My son has this bike 2018 Remedy
PF92 BB, SRAM NX 11×1 cranks (boost). On our Father’s Day ride today, his non-drive crank arm fell off. How he didn’t feel it going I dunno (also why I didn’t check it for tightness, I do not have an answer to!)
Something’s gotta give in these situations and the splines in the arm were the victims today. As was the BB bearing cover, which we seem to have neglected to collect out of the mud.
So,
1/ are these 11 speed cranks available as a new item if we were to replace? Going round in circles trying to comprehend another chainset standard!
2/ I’ve seen bearing covers on Sigmasport, but none say BB92 (found an old FSA crank arm that fits, so could survive with just this til he gets a new crank), so can the bearing cover be replaced, or is it a new BB?
3/ Stop messing with all this SRAM crap and tell him to get a Shimano? (my usual option in these situations!)

thanks!

The splines in the crank arm were stripped out?

Sounds like it’s been suffering from a lack of maintenance for quite a while! I’m still using my 2013 XO cranks which have survived many frame swaps. I’d not be blaming SRAM quality for this failure!

Do you know if the cracks are GXP or DUB? It doesn’t really make a huge difference, except that you’ll need to change BB if you change axle standards. For 2018, it’s probably GXP which is SRAM’s slightly older standard. You can get replacement GXP or DUB cranks.

There’s no difference between 11 speed and 12 speed cranks at all. If they’re boost, the chainrings are different (compared to non boost) but you could swap the boost onto a new (SRAM) crank anyway, you if you found a pair of ‘non boost’ SRAM cranks that would work.

Re bearing covers: I’d ask in a shop, they may have some kicking around.

The splines in the crank arm were stripped out?

Sounds like it’s been suffering from a lack of maintenance for quite a while!

Nope. Riding along with a loose bolt will almost always damage the splines when the crank falls off, it only takes one time. Obviously SRAM have a stupidly high torque requirement.

I’d not be blaming SRAM quality for this failure!

Useful comment. Maybe you should’ve read my whole post.

I would only change to Shimano personally to get the latest 12 speed version with the direct mount chainring. I’ve been running some X9 gxp cranks for years without issues so I quite like them(not such a fan of Sram gears though)

Superficial

Do you know if the cracks are GXP or DUB?

Yeah, sorry – should’ve said, they are as specced on the 2018 bike: GXP.

f they’re boost, the chainrings are different (compared to non boost) but you could swap the boost onto a new (SRAM) crank anyway

Good to know, thanks. Maybe I’ll get him to splash out on the cheap Decathlon cranks then. these’d do..
Dub cranks
cheers 🙂

Yeah, those cranks should work either way. If they’re Boost then you can use the included chainring. If not you’ll have to swap them (it wasn’t clear from the description). You’ll need a new BB, though.

Yeah, not a good time to be breaking stuff and changing standard, stock of dub BBs is a little bit sparse to say the least. Fingers and toes all crossed on an ebay purchase!

Those cranks from Decarhlon are DUB, so won’t fit your GXP BB. You will need a DUB BB but there’s not much stock about.

Maybe try ebay for some used GXP cranks.

You will need a DUB BB

Yep, ordered one from Ebay, reckon it’ll be coming from China, but there’s no rush as I bodged the old FSA crank arm on.

Right so, got Dub BB from ebay fitted, by some miracle it’s the right one, BB92 pressfit an all that.
I have this washer/spacer/cover with the bb….

Logic tells me it goes drive side betwixt crank & bearings? Does kinda seem like it would be a better fit if it did though… Can’t find in the instructions, youtube, manuals, anything! to confirm this… anyone know please??

^^ Watching with interest to store in my rather leaky memory bank for future use.

You’ll have 2 spacers a 4.5 and a 2…

They’re to shim to frame size. You measured shell width

The thin one for BB92. On the drive side. It’s meant to clip in to place which is sometimes easier said than done….. I tend to wind the preload collar on the non drive side crank to what would normally add way too much preload to the bearings, install the drive side crank with the plastic spacer in place. tighten down the crank bolt just enough for the spacer to get pushed into place. Then back off the preload collar all the way. Tighten the crank arm bolt to spec (48 billion Nm….) and finally adjust the preload collar correctly.

Or something like that….. Probably easier to do than type…..

Thanks chaps!
Got it walleater – makes sense from what I remember doing last night. Did something similar and then poked a screwdriver down the gap and could get some movement from the spacer thing. Seemed like it should fit better than that, but at least I got it in the right place 😀 Will have another go.

Wasn’t any other spacers with the BB, but measured it and was 92mm, so presumed I’d got the right one. There’s so many different specs these days eh! Didn’t buy my bearing press that long ago, but it hasn’t got dub sized cups.

That thin spacer should probably just clip into the drive side bb cup – assuming the press fit ones work the same as the bsa screw fit ones. I guess if it doesn’t when you tighten the cranks it should just push in then.

When you do the preload collar it’s just hand tight to take any side to side play out of the system then do you the small Allen key in the collar to stop it spinning. It doesn’t need much torque at all – otherwise it’ll just strip the thread out of the plastic collar.

Once fitted my dub bb / crank has basically been fit and forget. Much less prone to creaks / clicks than my gxp one.

Cheers!
Interesting about the creaks, just test rode and there’s a horrible creak if I push hard on the cranks in a certain position. Could be that the BB isn’t in quite tight enough, I didn’t wanna go overboard with pressing in the cups, cos the Remedy seems to have an odd plastic sleeve on the driveside – doesn’t seem that strong (plastic rather than carbon!?)
Might give them another press.

I’m not familiar with bb92 but on bb30 you just press the bearings in until they hit the Circlip that’s meant to stop them going in too far. With the bmx I’ve just picked up that has a lip that you press the bearing flush against. Would have thought the bb92 should have something like that.

The actual BB has a lip that stops it going too far into the frame. There’s slight damage on the drive side of the bb shell. Not sure what would’ve caused it (chain dismount maybe), could be the problem. Nothing major anyway.

Pressed in bit harder, creak even worse. Gawd, wish I’d never touched the thing!