Anyone been there in the last few years? (It’s been ~30 years since I skied it as a kid). I’d love to take my wife there this year, and I’m 100% confident that the skiing is easily within her ability. I’m a bit concerned about the walk down the ridge to get to the plateau. She’ not that great on a ridge with skis (or her bike!) so I’m just wondering what the lay of the land was these days? I can imagine there might have been some health and safety upgrades in the last 3 decades as it’s such a well trodden path.

Not that long since I’ve been, 5 years maybe?

Still not the best place to be for someone who’s not that keen on very high and exposed places with not that much in the way of a “safety net”

The weather was rediculous last time we were there, bitter cold and very strong winds on the ridge. I’m pretty used to that sort of environment, but even so, it wasn’t pleasant.

In good weather though, it just a stroll down some narrow, exposed and very slippery stairs with enormous drops on both sides 😂👍

Just looked at some videos on youtube, there’s a hand rail! a hand rail!

Still look like certain death on both sides, especially for someone who’s uncomfortable in such situations. I think I’ll stick to more accessible snow with her. As much as I’d love her to ski it, it looks like it’ll be ripe for her to freeze up.

I’m glad there wasn’t youtube 30 years ago, my mum would never have let my dad take us up there! And there’s certainly wasn’t the hand rail, or the 2nd route around the stairs. 🙂

It’s a long, long time since I was there (in summer, axe and crampons). A bit exposed and narrow but my understanding is that in winter it’s a bit broader and they put up a handrail.
Compare these:

January. Hasn’t really changed since my last visit about 1988. That’s not a handrail just a bit of rope.
https://i.postimg.cc/BntwRTkt/20180129-112444.jpg

Stay inside the ropes and get a grip, both physically and mentally and you will be fine. The queues can be bad though.

I have seen someone fall off the VB side, and they survived. I seriously wouldn’t recommend it. It was a long, serious fall, caused by unnecessary peer pressure.

I did it about 4 years ago from the Italian side; that avoids the climb down with the ropes so possibly more suitable for less confident skiers. Main memory from that is how much longer the climb is now from the glacier to the funicular station if you’re going down that way. I think the Italian side has a new lift now which removes another potentially scary element if you’re not that confident in ancient cable cars.

You’ll be in for a shock if you haven’t been for 30 years:

https://www.bloomberg.com/news/features/2015-09-25/climate-change-on-mont-blanc-the-vanishing-mer-de-glace

Remember that despite there being a lift it’s off piste. If you’re not experienced in skiing on glaciers, including the ability to rescue each other if you fall down a crevasse, I’d hire a guide. They’ll also know which route down is in best condition and be able to pick the most enjoyable route for your ability.

I’d suggest a guide too or at least rope and harness “just in case”. If the weather is bad wait till another day.

I did an off-piste weekend with UCPA. DVA, etc included. Didn’t actually do VB in the end because of weather but it was great regardless. The poor weather meant only me and one other guy turned up so we got a massive amount of attention from the UCPA guide. So it improved my skiing a lot and I saw some new parts of the mountains, even if the views weren’t great. Having all the gear gave extra peace of mind too.

I skied a week in Chamonix in my early 20’s, with a group of University friends some of which had substantially more disposable income than me and decided to do the VB. I still regret not finding the cash, as they had a great experience based on their story.

The weather wasn’t great the day they’d booked it so although they turned up on time to the bottom station, their guide said they couldn’t go until it cleared, so come back in an hour. They did this a couple of times, with the guide just sat drinking espresso in the meantime and every time they went back he was progressively wired. So by the time they actually went he was already giggling to himself.

At the top they said the walk was terrifying becaus eit was still very cold and quite windy (subjective when you’re stood on the ridge like that I suppose) – one guy said his hands got so cold he could no longer feel the rope but assumed he was still holding on because he didn’t dare let go to find out.

The ski-ing was pretty easy but views great. But the jeopardy of being on a glacier with crevass dangers was frequently mentioned by the guide: “if you fall on this section do not try to stand, I will come back to help you” and on one section memorably “if you fall on this section I will come back later and put a cross up for you”

Coming to the videos above and the climbers roped together – what’s the MO there? If someone slips and falls one way do you jump the other to balance it or what!

In the tunnel now they have a list of all the mandatory equipment. Includes harness, rope I think, avalanche bleeper thing, a heap of kit. I think it said you can’t go down without an authorised guide too. I can’t imagine insurance would cover you without one.

I just went up for the view ( I was there Fatbiking in January not skiing) but my dad did it a couple of years ago and said it was challenging but not overly tough (intermediate skier in late 60s)

I think it said you can’t go down without an authorised guide too. I can’t imagine insurance would cover you without one.

I don’t see why you coudn’t get insurance, I’ve had insurance for climbing in the Alps (without a guide) on stuff way more dangerous than that stroll in the park!

Coming to the videos above and the climbers roped together – what’s the MO there? If someone slips and falls one way do you jump the other to balance it or what!

If all else fails… yeah pretty much (but you try very hard not to have to do it!) The guides are pretty good at short-roping clients on a close leash so a minor slip doesn’t get out of control.
Alpine climbing tends to involve a lot of exposed, easy but unprotectable ground where you stay roped up because it’d be too much faff untying and retying all the time. You’re basically just transporting the rope along to the next technical or crevassed section where it might actually protect you.

I did it when I was last in Chamonix, I think in Feb 2014. We did it with a guide but I can’t remember if we had mandatory transceivers – The guide sorted it all, anyway. The top section is genuinely quite terrifying. Yes, there are ropes on either side but icy/snowy steps are always risky, and the exposure is significant. I was on a snowboard and I’m reasonably confident on my feet, but we did it in a mixed group and some people in ski boots were VERY cautious. I don’t think I would take my wife up there (she is a good skier but not good with heights). YWMV.

Once you get off the ridge (a 10 minute slow walk), it’s fine. There are a few different routes you can take and presumably some are quite tech, but I think we went the standard / easy-ish way. I’m confident riding anything really but there are quite a few flatish parts that I struggled for speed on – not really a problem on skis of course. A few others in the group were slow on the steeper sections but I don’t recall any of it being especially challenging.

I wouldn’t go without a guide, though. You could find yourself in a lot of trouble on a glacier, especially if the weather is anything less than perfect.

Even as someone who is used to Alpine views, the scenery is spectacular and it was well worth doing. I don’t think doing a different route would have really enhanced the experience.

I did an off-piste weekend with UCPA.

Yeah, I did a week guided with UCPA. It was great!

+1 for getting a guide or going with an experienced group.

Everyone should be equipped with harness, cows-tail/lanyard and 2 screwgate crabs, transceiver, shovel & probe and at least 1 person (if guide or 2 people if no guide) should have 30m rope and crevasse rescue kit (and know how to use it).

If some people are nervous and/or it’s windy then the rope can be used for the arête. (boot crampons also). It starts at 3800m so the altitude can sometimes make people feel a bit ‘panicky’ anyway. But it is quicker to get down the arête without a rope

The rope-hand-rail on the arête is always there in winter – at least as long as I can remember

The ‘tourist route’ is pretty straight forward and not usually technical but depending on the recent weather & snowfall etc there can often be big crevasses opening up. Knowing how to read and navigate the crevasse terrain is imperative. There are a huge number of optional tours and variants that can make it more interesting but many people enjoy the VB just for the views rather than the technical skiing/riding.

The weather can change very quickly – with blue skies at the top and a complete whiteout for the long flat spot towards the end so you need to be able to navigate in bad vis as there are no piste markers etc.

There have been some pretty bad rock/ice falls in recent years including a massive section of the Periades that came away so some of the extra tours out of the valley may not be available.

Anyone who doesn’t think that the climate is changing and the glaciers retreating should take note of the rapidly shrinking glacier with the years marked on the climb up the stairs to Montenvers Railway

I don’t see why you coudn’t get insurance, I’ve had insurance for climbing in the Alps (without a guide) on stuff way more dangerous than that stroll in the park!

Insurance must state ‘off-piste (with or without guide)’. Standard cheap winter holiday insurance probably won’t cover you so you more than likely need extra cover. The like of Snowcard have levels of insurance – you just have to pay a premium for the extra cover … and often a big extra chunk of change if you are a snowboarder!

Before you plan any trip, check that the lift is open. It’s been closed since late summer as they had to replace the cables again….

If we go, we’ll join a guided group for certain, we certainly won’t be taking unnecessary risks.
We’re to to Chamonix anyway, I was just thinking the VB would be good if the weather looks favourable.

Closed til the end of December

https://www.montblancnaturalresort.com/fr/horaires-tarifs-aiguille-du-midi

Cheapest insurance is usually la carte neige at 85e per year

https://www.esfchamonix.com/conseils/assurance-egloo

The bottom of the valley is now a boulder field with a few miserable patches of ice showing. This is only a problem early season before the snow rounds it all off and late season when there’s no snow left.

https://www.tripadvisor.fr/Attraction_Review-g187261-d195589-Reviews-Vallee_Blanche-Chamonix_Haute_Savoie_Auvergne_Rhone_Alpes.html

Trip advisor is pretty shit but the photographs are recent.

Folks who were there before the lift broke reported the snow ridge almost completely gone this summer- also a big rockfall on the cosmiques arête. It will be interesting to see what it’s like when the lift reopens.

Folks who were there before the lift broke reported the snow ridge almost completely gone this summer

The arête at the top? That’s incredible if that’s the case. If you do the standard route the skiing is actually very easy and to some degree frustrating as there are long sections of schussing followed by bottle necks.

Still if you take it as an easy way to get experience of the big mountains and not the best ski run you will ever do then it’s great.

I’ve seen people being literally lowered down the whole mountain on ropes with a guide behind them. Bit like Everest in reverse (people who shouldn’t have been there)

Best way down to avoid the que of the arête is to go under the cable car across the valley, but obviously make sure you know what your doing at that point !

Best way down to avoid the queue…

Or abseil into the Cunningham couloir!

Closed til the end of December

Opening this weekend apparently …

https://urlz.fr/8ujq?fbclid=IwAR2XbL3yUH3TeKRU03wpDwx0sQ-iWOKC7INYARLXNh_Chv3Sjb0EnONqehg

Regarding the ropes on the arête they put them up at the start of the winter season, although it takes a few days of work.
On this page Bulletin Neige it will show “Equipé” next to “arête sommitale” if the ropes are up.

Interesting picture on that link; the path used to go straight down the ridge but there appears to be a rock section exposed now and a zigzag down the Chamonix side to avoid it.

That zig-zag has been there every year I’ve been there. Gives another option if someone’s having a mare, or a tiny bit of shelter if it’s howling.

And it’s tricky to see from the photo above, but the rock’s the other side of the path

Ah, OK, it’s 30 years since I last went there. It’s lost a lot of snow since then.

Done it a few times, mostly with guides, one time unguided(!).

Only comment I’d add to the above is that I’ve mostly done it in (snowboard) boots and the path always felt pretty sketchy as it’s pretty firm/icy. Much worse in smooth plastic ski boots. The last couple of times I put my boot crampons on and it become a casual stroll.