Yeah, winter is range extender and P2 ramped up a bit on Eco and Trail

Summer no rangey and P1 … in theory.

Great – thanks Phil555 and Richardthird:)

Probably just a bit of trial and error, I’m not planning on sticking mine in turbo and making her keep up – she’d probably have something to say about that!

Got a starting point now based on making sure she puts the range extenbder on and put in P2 – will make sure she has the app later

Cheers

@yoshimi I’ve not experienced it yet but I’ve read that if you leave it charging too long e.g. overnight it can start to drain the battery down to about 80%

So if you’re going for max range keep an eye on the charger and switch it off as soon as it’s finished.

I have experienced the drain down when left on charge several times. Not always and there seems to be no logic to it. Now I always check state of charge on the garmin as soon as I pull the charging cable. More often than not it will be 100%

Anyone else had a floppy back end / play on the main linkage where it clamps onto the splined through shaft?

I’ve re-set the pre-load and clamped mine back up which seems to be OK for now (not ridden yet) but suspect it might fail again.

I’ve seen talk of loctite on it but it does concern me that getting it apart in the future could be an issue.

Hey Phil mine is currently in the menders awaiting a replacement linkage from Orbea . I’ll let you know when it’s sorted , my LBS thinks it’s the linkage that’s the issue.

Yep it seems to be a bit of a common thing. I’ll be interested to know what they do to fit the new linkage, e.g. if it gets glued on to the splines.

I took my linkage apart and the RHS arm just pulled off so it’s definitely where the issue is.

Once it’s come loose I wonder if it’s appear done damage and will never clamp back on properly.

I’m going to email the shop and see what they say.

I find rear end on mine very very flexy. Everything seems tight and been back to LBS for a check. It’s the only negative I’d put against it, end up feeling like have punctured sometimes when it’s the flex going round tighter corners. A lot of movement even pushing rear wheel by hand.

A lot of movement even pushing rear wheel by hand.

Mine got SIGNIFICANTLY worse yesterday, it might be worth you checking the linkage yourself depending on how much you trust your LBS. I couldn’t feel movement in the linkage until I undid the shock yoke from one side.

Had the same recently on mine. Just over 1k miles/ 10 months old so very little use really.

An annoying creak became a horrific rattle in a matter of miles. Stripped it all down and found the upper linkage/ linkage axle interface was sloppy on the non threaded side. Tired to reassemble it with some bearing retaining compound but even with the pinch bolt torqued to spec the axel pulled out by hand with minimal effort. No chance of setting the preload without it pulling the axle out of the linkage.

3 weeks in and I’m still waiting for a new axle from Orbea.

I had checked and reset the preload on the linkage several times.

As I understand it, it’s recommended to use Loctite 638 on the splines which I was hesitant of. The axle will need to come out when the bearing needs to be changed but I think I’ll use a small amount to try and preserve the preload.

Going forward, I’ll be checking the linkage more often.

Had the same recently on mine. Just over 1k miles/ 10 months old so very little use really.

I’m only at about 350km, had it since Mid January.

I’ve seen loctite 638 mentioned, depending what the shop say I think I’d go ahead with the loctite and deal with getting it apart at a later date. I’m happy (well not really happy, but willing) to try it as long as they agree it won’t affect my warranty.

Mine’s an internet order so not easy to drop off to them. In an ideal world being supplied a new linkage and a bottle of loctite would keep me happy, assuming it doesn’t destroy itself whilst I’m still away this week!

Its interesting that the “Blue Book” for the carbon Rise has the Loctite compound for the splines yet not showing as needed for the alloy Rise (when I checked last year) – they use the same components I think. My 1 year old H15 is getting a bit too regular with needing the spline assembling needing “reset” so maybe try the compound. I’m over 1000km on the bike.

I received a new axle from Orbea after a 4 week wait and on reassembling, I can’t see any real reason why permanently bonding the axle and left hand linkage arm would be a bad thing to be honest.

Other the obvious fact that if you ever needed to replace either part, you’d have to replace both.

With the axle and left hand linkage fitted to the frame, setting the preload was still pulling the axle out of the left hand linkage. I don’t know if this means my linkage arm is knackered or whether it’s just a crap design.

I didn’t have any 638 but had some ‘Granville’ retaining compound (from halfords, I think). I think this is equivalent to loctite 641. With a healthy amount of this applied to the splines, I could set the preload without the axle pulling out.

I might order some 638 and re do it. Still need to ride it to make sure it holds securely but trying to get the rear end back together after doing the bearings wasn’t working too well for me yesterday afternoon so I gave up before I broke something.

Interestingly for me, the ’23 carbon model has a completely different design where the axle is integrated with one side of the linkage.

It’s almost like they knew the pinch bolt design was a crap idea.

So a little update, I’ve had an afternoon tinkering with the bike, quite enjoyable outside in the sun but a bit frustrating that it needed doing after less than 6 months…

I’ve replaced the headset – bottom bearing with a generic one from a bike shops box and the top with Hope complete assembly. The original kept coming loose, I think because of the plastic preload washer and the random rubber seal (from an FSA BB30??)

And the main issue, the linkage. I had to tighten it a couple of times whilst I was away. Today after undoing the yoke and the seat stays the linkage arms had a bit of play, I could twist them relative to each other, I think it was the NDS that had started to come loose.

I gave everything a good clean up, including the bearings & regreased them, and “glued” the NDS arm on to the splines using Loctite 638. I then deliberated for ages whether to glue the other side as I am worried about getting it apart in the future. Decided to go for it, applied 638, pushed the arm on, set the preload & did the pinch bolt up. An initial wiggle of the back wheel and it feels much better, it’s still a flexy bike but the excessive play has gone.

I’d been in touch with the shop and told them I was happy to add the 638 but wanted to check it wouldn’t affect the warranty, they agreed that I could do it.

Also noticed chain had gone very slack in the smallest cog, tightened the B screw and all is well. Never had a B screw unwind, but hopefully that’s all it is and nothing more sinister?

Touched up a big chip at the bottom of the downtube.