Ive had 8 different units of these over the last 3 years fail with the usual sticky pistons in the master cylinder, usually takes 2 weeks to 7 weeks to get them back from Sram (so called) tech centre via my LBS, had them all R, RS, RSC, etc,

The latest RE 2020 brakes are no different, had my Specilaised 6 weeks, and they are at it again, ffs SRAM what are they doing, time they took their head out of the sand or other oriface, and get this sorted, quality control is zero, pathetic, and they should be avoided at all costs.

Managed to get piston re build kits if its any help from SLAM69 in Gloucester, Graham has them in stock, £10 each, and was great on service.

Back to shimano 4 good !

You’ve been unlucky. No issues in years and they’re awesome brakes.

I use these, albeit with Guide Ultimate levers and another set with G2 Ultimate levers & they have been the most reliable, best brakes I have ever used 🙂

I think the problem comes from using the shyte Guide R levers as standard for them. They are nasty.

Certainly wouldn’t be swapping them for Shimano though 😆

Back to shimano 4 good

yeah, they’ll be fine.

I’ve currently got the same problem with my code rsc. Is it when the lever is slow to return and doesnt just bounce back?

If so it’s the 2nd time it’s happened to me. So also thinking of another brand.

You’ve been unlucky. No issues in years and they’re awesome brakes.

No they’re not. Avid brakes are shite. They always have been and always will be. That’s why they had to change the name.

The only reason anyone has them is because loads of bikes come fitted with them OEM

Luckily Shimano have got their shit together with twelve speed so hopefully more less bikes will come with shite Avid stuff.

😁

Everyone I know with Guide brakes of various types has had issues with them. I’ve never encountered the variable but point issues that Shimano brakes are supposed to have.

JP

Thats interesting, I’ve SRAM brakes on my Capra and Jeffsy – they work perfectly all the time, every time. I give the calipers a good squirt with the hose when washing the bike, but thats all I do as far as maintenance goes. Never needed a bleed. Just new pads once or twice a year.

You’ll find folk who always have issues with Shimano. Been running Guide RS for 4 years, and the only thing I did was replace the lever piston as it was an early model which got sticky in direct summer sun. That’s when I bled them and the fluid was clear. I do tend to keep the caliper clean and regularly give the pads/pistons a quick squirt of brake cleaner then rinse off.

Whether dirty callipers cause more problems, I don’t know, or indeed luck !

Don’t get too excited about shimano – the on/off thing you can get used to but with my XTs (8000) I have to do a mini bleed once a month to get the air out. Not convinced by the mineral oil when in heavy use either. Did a full bleed before Morzine last year, then had to replace my brown oil a couple of weeks later.

Hope or trickstuff??

My REs are the only pair of SRAM brakes to work properly but they scream appallingly in the wet. Any suggestions for pads that don’t make a racket?

Can be lots of issues as well as pads to be honest.

@fog the uberbike e-matrix pads are pretty good IME, as are the guide REs for what it’s worth

If you’ve had bad luck with sram (sounds like you have) I wouldn’t rush to buy Shimano brakes right now. So many magazine reviews are highlighting variable bite point on the XT ones at the moment and it’s well documented on forums about the bite point and ropey seals that micro leak on callipers.

I’d be looking at Magura 4 pots with the nicer 1 finger alloy levers personally.

Just been in contact with sram, who also want my brake back for warranty. So I’ll be without a brake for god knows how long.

I’ve been looking into magura to be honest too. They arent without their issues. Over torquing the lever bolts I think I’ll be okay with… it’s not getting them to bleed properly, and if I brake a lever in france or austria will I be able to get spares?

Hope seem to be the most reliable, just havent got the power for me

Well you could just buy some SLX brakes, cheapish but very effective. Then get a second set from Chainreaction/Wiggle for your French / Austria trip. If you dont need them send them back. Saves you from no bike abroad or pant dropping spares prices while out there.

Whatever brakes you buy dont forget lots of people have issues and I reckon a lot of it comes from sticky pistons / leaky seals. Both these issues point to dirt / brake dust contamination on the pistons. Just stick the hose on the caliper after every ride, wash the crap out. Takes a few seconds, can save you a lot of problems.

There really isnt much to a set of brakes, any make of brake and they all work the same way. So apart from manufacturing tolerances, just keep them clean.

Well I’m looking to change back to SRAM as all my other bikes run them so I’d be open to swaps for my six 8000 setup…

No issues with RE brakes in 2500 miles. Had 4 sets of Shimano, all had the moving bite point when the bike was put on it’s side in the car or upside down, got sick of having to remove the wheels to pump the pistons back out.

Hope V4 should have the power hopefully, assuming the E4is too weedy. I’d still pick up some Magura MT5’s I think.

To caveat this I’m running 3 sets of sram hydraulic brakes and have run 3 or 5 other pairs with no issues. Had guide R’s / guide RS / currently got Guide RE / Code R / Level T and no problems with any of them.

Also got shimano roadie hydraulics and so far they’ve been ok – but they get very regular commuting use which is likely to help them stay reliable.

You need these alu pistons. Aluminium doesn’t swell like the rubbish plastic that SRAM seem to use. Swollen plastic pistons jam, hence the not returning problem.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ALUMINUM-ALLOY-BIKE-BICYCLE-BRAKE-LEVER-PISTON-FOR-SRAM-GUIDE-LEVE-REPAIR-KIT-UK/202706182204?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649