- Plastering a textured ceiling
Skimming is dead easy ifthe base is consistant.
Not necessarily flat just consistantly uneven. How deep is the stippling?
You can mix in fine sand with the pva to form a key.
Not a plasterer so ignore if a wettrader pipes up.
That looks perfect for just skimming over. Don’t see how pva will improve anything there unless its porous?Posted 3 months ago
TBH, if you want a proper job you should have it overboarded then skimmed.
This. I spoke to a number of plastered about my artex ceilings and they all talked about overboard then skim. Quicker, easier, cheaper. Certainly the case of scraping off the stuff was never an option. A guy at work did this and apparently it made a hell of a mess due to very fine airbourne dust that just transferred through the rest of his house despite doors being shut and he was cleaning it up for months afterwards.
I’ve recently had a leak above one room so the whole ceiling is going to get done and the job specced by the insurance company was to completely remove the old ceiling boards and replace. Sounds overkill but we’ll see.Posted 3 months ago
Has anyone looked at the photo?
If its like that then its a case of filling the holes not smoothing the bumps?
In which case…
It has a key its essentially flat and you dont need to scrape.
Just skim it.
Assuming it doesn’t fall off under the weight of the skim – some of my artex was coming off when I was painting the ceiling. Even if it is strong enough, what about the decades on ingrained muck and dust – how you going to clean that off to ensure you get a good key. See what a plasterer says.
No plasterer I spoke to was going to simply skim over it. They do this sort of thing a lot.Posted 3 months agojimobMember
All artexed or painted surfaces should be treated before skimming over. You have a choice between blue grit or watered-down pva. Or, if you’re really brave, just use Thistle Unifinish on the ceiling without any preparation. Personally, I don’t use it because I don’t trust it but it’s supposed to be good stuffPosted 3 months ago
I always recommend over-boarding with new plaster boards on artex. Just not worth the risk for £30-50 worth of boards. The only exception is if you locate the ceiling joists & re-screw & use pva grit . Be aware that some older ceilings were fixed with nails rather than screws so you go re-skim & add more weight to it….. could end in tears!Posted 3 months ago
i’ve blue/green gritted and skimmed over in the past with no issues but have seen it done where the artex has come away under the plaster. also particully heavy artex can take some covering.Posted 3 months ago
for the sake of 1/2 a day and cost of a few boards i would always overboard now. its not worth the hassle of saving a customer a few quid and then potentionally having problems they’ll want you to fix.Blazin-saddlesMember
Skim it. Any plasterer who suggest over boarding is taking the piss.
Or being a professional who doesn’t want to over load the weight limit on the boards and have the whole lot in the floor.
A lot of old boards are nailed, some not that well. I prefer overboard and screwed to the joists for a long lasting job. If people want to cut corners that’s up to them.Posted 3 months agoglobaltiMember
OK we did this when we bought our present house, which had awful swirly textured plaster from new, not Artex.
I started scraping off the high spots but that turned out to be hell on my arms and a waste of time. Our plasterer just skimmed over the lot, without using PVA and it has all stayed in place. In fact the extra layer of skim did not overload the ceilings and there has been no sign of sagging and no sign of separation even though the swirly ceilings were painted (a variety of disgusting yellows, purples and pinks!)
Our plasterer took care to tape over the cracks and joints in the existing ceiling but in the lounge where for some reason he didn’t tape, cracks have reappeared along the plasterboard joints thanks to the ceiling flexing when people walk around in the bedroom above.
We then applied dilute PVA in the hope of sealing the fresh plaster so as to reduce the numbers of coats of white emulsion but this was a waste of time and even a mistake because our rooms are big and anywhere we accidentally painted a few strokes of PVA over an area where PVA had already been applied and had dried, the second later just peeled off in sheets and caused no end of problems with peeling and bubbling when we began to apply the emulsion. So by all means apply PVA but do it all in one go, before any of it dries.Posted 3 months agoghostlymachineMember
Heh. The house we lived in the UK needed a couple of rooms doing, basically to get rid of the badly done 70s artex.
The guy who came in to quote said he wouldn’t touch it as the whole lot looked like it was about to come down.
Furniture went out, sheets went down. Ladders came in.
Took about 40 seconds for the living room ceiling to end up on the floor.
Then two days to tidy up.
Kitchen didn’t take much longer. Except I had to be a bit more careful round the units……
The stuff was about an inch thick (three or four distinct layers) and looked like it was held on to the beams with 100 year old tacks.
(Checked for asbestos first, luckily, as the dust cloud that went out of the front door basically filled the entire garden and covered the road……… and most of the neighbours cars, and gardens.)Posted 3 months agoghostlymachineMember
How did you guys check for asbestos? Any recommendations?
I just rang the local council and they recommended a place that they used. Was fairly simple and painless, not hugely expensive from what i can remember.
Not compared to the cost of removing it if we’d found any! (or the cost of redoing the ceiling anyway.)Posted 3 months ago
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