- Running out of B-Screw
Buy a Deore mech.
Seriously, I also run a 10 speed Sunrace 11-42 cassette and when the bike shop put the build together the mechanic wasn’t optimistic about the gears working, he said he’s rarely come across extender rings or the new wide range 10-speed cassettes that shift properly.
When I collected the bike a few days later he was surprised and pleased that the gears were the easiest he’s ever set up and worked faultlessly….he said he’d be recommending Deore 10 speed mechs over SLX, XT, XTR etc if customers want a wide range 10-speed setup!Posted 7 months ago
@deviant, its only going to be for a few months so I don’t want to buy anything, I’ll be going back to singlespeed on it for the winter. Was just interested to see any hacks/bodges that might have been options to eek out another mm. Shifting is pretty good to be honest, I don’t think I’ll be able to thread it in the other way, so will just call it good for now!
Cheers all.Posted 7 months ago
Just thrown an old 10 speed setup on my old singlespeed temporarily, when I put a 10 speed 11-42 sunrace on my 29er with an XT mech, a longer B-Screw was all I needed to pull the top jockey wheel off of the cassette. With the old XTR mech from the parts bin I have actually run out of adjustment due to it riding over the little flat the screw acts on. It is just enough to stop the jockey wheel running on the 42 sprocket of the cassette, anything I can do to get an extra few mm?
Posted 7 months agospacehopperSubscriber
do you have a link to the £3 goatlink nick1962 please?
Guessing they have a different name and my searching skills are lacking.. as all I can find is the Lindarets ones at over £20..
EDIT: and now I’ve posted this I’ve just found them.. 🙄 Looks like its the roadlink though rather than the goat..Posted 7 months ago
As said several times previously, its nothing to do with the B-Screw being too short, as it rotates the mech it runs out of pad to act on. I have for now turned the bolt around and its perfect. I have attached a larger pic for the people asking if its fitted correctly, I believe it is, the curved stop on the back of the mech is tight against the hanger.
No goat link required in this instance. Cheers again for all the replies!
Posted 7 months agoalricMember
I just go a similar problem with my slx mech.
I had 2 rides on this bike before,it was not a problem once I put the B screw in all the way.
I just built it with the mech off the old bike
But this ride,I heard a noise in 40tooth gear, and the jockey wheel was too close, so I changed up to 36, it was ok.
Ten minutes later, same problem in the 36, and soon in 3rd gear too
The b screw is still in all the way and hits the stop
The other thing I noticed was that the mech didn’t spring back into a higher gear, the cable became loose
Could it be a clutch issue?Posted 7 months ago
I have no idea how the clutch is adjusted
nicolaisam – Member
Dosent look like the mech is fitted correctly.
That small link is in the wrong place
Which orientation should it be in? It can’t go any further clockwise (to bring it flatter) as there is a cast tab on the back of the link that is touching the mech hanger. (No photo available, at work now).Posted 7 months ago
OK, I pulled it around so the casting on the back sat on what would have been the old b-screw tab, the chain only wraps around about 25% of the sprocket (and that’s with the B-screw so far in it won’t even shift onto the top 3 gears).
I have put it back as it was for now, its working nicely with the b-screw reversed! It will do for a couple of months.
Posted 7 months ago
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