I officially hate removing the rear wheel from track ends. eg Genesis Longitude is wrongly described in many places (including **** Genesis’ own website!) as having ‘horizontal sliding dropouts’

It has track ends, which (coupled with a rear-mech) conspire to destroy fingers, patience and powdercoat in equal measures.

What am I doing wrong? I pre-shift to lower cogs/rings. Then the fun begins.

A 10mm through axle conversion will make it easier to remove the wheel, at the expense of making it harder to fit back. I did this on my Escapade because I couldn’t remove the wheel with mudguards on.

shift to lowest gear ,

Put on your gloves

remove chain – pull over drop out

REmove wheel.

be thankful that the frame designer cheaped out on the drop outs and that you now have to live with them.

Paragon drop outs really are worth the extra cost.

I like the look of the Surly ones that let you remove it down/forwards but without having to have a forward facing slot.

In general I like them though. Every other design (swinging, sliding, EBB’s) has moving parts or threads, or dissimilar metals, which mean they fail eventually. With tubeless tiers it’s pretty rare to need to get the wheel out anyway.

I agree though, specking them on a geared bike is a stupid idea. You’re already paying for the cost and complexity of gears, so the argument for a simple singlespeedable dropout is null.

With tubeless tiers it’s pretty rare to need to get the wheel out anyway.

How big is your/your friend’s car? 🤣 *edit Also – it’s not named a ‘Longitude’ for compact wheelbase 😉

This is also a multi-purpose bike so tyre changes, mudguard fittings/removals, etc are frequent

In general I like them though

Snap. For singlespeed/fixie etc. But for geared they are Satan’s squirrely anus.

A 10mm through axle conversion will make it easier to remove the wheel,

How does one do this? (Hope Pro 2 Evo so hopeful…)

How big is your/your friend’s car? 🤣

I did think of that as I typed it, I can get a bike in with the back wheel on in the current car!

The old one on the other hand…………

How does one do this? (Hope Pro 2 Evo so hopeful…)

Endcaps are Hope kit HUB239 and the axle can be anything, although the options have dried out as of late – the only one that seems to be consistently available (and arguably, the best of the bunch) is the DT one ( https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=DT+Swiss+RWS+Thru-Bolt+10x135mm&_sacat=0 )

Thanks for that. Currently using ‘secure’ skewers that require a key to deter opportunists at the grocery stop. Could always buy an alarm lock/cable for not a lot.

A very odd choice for a geared frame, sounds like a cheap bodge way of making/selling a frame. Still if people buy them… 🙂

Rebuild your Hope hub with the bolt in axle similar to the singlespeed hub – 135mm axle with M10 bolts at each end. Remove bolts – wheel drops out vertically.

Some of my ss dropouts below:-

Some of my ss dropouts below:-

Who made those, they look ace. Presumably they only work with an almost magic ratio or half link type setup?

What am I doing wrong? I pre-shift to lower cogs/rings. Then the fun begins.

Using cogs instead of sprockets?

I made them (CAD, then cnc plasma cut, a bit of lathe work and brazed together).

Enough adjustment for most ratios (or a half link if reqd).

Some more here.