Reverb stealth 150mm A2 slow.
There is no ‘squish’ and the post feels firm.
I have stripped down to brass pins and cleaned up from there and did a bleed where loads of air came out.
It’s still running slow and I did the bleed on full slow to get the max oil volume in there.
What will fix it?
Is a full strip and rebuild very difficult with setting the oil level etc?

Any help appreciated.

Ells

What will fix it?

Air pressure OK? Turn to full fast?

Try bleeding the remote again but use the syringes to gently force fluid into it before disconnecting & fitting the plugs asap. (Don’t go mad, or it will all just squirt out again.)

If there’s no squish, and no slow drop while riding, leave the innards alone (IMHO).

Sounds like air pressure to me. Done a few of these and you’ve done everything needed especially if its not squigy.

Sounds like the main points have been covered already. If you’re using the correct fluid inside the post then the air pressure needs checking. If you’ve already done this have you got another shock pump you can use to check the pressure? Is the barrel adjuster wound back to the faster end of its travel? Don’t be tempted to depressurise the post via the schrader valve. This regularly results in the oil inside the post foaming up & you will then have squish which won’t be fixed by repressurising.

Rebuilding is fairly straightforward. The Rockshox videos are easy to follow.

I have a different problem – I have a nearly new (external routed) one that works fine, except I can manually lift the saddle up when in the down position – what’s the cause of that? Air pressure or a bleed required?

curse of the reverb hit mit last night. Got to trail head, depressed lever/button and the saddle stayed firmly down… argghhh short ride before my knees blew..

Back in the garage it’s fine, so clearly temperature issue with poor bleed or maybe other..???

I can manually lift the saddle up when in the down position

Yes, you can. Don’t do it.

depressed lever/button and the saddle stayed firmly down… […] Back in the garage it’s fine, so clearly temperature issue with poor bleed

Did you try and wind the speed adjuster to ‘fast’ ? It’s there for temperature compensation as much as anything else. If it still doesn’t work, then bleed it again (adjuster on slow, try to get the max amount of fluid in there when disconnecting). If it works for a few days then stops again, you’ve probably got a leak on the remote pipework somewhere (doesn’t need much to stop it working; just a drop or two).

I’ll try a different shock pump.
After the bleed, I adjusted speed of post to fast…Still slow.
I’ll try a different pump.

Would the pu bushes cause stiction on the post? I changed the crappy original rock shox one as it delaminated.

Would the pu bushes cause stiction on the post?

Could do if they were tight.

How old is it – the new ones are OK the old ones were shite and I would just save the cash and go and buy a Oneup or PNW post.

Would the pu bushes cause stiction on the post? I changed the crappy original rock shox one as it delaminated.

If the bushes wear play in the post is the usual outcome. The Rockshox bushes do fall apart, especially the lower one which generally wears out first. Is the post only stiff in one direction IE on the way up or is it also stiff to push down? What did you replace the bushes with can I ask?

I’m running through the things that spring to mind.
Pressure too low.
Friction inside the post caused perhaps by the bushes. (Never experienced this)
Too little fluid in the actuation circuit.
Poppet valve ports blocked or poppet not opening fully.
Problem with the handlebar button/lever not supplying enough fluid to depress the poppet.

I’d persevere with this, it’s probably something simple. I’ve acquired several of these post; all abandoned by their previous owners as written off. Main issues, Lower bush worn, Old model IFP passing, Bottom circlip rotted away & needing bled.

I’ve had a tight lower DU bushing (ND Tuning) cause it to run slow.

There was a thread on here regarding the pu bushes. Got a tube for top and bottom bushes.

The standard Rockshox bushes have a sacrificial coating on them, presumably to avoid damage to sliding parts. The coating is prone to becoming partially detached from the base metal especially the lower bush. The thread you remember referenced the material from Bearing Boys who supply sleeve bearings in the correct dimensions. This can then be carefully cut up and used in place of the original bushes.

Reverb’s don’t like the cold, they’re definitely slower when the temperature drops