Quick tubeless wheel question

After 3 pinch flats today and the general need for a new rear wheel, I’m thinking of going tubeless…..

What do I need to achieve this?
I’m looking at getting a hope pro 2 evo ZTR arch wheel with a maxxis highroller UST tyre. Do I need owt else?

Cheers

Just wheel tape, valve and some sealant… Tubeless is the way to go 😉

Cheers.
Just to check I’ve got this right, I apply the yellow tape to the rim, put the valve in, stick the tyre on, add the sealant, and inflate?

Yup!
Also works with non UST tyres. A compressor is a big help too.

There’s a video on the no tubes site with yellow tape fitting tips. Fitted my Flow tubeless setup at the weekend exactly that way. Tape, valve, tyres, sealant, inflate to seat the bead, shake the sealant around, top up or reduce pressure and ride.

Help!
I think I’m doing something wrong.

I’ve got my rim, put the yellow tape on, stuck the valve in, put a tyre on, soaped the gap between the rim and the tyre, and sweet bugger all happens when I try and use a track pump. I get lots of foamy bubbles, but it never gets enough pressure to pop the tyre into the bead, so it’s not forming anything like a seal.

I’m guessing that’s why people recommend a compresser to blast the tyre into place? Is there anything I can do with my track pump to get this to work?

Assuming you are using a normal tyre, you will find inflation considerably easier if you fit a rimstrip.

GB

try taking the core of the valve out then pumping like buggery?

Have you put sealant in the tyre?

I thought UST tyres weren’t recommended with Stan’s rims?

Notwithstanding that – is the washing up liquid virtually neat? I find holding the wheel at the valve helps so you can gently hold the tyre down where the valve sits.

Personally I wouldn’t recommend putting any sealant in until and unless you’ve got the thing to seat properly.

You can halve your task buy fitting the tyre with a tube first. This seats the beads. Then deflate, carefully pop off one bead only, remove the tube and attempt to reinflate. This means you only have one bead to seat and only one to leak, giving you a fighting chance to get the air in with a track pump.

If the bead is kinked at all, leaving the tube in overnight can help the tyre to conform to the rim when you inflate.

Sitting the wheel horizontal on a bucket makes it a very easy process, even with a track pump

cheers for the suggestions.

No sealant in yet, was trying to get the tyre to seat into the rim.

Off for more washing up liquid, so will report back later!

When I did mine I found that I just had to pump like crazy to get kevlar beaded high rollers to sit!

UST rim + UST (or at least UST bead) tyre = zero faff.

Not sure why people bother with these stans rims and their silly rim strips / tape etc.

Never had probs with Stans (Flows) and UST tyres myself. Make sure the area around the valve is completely enclosed before pumping…

Plenty of soapy water around bead and rim, and then squeeze the tyre above the valve against the rim, with your thumb

There was a thread here a week or so ago about making a compressor out of a 2L coke bottle, two old presta valves, lots of duct tape and some 5mm tubing. Pump bottle up to 40psi, then release pressure into the tyre. Genius bodge and it works!

+1 glenh.

My advice, don’t get a UST tyre- it’s an expensive way to add a lot of weight and completely unneccesary. Some of mine are tubeless-ready, some are standard tyres, all work perfectly. Had UST, all they brought to the party was a big dose of lard.

glenh – Member

Not sure why people bother with these stans rims and their silly rim strips / tape etc.

You don’t use rim strips with Stans rims. Once taped up they’re functionally identical to my 819s (and lighter, and stronger, and wider). So that’s why people bother with them- it’s easy, it works, and it beats the crap out of the competition.

Not sure why people bother with these stans rims and their silly rim strips / tape etc.

Changing to any tubeless system is a pretty steep learning curve, UST or not.

Personally, I’ve had more problems getting tyres to seal with my gf’s Shimano UST wheelset than the Stans rims we have. Watch the video’s on the Stans site to make sure you install the yellow tape properly.

The Stans system is:
Cheaper and Lighter (especially when you add on the chunky rimstrip many tubeless rims require…this rimstrip can also make tight fitting tyres near impossible to mount as you can’t drop the bead into the rim to get extra slack)
Simpler
Uses standard spokes available everywhere (instead of a 3 month wait from Shimano, at which point you give up and fit an non-matching XTR spoke)
Uses standard hubs (so you don’t have to shell out a fortune for a Shimano freewheel thats only going to last 12 months)

Similarly, non UST tyres such as Bontys Tubeless Ready are cheaper and lighter as they use the sealant to make them non-porous, rather than heavier construction.

Using Stans Flow, rim tape, valves & sealant with Single Ply High Rollers….no problems here!

Seeing as the OP stated it was a UST HR this has gone off tack a bit! I don’t know why it wouldn’t work with a UST tyre, mine have gone up first time every time with a track pump. Try a CO2 cart or a compressor and you can never have too much soapy water.
I have had problems with used non UST tyres. New they go on no bother but once they’ve been used they are a pig. I don’t know if it’s because they stretch or whether I need to go round the beads meticulously cleaning all the old sealant etc off.
One thing is for sure – it’s worth it in the end. Just make sure you do have the right kind of tube with you just in case. And anchovies, don’t forget the anchovies. They rock.

Thanks for all the help.

Got a CO2 canister, and the tyre popped on in seconds. It was amazing (if that sort of thing excites you, or you’ve spend a fruitless evening battling away with it!)

Doing the sealing now, so fingers crossed all will be good with the world and my first tubeless outing 🙂

Not sure about anchovies though. Not a massive fish fan.