just quickly put together a new spark rc. the twinlock is very very stiff and I can only get 2 modes rather than 3 as I can’t push the lever far enough.

what do I need to tweak? cables to tight on the shock and fork?

I *think* you need to cable up the rear shock first, fully open, and play with the adjuster on the twinlock until operating the twinlock lever into full lockout works without too much pressure. Once that works cable up the front shock with the twinlock fully open. Just thread the cable into the slot in the top cap and nip up the grub screw trying not to turn the top cap while doing so.

Hmmm it’s already all fitted as it came out of the box, so sounds like I need to redo it?

I also don’t seem to have a manual anywhere, which I’d expect to explain how to fit and maintain the twin lock, anyone who has bought a new Scott did you get a manual?

I didn’t get any service manuals with mine, bought 2 weeks ago.
Perhaps try to slacken off the twinlock cable adjusters first. If that doesnt work then try undoing the cables at the shocks making sure they are both fully open before clamping the cables up again. I did this as my bike was fitted with too much cable outer so I cut them shorter and refitted the inners. All worked fine.

All the manuals can be found on Scott’s website https://www.scott-sports.com/gb/en/manuals-bike

Sounds like one of the cables is too tight. Cant the dealer sort it for you?

Otherwise – with everything set to ‘open’ and the adjusters all backed off you could try to loosen off the grub screw on fork so that it’s cable will move freely. I would do the fork first as its probably more accessible. Dont totally undo the grub: keep the cable in there – just allow it to move without turning the fork dial.

Then get it working for the rear shock (which may need the same treatment to loosen off the cable).

I found the service instructions on the Fox site had detailed instructions for setting up the twinlock after a fork strip down. Assuming its a fox fork: try entering your code (stamped on your lowers) to look up the service manual. You wont need most of the instructions: but it gives some pointers.

I changed the cable on my front one at the weekend, so I’ll describe the process for that which may help you with the rear.

a) With the cable removed – thread new cable & housing into the lever at the bar – click it into the “locked” position

b) loosen the grub screw on the blue RHS “knob” on the fork – the one that tightens onto the cable when its in

c) Using a 5mm Allen key on the top of the blue knob, turn the blue knob on top of the fork clockwise until it comes to a stop – this is the locked position

d) holding the Allen key/knob in the locked position, with the other hand (I know!) thread the lever cable through the guide around the blue knob anti clockwise under the grub screw, and with some reasonable tension on the cable tighten the grub screw onto the cable.  Test, use the lever end barrel adjust to fine tune, but you are done now.  As you release the lever it’ll go to traction then open.   Cut cable and crimp a thingy on the end.

I’m assuming the shock is the same e.g you should have the bar lever in the locked position first, and the blue adjuster wound to “lock” threading the cable with reasonable tension and tightening with the grub screw, and when the lever is released it falls to Traction then Open modes.

So the process is reversed – install it “tight” in locked mode, then it loosen to Traction & Open

Thanks guys I’ll have a crack tomorrow, it’s a rs Sid.

No dice taking back to dealer as I bought mailorder, asked my lbs to match which they declined to do, even though they have a price match policy. I like to support local but not if it costs me nearly £800….

Any other tips around setting up suspension / bike? I’ve not had a new bike for quite a long time…

Is pats a spark pro, first i impressions are the xtr also feels very tough to shift compared to my 10 speed xtr setup. And the bars are a bit narrow, grips a bit red…

Any other tips around setting up suspension / bike? I’ve not had a new bike for quite a long time….

The tips for my RC which were invaluable are:

a) The rear shock setup is sensitivity to pressure and a little fickle, you need it softer than you think.  Set pressure in open mode, bouncing the bike 12 times to equalise pos/neg.  FWIW I’m 79kg and am at 144psi (Fox DPS Nude).

b) Ignore the yellow clip on sag markers they are incorrect, you need to go for mm from the lip of the seal on the shaft.  The stroke is 40mm, so 30% sag is 12mm for example.

c) Ride – “ride” it in Traction mode by default, leaving “Open” for DH and technical trail only – its not advertised but thats the intended use and once you discover that the bike rocks.  watch for pedal strikes in Open the bike is fast & low. You’d be surprised how supple Traction mode is off the top.

Good luck and I hope you enjoy it – a lovely bike!

Thanks kryton, I’ve been running a heavily upgraded scale for sometime so looking forward to having some rear suspension to take a bit of the sting out of rougher trails.

Did you find the rear derailer cable sticks out and looks like it will get caught around the first branch it sees?

I didnt, but then mine is SRAM Eagle…  sure you can just shorten the cable & outer?

Yes of course, I’d have just thought there might be a reason it’s like that if an experienced mechanic had assembled it. Looks like all the cables are long and the brake grommits fitted right either. Lovely bike but not impressed with its setup, nothing I can’t sort, but given the cost I’d expect not to have to shorten cables and generally faff about with setup