- Problem with my Whyte T129.
for £2000 they had to compromise somewhere and its probably the wheels there probably very flexi. best to let the bike shop throw then on a stand and have a look apart from that maybe go for a slightly smaller tyre like a specialized captain2.0 or 2.1 ground control as that’s the same tread pattern as a nobby nic but slightly less volume.Posted 4 years ago
I am having some issues with my Whyte, and I am not sure exactly what the cause is.
The tyre runs very, very close to the drive side chainstay, perhaps 1mm with a Nobby Nic 2.25″ tyre in on standard rims. With a little flex in the wheel it is rubbing on the frame and it is starting to bug me.
What I don’t know is… why is this happening? Is the wheel built wrong (there is a load of space on the non-drive side), is the frame out of alignment or is it just a really rubbish bit of design work?
Going to drop it into my LBS (DC Cycles in Ulverston) next week for their opinion assuming I don’t make it past Wheelbase where I got it from before then. You would think a trail frame could take a pretty standard tyre size used in trail riding!
The other option, I suppose, it to find out what the stiffest 29er rim is and get some new wheels built. Or sell the frame and get a Horse Thief.Posted 4 years agoshortcutSubscriber
Suggest you take it back to Wheelbase (clearly there is an issue with dish or frame alignment) either of which are most likely covered under warranty.
Perhaps if you call them first they may have some useful and relevant experience of the issue – if its happened to you, it has probably happened to others so they will likely know about it.Posted 4 years agoSpeshpaulSubscriber
jonny, dish- zero dish – is positioning the centre of the rim over the centre of the hub, thus hopefully in the centre of the frame.
it sounds like wheel needs some attention, you should not be able to flex a rear mtb wheel by hand, even a 29er.Posted 4 years ago
I’d be tempted to back the spokes off and re tension it, basically rebuilding it with out relacing.
I had a problem with my rear wheel, one spoke come loose and one broke, after involuntarily taking off on the second table top on the descent at lee quarry. I was going faster than I thought, I have now replaced the wheels with Flows on hope hubs, which are much stiffer. Only problem is after having my wheels fitted my Reverb is now knackered, I’ve no idea what’s happened to it, the guy in the shop said he had put some air in it than it failed on my ride, it had never missed a beat up until that point. I think something has happened to it in the workshop. I just don’t know what its going back in this morning, hopefully they can sort it soon as I’m going away to Wales for a week on a lads biking holiday on Saturday 🙁
Although clearance is still tight on the drive side even with different wheels, thanks for explaining that speshpaul…Posted 4 years agotomasoSubscriber
Sheldon Brown says it better than I can be bothered to:
A bicycle wheel should have the rim centered directly in line with the frame. The forkends are symmetrical with respect to the frame, and the hub axle locknuts (or equivalent surfaces) press against the insides of the dropouts.
Wheels should be built so that the rim is centered exactly between the axle ends on the hub. In rear wheels, the spokes attach to flanges which are not symmetrical about the denterline…the right flange is usually closer to the centerline than the left flange, to make room for the sprocket(s).
When rear wheels are built properly, the spokes on the right side are made tighter than those on the left side, pulling the rim to the right, so that it is centered with respect to the axle (and to the frame.) Viewed edgewise, a rear wheel built this way resembles a dish, or bowl, since the left spokes form a broad cone, while the right spokes are more nearly flat.
By extension, the term “dish” is used as a general synonym for accurate centering, even in the case of symmetrical wheels.
See also my Wheelbuilding articlePosted 4 years agoflangeSubscriber
Only problem is after having my wheels fitted my Reverb is now knackered, I’ve no idea what’s happened to it, the guy in the shop said he had put some air in it than it failed on my ride, it had never missed a beat up until that point. I think something has happened to it in the workshop. I just don’t know what its going back in this morning,
My money is on them clamping the bike by the seat post in the bike stand. Are there any marks on the ‘upper’ of the post? That or they’ve snagged the cable whilst in the stand. It’s a known weak point on the reverb, addressed in later models so if this is the case I think RS honor it under warrantyPosted 4 years agoSwayndoMember
Both the wheels on mine needed spokes tightening up and a bit of dishing, but that was easy for me to just do. Now I’ve got them how I’d want them I am very happy with them … they seem much stronger than Crests (which are too light IMO). Mine have had a serious rattling.
No clearance issues with a 2.35 HD in the front and a 2.25 NN in the back. Doesn’t need any more tyre.Posted 4 years ago
post has gone off for warranty, they have lent me a normal post, but im gutted as I’ve a week in wales booked next week and no dropper post 🙁 they would not accept liability, they had a Reverb on a demo five but said I couldn’t have it as It was out on Demo this weekend. I guess new customers are more important than existing ones, I hope they buy it ’cause its the last penny they will get off me.Posted 4 years ago
@capt I have a new 2.25 Rocket Ron in the rear, at 40 psi the little rubber prongs on the nobs ((I don’t know what they’re called) clear the bottom of the DS by a barely discernible amount, definitely less than a millimtere. So the nobs themselves clear by the size of those, maybe 3-4mm. It could just be that it’s tight. I’ve no noticeable whee flex though, after maybe 100 miles on non-rocky terrain.Posted 4 years agorobslyMember
I own a size large t129s and yes there’s not allot of clearance with the wheel on the drive side at the rear of the bike. The ATB rims are extremely flexy, basicly awful wheel set for trail riding.the rear wheel fell apart with nearly all spokes coming loose plus front wheel spokes where spongy whilst riding at FOD on my second ride. I’ve had the rear wheel aluminium nipples replaced with brass nipples using nipple freeze and front wheel tightened. Wheels still felt weak.
I’ve now replaced my rear wheel with an Arch ex rim laced on to a hope pro 2, built by just riding along, awesome build and rear wheel is very strong. Front will be replaced with same wheel soon. Overall price Is great for allot of bike but the drawback are the cheap flexy poor built wheels!Posted 4 years agorobslyMember
The drawback on any 29er are Prone to more flex in the wheels. the WTB’s on the whyte are some of the more flexible rims on the market. On any bike with a 2k price tag with a build like the 129s has a drawback, on this bike its the wheels. Saying that the bike is awesome fun to ride and great price to match. I’m very interested to see what whyte bring out for 2014 as I’ve heard rumours of a works 129 model with full XTR build!Posted 4 years ago
Enlarging the show bike pic seems to show little tyre clearance. Do 2.4″ tyres fit ?
I’ve not tried it but I wouldn’t think so, a 2.25 Nobby Nic is fairly tight I heard. I have a 2.25 Rocket Ron on mine, it came with a 2.2 Maxxis Icon.
However a 2.25 is big enough IMO, it does have wagon-wheels and 120mm of boing too.Posted 4 years ago
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