Right
First things first.
I want to cut dead trees that are free to me. I dont care about tiny particulates or where my smoke drifts too, Ok.
I do care about not being able to afford heating when its 4c outside and raining amd im home all day.

So i need a petrol chainsaw that starts with a £1xx. Not tiny, not used Husq or Sthil.

I know i need full on ppp so visor, boots, gloves, troos. Some of them i can buy from work as we sell Oregan products

Google suggests Hyundai or Park power at this price bracket, which i always take with a pinch of salt as Google is funded by adverts.
Have used electric saws in the past but for the location these are not practical.

Yes, i know what i cut now camt be burnt this year

Parker chainsaws get the easy start version with a smaller than the 20″ bar if you can.

I had my Stihl 251cbe stolen and replaced it with a 62cc one of these 5 years ago, it gets used to cut up loads and loads of trees every year as I have a wood burner, for around a, £100 you can’t go wrong.

Usual safety caveats apply 😉

Screwfix do a couple of Titan ones, but they are smaller CC and less warranty. I think I would be tempted by the 3 year Hyundai warranty at that price point.

Have you checked what spare parts/carb kits you can buy?

You can get a homeowner husky/stihl 12/14″ in budget, but I assume you need the 20″ bar?

I have one of these for the farm. Small, cheap and does exactly what it says on the tin. Mine is 4 years old now, standard Oregon bar and chain. Which ive replaced quite a few times.

Screwfix – Titan chainsaw

Id have another in a minute, as its not been a minutes bother.

i cut wood, old wood for firewood, fencepost tops etc with it and general work. If it breaks its cheap enough to throw it away and buy another. Obvs got to be careful with what size you decide to saw mind….

I have a Makita electric plug in for all my chopping at home which has been a Trojan and doesn’t sit idling while you load the horse….

And have a lidl special for any away from home/away from electric work

It starts reliably and it cuts well- came with an Oregon bar and chain.

Husky from F&R Jones

https://www.frjonesandson.co.uk/products/husqvarna-120-chainsaw-38-2cc-version-2-14-bar-chain

That Hyundai is poor.

If you are near Matlock I’ve got a petrol one you can have (free). Came out of by father-in-laws garage, not had much use. And I’ll never use it. Currently stripped down and sat in it’s box.

It’s a SGS Powercut.
https://www.sgs-engineering.com/help-advice/change-chain-sgs-chainsaw/

…I can’t be arsed to post though so don’t ask! 🙂

I have had a Husky 120 for a lot of years and would recommend it. It is amazing what you can get through with a 14″ bar and it will cover 98% of your cutting needs. I team up with a neighbour who has multiple Husky’s going up to a 22″ bar. We cut a full sized ash tree up a few weeks ago after it had been felled and that is the only time that size of bar comes in to its own and it can still be a 2-4 way cut on the tree trunk. It is tiring using a long bar.

That said if I am cutting logs in the garden I mostly use an electric Bosch saw, no conking out whilst loading up the branches.

Is this a regular requirement or a one off? I’d just hire if the latter

I’ve an ancient electric Bosch that has 18″ bar on it. It’s never had any issues, starts on the button, and with a sharp chain cuts full depth without issues.

All in have ever done is fill the oil, clean each time I use it and sharpen the chain regularly. Since 1997.

I will working 1/4 from power so corded Really won’t cut it.

What about this, its local ish, in stock and on the money.

https://www.forestandarb.com/Chainsaws.html.

Husqvarna 130 petrol 14in £169.

South coast based so driving to matlock probably cost about the same as a new one, but thanks for the offer

How big are the diameters you are cutting? A chainsaw seems overkill for less than 12″ . I cut a load of windfallen oak , ash and beech up to about 14″ diameter with a bahco extra sturdy handsaw, takes next to no time, and very quiet too, stops nosy **** coming up and asking if you have permission to do that, etc. I’d love one of those Silky Katana things as tney look perfect for the job, but they cost more than a chainsaw.

You know the old saying about how firewood warms you 3 times? Well yeah, a lot of that, so maybe give it a miss til October this year if you go down that route.

Very similar to you – I had some dead trees to take down and chop up, and a bow saw took sodding ages.

Bought a Stihl MS 180 – a touch out of your budget at £220 when I bought it, but the MS 170 is almost identical and starts with a £1xx. That and a cheap (£20) galvanized saw horse from B&Q made short work of the Birch trees, which are now seasoning nicely.

Oregon PPE bundle from Amazon – Troos/chaps, gloves/visor & lid all for about £50.

Best of luck, there’s something quite satisfying about felling and chopping firewood in the Autumn.

The Echo stuff is starting to get taken seriously by professional users.
Don’t get anything over 15″ bar for a sub 45cc saw.

Nothing to recommend as you’ve ruled out secondhand.

I
Thats 1/4 mile btw, be a long extension cable
I have access to 12 full sized 150ft tall pine trees
All on the ground, on private land that the owner wants gone.
So a hand saw is never going to make a dent in that lot.
My plan is to de branch and sort the 6in upwards into lengths, Pile up thw rest.
Then start on the trunks into 10in lengths also
Access to trailer and tractor and a v70

They can be seasoned on site
Some were dead wood standing so i expect are fairly dry already.

Think im goung to go with that husky 130.

Not second hand as i have no idea what to look out for or howmany hours run time is on the machine.

If the stuff splits easy enough, you could cut in longer lengths and make billets, this is what I do with ash I’ve been bringing home from die back jobs. It stacks well ventilated and is easier to handle until I want to cut it to size for the shed. Just sheet/cover the top.

If you had the time and are confident with a saw, that is probably achievable within a week. If it’s Monterey Pine the bark is really thick and dusty.

Stihl do a one pass type file, can’t remember what they call it, if you aren’t familiar with sharpening it will make the job easier.

Ask a dealer about second hand. The one we use takes our old saws in part exchange against new, reconditions the good ones and breaks the uneconomical ones. They also know how different people treat them.

How about a Sheppach (they make good bandsaws)
https://www.aldi.co.uk/scheppach-petrol-45cc-chainsaw/p/814163603784300?msclkid=5816b905bf8319afceb0dbff3432903c&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Shopping%20%7C%20Specialbuys%20OSD%20%7C%20Generic&utm_term=4574724298481931&utm_content=Week%2013%20-%202022

Or, you might be able to get a discounted new Tanaka, which is a Japanese premium brand – excellent quality, just not very well known in UK/Europe.

Those Husky’s are a good deal though.

How about a Sheppach (they make good bandsaws)

Looks identical apart from the Oregon bar to the florabest I bought from Lidl at least 4 years ago. Only gone up 20 quid as well

I have an Aldi mains-powered one one and PPE helmet, gloves and visor. Topped out at £100 3 years ago.

If it’s all dead wood, they won’t put up much resistance.

Don’t forget to buy that hockey mask.(Pictured with a Husqvarna)

Just watching this vid,, as im in the market too for a small saw(General use)

These seem to be the main under £200 home use saws. Think i might get the Echo.

Can highly recommend the Stihl easi file to keep the chain sharp.. it makes it super quick and easy to keep the chain proper sharp

Stihl 2 in 1/easy file is good. Originally made by pferd, Stihl and husky make them paying a licence to pferd. China also makes them…. Without paying…. Cheap copies seem to work quite well.

Normally I’d say stick to husky, Stihl, dolmar/Makita, echo. However f r Jones is my local dealer, so I know they are big suppliers and decent. I doubt they would sell rubbish. They have a few cheaper brands and their cheapest petrol saw is a 62cc Hyundai. My guess… Heavy and down on power compared to a Stihl or husky but probably built to last a short while at least. Maybe give them a call and see if they can help choose one?

Neil
Makita EA 4300
Husqvarna 365 x-torq

Aftet watching that YT vid and reading up a wee bit more I am now the owner of a brand new Echo CS 310 – es. 14in bar model.
Ebay seller accepted offer at &£176!
And thats delivered price , although I might collect it as its an hour away.

Found the Oregon saftey kit A online at £76 so thats on its way.

Just a file and lube required plus a 2 stroke mixing pot.

Hopefully the Echo will last and be reliable and eady to use.

Thanks everyone for your responses, succinct and to the point a usual.

Well mind and do a review.

Worth getting a spare chain too. Although it’s pretty easy to tickle up a chain for a short bar when it’s dulled, if you hit rock or metal (you’ll be surprised what ends up in a tree!) Sometimes a chain gets mullered. Swapping out and sharpening the damaged chain at leisure is a good option.

You’ve got a fair bit of work to do and will get through a good amount of fuel and chain oil. I’d suggest a litre of 2 stroke is more cost effective than several 100ml one shot bottles. Don’t skimp, the better husqvarna oil is fully synthetic and high quality for little more than the basic husky or Stihl mineral based oils. Chain oil similar, consider a 5l bottle which would be about £22 these days, probably more cost effective than several 1 litre bottles.

I sense you’ll be at these trees hard so you’ll not have stale fuel issues but if you aren’t cutting regularly don’t leave fuel in the saw and I suggest Esso synergy supreme as it’s still guaranteed ethanol free. 2 strokes don’t like ethanol, or rather rubber, carburetors small engines don’t like ethanol.

Boots, does the safely kit include boots? Steel toe at least, but chainsaw boots also have the protective Kevlar on the shin and foot top. Cheap Welly type aren’t that comfy but are fine for standing in a field bucking up logs.

Stay safe and hope you enjoy it!

Got thick DeWalt steel toe cap work boots already. Not ideal but i intend to go at the lumber in a steady, methodical manner.
Some have fallen over each other and need winching out with a turfour plus there’s clearing the brushwood and either burning it or piling it away.
Plus i already have carpel tunnel syndrome, so hours of 2 stroke buzz wont help that in the slightest.
Good shout on bulk buying oils, Its not going to go off and i have space to keep it in the garage

Supposedly 2 stroke, like any engine oil, has a shelf life. 5 years I think they say. I’ve read it’s sure to additives separating. I think that is a bit of an over cautionary shelf life myself.

You should have mentioned the CS. I don’t know what the echo is like but I’d have steered you to husqvarna over Stihl. Germans use rubber av mounts, Swedes use springs…. Better.

Just got to say this thread is the antithesis of a thread on another forum I use. I kid you not, itsc title is ..

Best Chain saw for under $1200.00 to buy for cutting trees once a month or so, not every week?

🤣🤣

Update
2 days of felling done. Mates got a big husky x power 20″ bar. Plus my 14″ echo so good mix.
On day 1 was learning really. Mate used my echo whilst i tidied and stacked.
He was really impressed with the power from a small saw, so he bought another husky the 120.
So like for like comparison. The echo is easier to start and runs cleanly from the off. Its slightly less plasticy with maybe 200gm less weight.
Some nicer touches are metal toggle cut switch and tool free access for service.
He has a big husky dry break oil and fuel dual can which really is clever and easy to use and makes a tricky job an absolute breeze.
Felling trees is relatively easy, dealing with leaners tangled up at height required bar and rope work, is dangerous and needs careful assessment before cuts or leverage is used.
There are lots of spruce to deal with, some root ball to negotiate but we have access to a 3t mini digger.

So the echo is a great success. Starts easy, idles nicely , lots of power, low weight is definitely less fatiguing tjan a long saw.
The big husky was 4x the price and is definitely higher quality machine with nice attention to detail.

Just need to spend a few days clearing and then splitting the useful sized wood and burning the brash. Then learning to hone the chain and felling some of the bigger dead standing spruce trees.
We need to get faster dealing with the lumber we want to keep once the trunk is accessable, either cutting to long lengths and stacking, or cutting to burning length, splitting and moving once away from the working area.

What are you doing with all this timber then ?. Is it to be planked ?.

Sounds like you’ve made a good start, and that the job is rather large!

I was thinking about this. Generally being efficient with firewood is about reducing the time is handled and one thing that makes a difference is leaving logs in longer lengths/unsplit until close to it’s final stacking location. So cut short enough to handle easily to any temporary storage away from the work area but no smaller. The one thing against that is maximising chainsaw use in the field where noise and saw chips aren’t such an issue if you can drive up to where you’ll split and stack at home.

I’d also keep logs left on site as large as possible if there is any danger of someone thinking they can help themselves.

Re the wood.
Aim is to build up a wood store at his place we can both dip into for our stoves.
There is enough that we can separate the older windfall logs from the newer, sappy wood.
Apparently the wood was once a Xmas tree farm so they were planted close together, and for whatever reason left to grow very tall and spindly.