Contemplating buying some Sram Code RSC brakes.

The REs I have on the bike are good brakes but I find the sudden onset of of massive stopping power a bit unnerving. Basically it’s slow, slow, slow then WHIPLASH!

Just wondering if anyone has experience of both brake types and if the RSCs are bit easier to modulate / predict?

Personally found the Codes good for modulation, certainly not on/off plus, being RSC, you can adjust the bit point on them unlike the Guide RE

I have Guide Ultimates on RE Calipers, some G2 Ultimates on Codes and some straight outright Code RSC’s

The Guide ultimate probably is the best modulating of the lot, then the full Code.

With the straight RE’s I think it’s down to they use the sh*tty Guide R lever, with no swing link, or any adjustment ability.

Cheapest option would be to buy some used Guide RSC, swap the levers over to the RE Calipers & then just flog the Guides as RE levers & standard Guide Calipers (which is basically a Guide R).

Code levers deal with heat better than the guide ones if you’re planning on alpine descents.

I had thought about just addressing the levers. Pity you can’t buy the levers as separates!

Thanks to you all for your advice.

Just for balance I’ve owned guide ultimates, rsc and have code rsc on three bikes right now.

I’d go with the code rsc over the ultimates. Modulation is fine and in my subjective experience is better than the ultimates.

No harm in having a bit more brake power in reserve

I have 3 Code R’s and 1 Guide RE (proper to that I had 4 sets of Guide R’s.

The Guide RE has a good slug of power more than the Guide R’s but I wouldn’t say it’s extremely on/off like Shimano.

In comparison I’d say the Code R’s have got more outright power and a firmly lever (and generally feels a better quality brake – especially the lever itself). I think the Codes modulate really well, plus they’re easier to bleed than the Guide RE (which doesn’t have a bleeding edge caliper).

The good thing is the Guide RE and the Codes all use the same pads so if you have a stock of Guide RE pads but switch to Codes then you can still use them.

So in conclusion the Code R is definitely better than the Guide RE and modulates well in my opinion.

I’ve not tried an RSC but assume as well as bite point it would have swinglink as well? If so then modulation should be even better than the R’s.

2xCode R’s are on my full susser and then I have a Code R front and Guide RE rear on my hardtail. I don’t think you can have too much braking power personally!

Thanks for that. Glad of the braking power but it’s controlling it is my issue.

What pads have you got in the RE? I haven’t tried a bike with RE at both ends – mine’s just on the back. Can’t say I’ve struggled with it skidding particularly – both bikes (especially the one with codes at both ends) can properly be stood on their nose if you want, or you can just feather them to brush off a bit of speed.

I do have shimano road hydraulics on my Caad12. They’re a bit more on/off but still not too bad. You do have to be careful not to endo / stoppie the road bike though if you really haul on the brakes as you’re aiming to come to a stop. I like that way more than rim brakes which aren’t so good imo.

I have a pair of Guide R’s for sale if anyone wants them. Used twice. Rear will need a bleed thanks to internal routing (but will add some olives).

I’m running the pads from the factory.

It’s that endo thing which is the issue for me. If you need to lose a bit of speed in a hurry it’s as if there’s no option to slow down rapidly. It’s just a sudden jump from slowing a bit to an abrupt stop with you being thrown forwards on the bike.

I think working on braking technique goes a long way. If you’re going over the bars or cant stop the back wheel coming up, I’d say its more to do with learning better braking technique than there being a problem with any particular brake.

@carbonroadrat I had considered the problem was with me rather than the brakes. However, the thing which niggled me most was when I thought about how the Hope brakes on my last bike operated. As you will know, the Hopes don’t have the same blunt stopping power as the Codes so I had thought I had learned braking skills by necessity through using the Hopes. Perhaps not though.

@shooterman That wasn’t aimed directly at you btw!

I now run the same brakes on my 3 bikes. I first started using code rsc brakes nearly 3 years ago and have since changed to code rsc across the board now. bleed procedure being the same etc

But it initially took a while to adapt to the feel of them. I actually thought they were too powerful but it was because of the lever feel that I was used to. I was used to grabbing big handfuls. So it did feel like it was easier to go over the bars. But I made a conscious effort to experiment with really feathering the brakes. Experimenting just riding up and down the road outside the house helped.

Obviously lever set up is highly personal, bite point, lever throw etc but now I’ve adapted to mine I don’t think I’d ever use another brand or model.

Also worth experimenting with lever throw and bite point. There seems to be a few different schools of thought on this.
I used to be firmly in the ‘minimal lever throw, instant bite point and levers not coming close to the bar’ camp.

But after hearing Brett Tippie explain how he ran his levers, closer to the bar with more throw as he felt it helped him keep a better grip on the bar and less arm pump. I’ve recently gave it a try, its pretty much the opposite of how I used to like my lever set up but now I feel I’ve been doing it wrong all these years.
But theres no right and wrong way I suppose. Its just finding something that feels right.

You can make yourself some ghetto Code RS. I bought some Guide RS levers and attached them to my Guide RE calipers and now I have my ideal lever feel, plenty of power with good modulation….. And I saved a shed load of wonga and bought myself some new fancy pants… So win win for me.

No offence taken but a gentleman to clarify your thoughts nonetheless carbonroadrat. I suppose I miss that subtlety from the Hopes. Perhaps they spoiled me.

I suspect another factor is that I’m running a 200mm rotor up front. Slightest touch of the front and it’s a near endo.

Sensing a lot of love on STW for RSC levers of diverse flavors matched with code calipers.

I suspect another factor is that I’m running a 200mm rotor up front. Slightest touch of the front and it’s a near endo.

Yeah this could be a factor if you moved from a 180 rotor.

I recently changed the rear rotor from 180 to 200 since I had a spare kicking about. Only because of the ‘more power is always better’ idea but I’m thinking of going back to 180 as feathering the back brake became harder.
Pulling a long smooth manual has alway eluded me and since lock down i’ve been trying to practice but the slightest touch of the lever brings the front wheel slamming down instantly. Feel like the 180 rotor might help

I would agree 200 may be too much.

I went from a 27.5 to a 29er which felt a lot faster. Also, the bike came with Sram level TLM brakes which felt frighteningly underpowered. I think I may have gone too far with the 200 up front.