Bike is less than 2 weeks old.

Can feel play in the front end when I feather the brake. Feels like top bolt so checked that but still there. Calliper bolts tight. Disc bolts tight.

Rear wheel side to side play and a noticeable click sound.

I aprreciate factory wheels cam be a bit iffy. Back to lbs to checkout when I have time I guess?

Had 2 pairs – neither with that issue. Factory-built wheels should be just as robust as hand-built.

Yep, back to them to sort it out, for the rear atleast.

There may well be a fore/aft play with the disc pads rocking in the calipers.

dont know about the fronts but for the rears check the axle bolts, mine were a bit loose, juts enough for the wheel to move on the axle

That makes sense.

Stumpy owners group on Facebook reckon it’s a common problem of the cones not being fully tightened, possibly as the grease settles after a little riding. Had a quick look and they aren’t 15mm, maybe 17mm so I’ll need new spanners. Also seem to have misplaced my cassette removal kit. Did one of you guys burrow it and not bring it back? Buggers.

Shop us a fair distance away but it has to go bavk for a bronze service in a few weeks so I’ll get them to look at it. Spesh dealer so I imagine its not their first rodeo.

Rear may just need tightening slightly. 8 or 10mm hex in one side and spanner on the other (drive side I think). My traverse rear had a habit of loosening itself resulting in side to side play as described. I’d give that a try before returning.

Have tightened the Axle up another qtr turn for now. It’s lessened but not completely gone. Will try your method later and get the shop to check it out when it goes in for its free service / check up

My 2015 ones were pretty poor for self loosening. Sealing on them was very “US desert state” and bearings went quickly despite low mileage and needed the DT ring tool to replace.

You may find the “cone” and lock nut are both19mm (pretty sure mine are).

None of ours, and we have a few pair, have cones or lock nuts, they do have straight pull spokes which are a pain to find when you need some. They look for all intent on purpose like DT Swiss. They must have changed who they are using to supply them.

Get them back to a the shop. Maybe a local Specialized dealer may help.

@tracey

I think there is and has been more than one Roval model – the one I have and assume the OP has is found at the realtively cheaper end of the expensive bike scale.

The ends of the axle are threaded and there is a sort of square edged cone on the NDS. They also have or had J-bend spokes.

The drive side on cheaper version has a DT Swiss style ring but without the star drive system.

It’s a bit of a Heinz 57 hub!

I think / assume you have the more upmarket versions.

Thanks, I always assumed they were all based around the same hub but with different internals. I suppose most manufacturers go with what they can fit and get away with.

I have noticed over the years that the specs for the same model, ie Expert, gets lower year on year, our 2015 Stumpy Expert came with XO and alloy wheels, the 2019 Stumpy Expert we bought in December was GX and Carbon rims.

To be fair we swap that much around that none of our bikes resemble the spec they were originally bought. We tend to standardise so that if the worst comes to the worst we can swap bits out and around.

Had a quick look and they aren’t 15mm, maybe 17mm so I’ll need new spanners.

Not 100% sure of the size, but they do need an unusually large cone spanner if it’s the same axle as my older set (and the rear on my GF’s Whyte). It may be a 19mm – in any case you can check using a normal spanner on the NDS (or even just measure across the flats) as it’s the same size as the flats on the nut it locks off against.

Anyway, this shouldn’t happen, play in front could be just movement of the pads but that doesn’t sound right if you can feel the play when riding. Forks? is the axle tight?

Roval Traverse wheels. Well, they’re tra-Verse than my old Spank wheels for sure.

None of ours, and we have a few pair, have cones or lock nuts, they do have straight pull spokes which are a pain to find when you need some. They look for all intent on purpose like DT Swiss. They must have changed who they are using to supply them.

I think the lower end Roval have the threaded lock nuts, higher end are DT swiss internals.

Either way, whilst the bearings are easy to swap out, they should not be loose after a couple of weeks.

same hubs on my roval carbon ones. They are formula.

they are rubbish.

the axle preloads the cartridge bearings. If your not spot on with the tension then it will kill them quickly. I went through several sets and a freehub in months.

swapped out for a pro4 in the end.

not had an issue with the front

That looks like a generic hub that a lot of OEMs use, they have a habit of coming loose. Should be a big hex inside the disc side axle end you can use to hold whilst you adjust the disc side locknuts, drive side nut holds on the freehub, no locknut.

Yeah, it’s a low end bike but you’d expect the hubs to stay tight. I’ve tweaked it a bit and it’s not clicking, and I can’t feel much play now. Guess “new wheels” will be on the horizon.

I wouldn’t write them off just yet! The ones on my 2014 camber, now ridden by a mate, are still going despite minimal maintenance. I had another pair on my next camber that were trouble free. Keep an eye on the alloy nipples though… once one goes, the rest will follow!