11 or 12 days up and down from lukla airport – properly challenging (over 5500m, you can keep going up too), great views of everest, doable without a guide, epic and i mean really epic scenery and best of all not busy (ok best of all is the scenery obvs)

I did Gokyo Ri (same as the lakes trek but then hiking the peak there) in 2017 with my girlfriend. Only a couple of days where it was busy (the first few days share the EBC trail) after that you’d see an handful of people per day. I’ll be honest, I’d say looking back it was the best 2 weeks of my life!

No idea how it has recovered from the earthquake, but in 1998 (Jeez thats a long time ago now) I trekked through Helambu to Gosainkund and on to Langtang. It was lovely, quiet and a lower key alternative to Annapurna circuit. You can start from a trailhead a short bus ride from Kathmandu, trek for ten days or with a side trip up Langtang valley, then bus back from Dunche. climbs to about 4500m with options to go further up the Langtang Valley. Would love to go back.

Langtang was absolutely f*****d by the earthquakes, I think there were no villages left (Mr Mrs wanted to do Helambu trek but we didn’t have time at the end of our trip) so if the area has reopened it might be very changed but might also be worth spending your tourist dollars there.

Can thoroughly recommend https://www.kamzangjourneys.com/. My mum has been trekking with Kim for the last ten years or so, they’re excellent

The Annapurna Circuit does have a “road” round most parts of it but the trekking trail is still available running around the circuit, bikepacked it last year, great trip. As your time is relatively short Id personally stay lowish, Jiri to Lukla is a great trip, very lush, quiet by trekking standards. As said above Annapurna Sanctuary would be doable and an amazing change in landscapes. Great country and great people.

Also be aware if you have to catch a local internal flight out of KTM if flights are grounded you will probably get bumped to the back of the queue when they start again. LocL guide/fixer and US Dollars can sort this so be wary if on a tight schedule.

Hi – Jiri to Lukla would be lovely – I biked this last year – it used to be the route to Everest back in the day so does not see many trekkers these days due to the airports and everyone flying in…great flight and well worth doing as well! The villagers there would love to see more trekkers but accommodation will be basic. Langtang was levelled by the earthquake as Jon said, they have rebuilt and again would love to see tourists back there – I walked it pre-earthquake and it was an amazing walk. Friends have done it recently and said it was great but were very conscious of what they were walking over – many killed in landslides. Gokyo also a really good call – the view from the top of Gokyo ri is amazing and hard to beat other then doing a proper peak. Manaslu is the new Annapurna circuit – very amazing and very basic – take crampons and know how to use them as it gets high and the routes down are tricky in the snow. Tamang heritage trail is also really good and you see a different Nepal…I lived in Nepal for 5 years and only left this year – amazing place and loads of tour companies in Thamel – over 150 easy – so no need to use KE or other overpriced companies. Make sure the guides are from the local area you are walking in – many are shipped in from elsewhere and take there money back with them and don’t know the area as well as a local might…hope this is useful, enjoy!

Jiri to Lukla is a great trip, very lush, quiet by trekking standards.

It’s the original route into Everest BC before they started flying into Lukla. Adds another week or so of walking through lower, lusher terrain and means you start acclimatising before you get to Lukla. I guess you could continue up to Namche, which is quite a cool place to visit – Sherpa ‘capital’, cake shops, caffs, etc – then drop back down again. It’s not really mountain terrain until the last couple of days, but it is really lovely.

Lucky dog
How rideable was Jiri to Lukla? It was 6 years ago I did it and got rained on a lot so my memory is a bit hazy but am looking for a new biking trip out there not to far from KTM and it was lush and very socially interesting. I’ll only have a few weeks. Last time I did Jiri and onto three passes and then Island Peak. Great trip again, quit my job to do that one!

Hey Marin – I did it 2 years ago with a friend who has a mountain biking business in Nepal – it was to Pikey Peak so not all the way to Lukla as that’s the next valley along, and much of it was hike a bike as the monsoon rains had wrecked much of the trail up. The down from the peak however was amazing thanks in part to that monsoon damage 🙂 The villages and villagers were great but were suffering from lack of trade. We ended in Pharplu where my friend is based – lots of untouched riding to be had there…which is why he’s there! Long rides up and long rides down to the river – very good times! That would be a good place to base yourself if you like to pay for your downhills.

Jomsom and the upper mustang area is also amazing riding – the Annupurna circuit touches on some of the riding up there but there is so much more – another friend is currently route finding up there…I didn’t spend nearly enough time up there as I should have…and the flight in is even better then Lukla – more dangerous as well!

Your trip sounds like an amazing adventure which is what you get in Nepal…

Thanks Lucky. Jomsom upwards is incredible. I went to Kagbeni 23 years ago and it was an exceptional moment for me to be back last year on a bike. The tracks or rather scenery and feel of the place in that area were the best of the whole trip and great to be talking to the goat herders all heading to KTM or Pokhara for Dashain. Not so great for the goats.I look up the valley to Mustang and really want to go up there but still only allowed in with organised trips and I like going at my own pace. Meet someone local who I can communicate with I’ll happily spend a day chatting to them, bit of a problem on scheduled trips.May have to go and sneak in on my bike. If any of your mates are running trips feel free to pass on their websites. KTM is the most exciting place to ride for a few days though your lungs and life expectancy may diminish rapidly! Lots of monsoon damage on the circuit last year huge sections of avalanche to carry bikes over which was fun. Ta for the reply, happy peddling.