From the shock body:
Rebound is on the smallest bar (1 of 3)
Compression is in the middle bar (2 of 3)
Ignore that. It’s just the spec/tune of the shock as fitted to your bike.
1) Set the sag as in your bike’s user manual. This is easiest done by letting all the air out of the shock, bottoming out the suspension and noting where the O-ring sits at full travel. Leave it there, then inflate the shock again so it opens out. Measure the distance between the seal on the bottom of the shock body and the O-ring. This is your shock stroke. Set static sag as indicated in the manual, but otherwise 20% of the stroke is a good starting point
2) Set the rebound. (Red dial) A heavier rider needs LESS rebound damping than a lighter one, as their weight slows the rebound speed instead. Count how many clicks or turns the rebound dial has from fully slow ( +, more damping) to fully fast ( -, less damping) and for 95kg I’d say 3/4 of the way open (Towards fast, less damping) would be a good starting point. Then, if the suspension feels harsh, add more damping, if it feels wallowy, take some off.
But you won’t know this until you go out for a proper ride. Bouncing up and down and riding round the block is useless.
3) Propedal – There are 3 different settings on an RP23. Selected by pulling out the little numbered blue dial and aligning the number (1,2,3,) with the lever. Start on 2 I’d say. The lever then toggles the shock between the selected propedal setting and fully open.
On some bikes this has more effect than others, but I’d say setting 1 is for riders who like the PP turned on all the time, 2 is good for genearal on/off riding and 3 I only ever used when I knew I’d need to do some standing on the pedals to climb. Just my opinion though!
One final thing – There is ABSOLUTELY NO POINT copying someone else’s settings. Every bike is different and every rider is different. Nobody else can do it properly for you.
THE only way to do it is to understand how your shock works and what the adjusters do, then notice the effect each adjustment makes.
Make ONE adjustment at a time, in small increments, test it properly, and then try again. If you adjust 2 things at once, how do you know which one was right and which one was wrong? It usually takes me 5-6 rides to get a new bike/fork working just right for me. Slowly-slowy-catchee-monkey!
Hope this helps.
:o)