So after the Merida CX was binned i was thinking. “What do we need then…”
Of course the answer is ‘nothing’ but you know how it is, you want the new the shiny and the Wooooah.
Reading a STW thread earlier about Ti frames there were multiple replies of “Well it will crack but my Stanton is amazing”
I’ve often lusted after a Sherpa frame, but thought it was time to jump feet first in and get one.
Whether i’ll use this just as a generic HT, or whether i’ll set it up for Belgium longer term as a rigid i’m still not sure. I don’t have quite enough parts to build a complete bike, but i think i’m only a pair of bars and a front shifter away from it. So no reason at all why the Parkwood can’t stay and be used for either or as well. But the odds are fairly high that the Parkwood frame will get retired and put into storage as a ‘just in case’ of complete failure etc.
The geometry was correct for what i needed, it allows a standard threaded bottom bracket, tapered headset and a 30.9 seatpost to allow my dropper. So all in all, it’s pretty much perfect
The Parkwood has seen me right for 3 years now, fractionally more actually. As it was bought as a budget HT just for a short term, i think i can be pretty pleased with how it’s lasted.
For now i’ve gone for QR back end as my wheel i don’t think is compatible with 142×12 but it has swappable dropouts so i have the option to move to 142×12 etc at some stage of the future. But for now, QR is fine and happy.
“I suspect it would benefit from a 2.6″ tyre at the back if you want to go anywhere gnarly.”
Maybe it’s just me but I’m not convinced by high volume rear tyres. A true 2.3” seems to hit a better balance of precision vs comfort vs speed, and Rimpact foam inserts make it easier to find the right pressure without suffering pinch flats when it gets gnarly.
I haven’t tried the heavier casing big tyres though, maybe they let you run low enough pressures for it not to feel “boingy” without suffering squirm as soon as you pump a tight fast turn?
My biggest decision at the moment is whether to go 142×12 on the back end.
Using their dropouts you can have whatever back end you want really, but my Kickr Snap is QR only unless i buy the conversion kit. £50 !!!!! I’ll also need a conversion kit for my Mavic hub, but again that’s a quick change… But i think going 142×12 even at a higher cost is going to be my preference.
Although it may depend upon what they have in stock as i bought from a 3rd party, not directly from Stanton.
Regarding tyres, it will get what i have in the bike currently for now, which is Maxxis Crossmark II’s in 2.25/2.3 or so.
I’m currently undergoing a major upgrade to my Sherpa. I love the frame so much I’m spending my money on fancy fork, wheels etc. rather than getting a new bike.
I’m going boost, so will have 12×142 swapouts and axle going spare soon*
As above, I’ve done the 2.8 thing but hugely prefer my 2.3/2.25 for my type of riding. It’s such a versatile bike, you’re bound to love it!
* not to mention bars, stem, two wheelsets, dropper and fork also
In simple terms, blazing bikes had 0% over a longer term than Stanton themselves. That’s the only reason really, saved me spending my own money as it was just pennies over a longer term
Bought one in early May – British Racing Green as full-build from Stanton: SLX 1×11 with XT cassette, 120mm Reba forks, Dropper etc.
Awesome bike – have ridden it non-stop since. Last weekend was Ben Cleuch, Andrew Gannel – which has a 720m descent.
Came with Goodyear tyres. Back one was shredded in days so put a Nobby Nic on (2.3). Swapped to an SDG saddle. Other than that – it’s still riding as it came out the box. Grintastic
My Mrs has one of the first generation Sherpas and it’s been great. We’ve both got other bikes that get ridden more, but the Sherpa is a definite keeper.
I really liked my Sherpa. Very comfortable, capable frame, but I sold it and bought a Sonder signal Ti, which is just as comfortable, probably a little more capable and lighter.
I currently have a Sonder Signal, but now looking for something a bit more xc and pedally with the odd QECP blue. Is the Sherpa Ti a good bike for all day rides on the South Downs?
It’s a good all round bike anywhere, Wheelie. Whether ti is worth it over steel I wouldn’t know.
Crispin – is that mudhuggers on yours? How effective are they? I think I’m going to have to abandon my aesthetic pretensions and mudguard up for the winter, given how swampy it is already!
Mudhuggers are great – work really well and are rock solid on the bike.
Front one could do with being an inch-longer to keep all the dirt out my face but work OK.
Rear one is off the bike at the moment – must have been very wet for me to fit it (in July!). Really keeps your arse dry!
PS: I used to have a ti-hardtail and snapped it – and a Cotic and snapped it, and several other steel bikes which I’ve broken in various ways 🙂 Hopefully this bike is for life.
Trench is very trenchy. Was mint back in June but last weekend was a wee bit overgrown and a small section had slipped: 8/10.
Rode it with Thump, my 13-year old and he had a brilliant time with just 4 crashes 🙂
Ben Ever / Woodhill is also an excellent variation from Ben Cleuch. Also now a windfarm towards Upper Glendevon but everything else is as it was. Happy days.
I currently have a Sonder Signal, but now looking for something a bit more xc and pedally with the odd QECP blue. Is the Sherpa Ti a good bike for all day rides on the South Downs?
If that’s what you’re after, I can recommend the Sonder Broken Rd. I picked up an ex demo bike at a good price, and have been very pleasantly surprised by how capable and comfortable it is. Way lighter than my wife’s Stanton with equivalent kit.
I think back to the few months I had with my Next Gen Sherpa with fondness, alas for me, the chainstays were just too short. It was great at nearly everything, but I couldnt get on with it going uphill.
With the Axle stuff and changes it was starting to get ridiculous as i need the bike to be both an indoor and outdoor bike. So i’d need another set of axles for the 142×12 setup on the Wahoo or run it in QR mode, i’d also need another rear wheel in 142×12 along with some end caps for my current wheel, that’s then adding on about £250 to the price.
I then sat and thought “What am i actuall getting here” and the answer is, very very little. Arguably a heavier frame than i have… but handles better… Well, it would if i used it off-road, but 99% of it’s rides i won’t be anyway as for off-road i’m always going to pick the T-130 over this. So my question i guess to myself was “apart from a pretty painted frame, is there any real point?”