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  • Top bearing stuck in Headset
  • dumbbot
    Member

    Right, winter overhaul was going well until I got to the last thing, the top bearing in the headset. It;s a Stanton Super Serious headset.

    The bottom bearing popped out no worries, seals off, cleaned and re-greased. The top one is rough as ****, needs replacing but I can’t get it out..? I don’t know if this is common, or if just jamming a screwdriver in and trying to jimmy it out is very wise.

    Any wisdom to share?

    neilwheel
    Member

    It only takes a little grit or rust to bind up, a good spray lube to try and wash it out. Best to try and drift it out from underneath, keep moving the drift around on the bearing to walk it out. Don’t just hit it on one side, you can ovalise the seat. Pry it out as a last resort.

    Have one of those electric hand-held hot air gun?

    First apply WD 40 or similar. Then carefully heat the headset up.
    The aluminium will expand a bit more than the steel outer race of the bearing.

    But you still might have to use a small hammer/screwdriver thing. But the hot air gun thing will make it easier to get the bearing out.

    Too much heat will ruin stickers on the headset so…
    Good luck?
    😉

    dumbbot
    Member

    Thank Neil, …

    Any recommendations where to get a replacement? .

    I could order them from Stanton https://www.stantonbikes.com/product/super-series-headset-replacement-bearings/

    Dont need the bottom one though, what size/type is the top bearing?

    neilwheel
    Member

    Sorry, no idea on sizing, but that does seem excessive for a couple of bearings.

    The original may have the size engraved on the casing, otherwise you will need to measure it, if you have a vernier gauge or micrometer. Someone else might have done this and know the size already, maybe start a new thread with a more specific title.

    Simplybearings or Bearingboys should have replacements.

    taxi25
    Member

    Dont need the bottom one though, what size/type is the top bearing?

    I’d get the 2. I go through bottom bearings much quicker than the top one. It’ll need changing soon enough. You might find the bearings elsewhere but they might be a manufacturers special order and not generally available. I’m thinking about my Canyon cf ultimate slx with that.

    dumbbot
    Member

    I hear you, I was very surprised at the poor condition of the top bearing considering how nice the bottom one was… always assumed this one was subjected to all the crud and stress.

    Stanton are out of office till January, not sure how long these are supposed to last but it was installed in May and for premium bearings that doesn’t seem such good longevity. Not sure if my maintenance is off or perhaps Stanton bearings aren’t all that great.

    neilwheel
    Member

    I’d be inclined to get it out, clean up, pick out the seals, rinse and re-pack. Re-install with waterproof grease, you should be able to ride for a bit longer unless it’s totally knackered.

    dumbbot
    Member

    It’s knackered, can barely rotate it,…I would be surprised if it can be salvaged.

    srshaw
    Member

    I installed a hope headset into my Stanton Sherpa. The bearing slid in and out easily to the top cup before installation, but once installed into the frame, it needed ‘encouragent’ to seat it. I would just tap it out and replace. If you could measure it I would be tempted to get a skf or similar.

    dumbbot
    Member

    Well I drenched the thing in WD40 fast release penetrating fluid, and attempted to drift it out from underneath as described. I was very gentle, but all i’ve succeeded in doing it twatting out the inner bearing race, leaving the outer still stuck in the cups.

    What now? Do I need a new headset? I’ve further drenched it in penetrating fluid and leaving it, it’s too bloody cold in the garage and i’m fed up. 😥

    gotbike
    Member

    Penetrating fluid might just need a bit more time to soak in – leave it a couple of hours then see what happens. In my experience cartridge bearings take very little force to fall apart so it’s not too surprising the bearing fell apart first before the outer race came out!

    You can always buy only a top part of the headset and keep the bottom (more expensive) part – as for replacing the bottom bearing if you measure the dimensions there are plenty of places that will work out the bearing for you from the dimensions.

    Cane creek in my experience have always been very painless getting bearings in and out of the cups when the time comes, and I think a little cheaper than hope as well.

    Have one of those electric hand-held hot air gun?
    First apply WD 40 or similar. Then carefully heat the headset up.
    The aluminium will expand a bit more than the steel outer race of the bearing.

    You tried this?
    Was no joke…

    You need some time to heat the headset up. The bike frame will suck lots of energy away.
    But the heat gun is pretty good in putting concentrated heat onto a part like a headset.
    Only be carefulls to heat slow and to stop before paint or stickers will suffer. Range of 100 deg C or so.

    The headset cup is from aluminium.
    Will expand a lot more than the outer bearing race…

    Sounds like you had a lot of moisture in this part.
    Steel and aluminium plus moisture forms a battery…- locally seizes stuff together.

    But sounds you are on the best way to need a complete new upper headset.

    If so:
    I try this one now:
    https://www.uberbikecomponents.com/category/441/Headsets

    Recommendation here somewhere in the forum.
    Sick of crappy, expensive headsets.

    Don’t have uberbikecomponents headset put in yet. But looks o.k..
    From finish like a 100 buck headset. If it will last more than a year I don’t know.

    Good luck!

    neilwheel
    Member

    As above try some heat, hot air gun or boiling water.

    Old screwdriver, file or grind the the tip down and put a bend in it to use as a pry bar.

    If you have a dremel and the right bit, you can remove some material in 2 or 3 places, to make the outer race more flexible.

    It sounds like it was installed dry and/or has poor sealing, as above, maybe a full new top set would be a better bet.

    If you have a dremel and the right bit, you can remove some material in 2 or 3 places

    good hint. Need good eyes and a calm hand so…
    Difficult to sense how deep to go with the dremel. 😥

    Good strategy so to weaken the outer race.

    dumbbot
    Member

    I tried again this morning, left over night with penetrating fluid…don’t have a heatgun but tried an old hairdryer & a steam cleaner thing. It’s not moving anywhere.

    I’m not going near my frame with a dremel so it looks like its off to the bike shop, new headset and no riding over new year for me. 🙁

    It always seems there is something to go wrong with these contraptions, getting hacked off with it.

    new headset and no riding over new year for me

    Shit happens…!

    but 2018 will be still a great mountain bike year, the headset soon is forgotten/history!
    😉

    neilwheel
    Member

    Crap timing OP!

    A lot of people do install cartridge bearings dry or with a smear of grease, personally I put a decent layer of waterproof grease in with them just for weather protection.

    personally I put a decent layer of waterproof grease in with them just for weather protection.

    😉
    Yes. Also for “sealed bearings”. Tons of grease everywhere were different metals get “mixed”.
    Steel outer race to aluminium cup…
    Add moisture and “time” …

    dumbbot
    Member

    Update: LBS has saved the day, by removing the headset cup they could apply more heat without damaging the frame and pop out the remnants for the old bearing race…new bearing fitted and did mention it was a tight fit.

    However I did question the gap that I’d never noticed before between the top ‘seal’ where I could see the compression ring, LBS confirmed new bearing was seated properly and pointed out that most headsets have a rubber grommet where as the Stanton Super-Series has

    The headset relies on precision machining and two extra 0.2mm aluminium bearing covers rather than perishable rubber seals to keep out moisture

    LBS tried has tried to bodge a grommet. My conclusion in all of this is that Stanton headsets are shit, the sealing isn’t up to much and it make sense given the symptoms I’ve just experienced. You live and learn, best start saving for a Chris King.

    but tried an old hairdryer & a steam cleaner thing.

    yes – not enough power. The frame sucks the (too much) heat away…

    they could apply more heat without damaging the frame

    great!

    The headset relies on precision machining and two extra 0.2mm aluminium bearing covers rather than perishable rubber seals to keep out moisture

    doesn’t sound too good.
    Additional to the “sealed bearing” there should be a second seal…(- also an o ring to the steerer tube.)
    “Second” seal: normally not of great design either. But filled up all with grease…
    (Low cost https://www.uberbikecomponents.com/category/441/Headsets
    headsets have these “two seals…”)

    But problem is solved.
    Great!
    😛

Viewing 21 posts - 1 through 21 (of 21 total)

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