Viewing 21 posts - 1 through 21 (of 21 total)
  • Road Tubeless
  • andeh
    Free Member

    I have tubeless ready rims with tape….I have regular non tubeless tyres (Conti Sport Contact 35c), will they go up and stay up?

    Usually I’d just have a go, but reclaiming sealant from a failed attempt is a messy, tedious business.

    My reasons? Why not, it is Tuesday after all….isn’t it?

    honourablegeorge
    Full Member

    Road tubeless means 2/3/4 times the pressure used for MTB tubeless

    Wear earplugs and glasses.

    kerley
    Free Member

    Nobody will be able to tell you as they won’t have the exact same rim and tyre. Try it without sealant to see if they at least pop onto the rim properly and stay up for a short while. If they do then they will be good, if they don’t then probably not.

    trailwagger
    Free Member

    Depends if you trust the tyre to stay hooked on the rim whilst cornering at 30mph on tarmac.

    andeh
    Free Member

    Yeah, thought as much. Might have a muck about this eve.

    I only tend to run about 60psi max as they’re quite big tyres. I never understood the fear of explosions though, I can’t see why removing the tube would cause them to pop. The internal forces would be the same, shirely?

    The burping thing worries me a bit, although there’s not too many opportunities to hit 30+ mph round here without a stiff tailwind. Again though, forces must be very similar to with the tube in, and burping only really occurs on the MTB at low pressures anyway.

    thisisnotaspoon
    Full Member

    I wouldn’t have thought burping was an issue, but blowing up definitely is. Road tubeless uses carbon fiber beads to eliminate the stretching in steel/Kevlar beaded tyres.

    I’ve got non-tubeless 35c tyres on my cross bike and they’ve been fine (with sealent on tubeless rims). But I’ve never taken them above 40psi, why would you go for 35mm tyres and run them at 60psi, surely that completely defeats the point of wide tyres?

    andeh
    Free Member

    The tyre has gone up and popped onto the rim, but there’s a worrying hiss if I push near the bead in a particular place. Maybe should just suck it up and buy the TLE G-One Speeds I’ve been pondering.

    They’re max 60psi, usually about 50, much less and they feel draggy.

    mboy
    Free Member

    Road tubeless means 2/3/4 times the pressure used for MTB tubeless

    Wear earplugs and glasses.

    This… Quite a lot of this…

    You MUST video it too, and if they stay up, you must video any subsequent rides you attempt with a GoPro strapped to your chest please… It’s been far too long since the infamous Badger thread, we’re all due a good laugh at someone else’s tubeless woes! 😉

    simondbarnes
    Full Member

    I can’t see why removing the tube would cause them to pop. The internal forces would be the same, shirely?

    Nope.

    bigyim
    Free Member

    I gave up with road tubeless. I have set up loads of mtb tubeless with no problems but road ones are a different beast.
    I sent back the first set of tyres cause I couldn’t get them on the wheel and the second set I managed to get on and then as mentioned above. Blew the tyre off the rim, ended up covered in sealant, bike covered in sealant, shed covered in sealant, all my other bikes cov….you get the idea. And it’s hard to wash it out your hair! It’s not water soluble so you end up with the blown rim hairstyle for a few days.

    andeh
    Free Member

    Nope

    OK….but why? I accept it’s a bad idea, but need to know more about that.

    infidel
    Free Member

    I wrote this a year ago if its of any use to you?

    simondbarnes
    Full Member

    OK….but why?

    The tube helps the tyre bead stay on the rim

    gooner69
    Full Member

    what are the collective thoughts on using proper tubeless tyres (pro 1`s) on non tubeless rims. Converted using stans tape and valves?

    andeh
    Free Member

    I’m not convinced that tubes do anything to keep the bead on the rim, over tubeless. The internal forces will be almost exactly the same. If anything the forces will be more evenly distributed without a tube.

    I’ve been racking my brain trying to think about it objectively, and I can’t see it making any difference at all.

    Someone who is wise in the ways of science please clarify….ideally with pictures.

    kerley
    Free Member

    I am guessing the tyre bead on a tubeless ready tyre may be different than a non tubeless tyre which may make a difference?
    I did however use 25c Continental sport contact non tubeless tyres for around 6 months and ran them tubeless with no issues at all

    reggiegasket
    Free Member

    the friction from the tube holds the tyre bead in place. No tube, no friction.

    I’ve tried non-tubeless tyres tubeless (28mm GP4Seasons) and they seemed okay but I couldn’t get them to hold air properly, even with sealant, so gave up and moved onto proper tubeless tyres soon after.

    Tubeless tyres on non-tubeless rims (e.g. Open Pros) are fine IME but often take a bit of work/compressor to seat the tyre properly.

    t3ap0t
    Free Member
    gooner69
    Full Member

    Thanks Reggie, im gonna tubeless everything in sight now. The ride is so much better on the road cant see an reason not too as my tyres wear out.

    cookeaa
    Full Member

    what are the collective thoughts on using proper tubeless tyres (pro 1`s) on non tubeless rims. Converted using stans tape and valves?

    It can work but there are no guarantees, and as with running tubeless on an MTB you need to consider the rim profile, if it’s too narrow for the tyre rather than the internal pressure pushing the bead into sidewall it will help it roll over and blow off.

    So what is the internal width of your rims and how wide are the tyres? I reckon you want about an 18mm internal rim (ideally wider) to seat a 35mm tyre tubelessly.

    reggiegasket
    Free Member

    +1 proper old-school skinny rims (<17mm) are awkward to setup tubeless. The bead can’t seat properly both sides of the valve.

    Some rims aren’t ‘officially’ tubeless eg. H Plus Sons Archetype but go up and stay up fine. Open Pros aren’t that easy but will work. Proper skinny Mavics eg. 17mm ksyriums are just not worth it.

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