also she’s happy
She does seem pretty happy and it's not even here yet! 🙂
I’m glad I opted for the M10. The suspension works really well, in particular the Grip2 fork is noticeably better than the (a few years old) Fit4 I have on my trail bike. Also the brakes are OK so far (about 10 rides in), so I don’t think I will be transferring my trusty Hope single pots to it.
Mrs5556 isn't very heavy so brakes should be good and better more tuneable suspension could well work better for a lighter rider. She's always struggled to get her current Rockshox Revelation working very well for her, on lower pressures it barely holds itself up but a bit more pressure in it and she doesn't get that far in to the travel.
The only problem she might have is the compression is a bit heavy on the 36 fork, I suspect optimised for 90kg with a bit of flight intended. Mrs has hers fully off for low and high speed.
The only problem she might have is the compression is a bit heavy on the 36 fork, I suspect optimised for 90kg with a bit of flight intended. Mrs has hers fully off for low and high speed.
a common issue on a lot of forks probably. Maybe lighter oil at first service time if that’s possible?
Any thoughts on 445mm chainstays? That's long for a half-fat ebike, particularly for the smaller sizes.
Fine.
Has anyone mulleted it by just putting a 27 wheel in the back? The FB group has a lot of info about changing the shock to increase travel to 160mm, but not much about keeping it at 140mm and slackening the bike.
Lower BB will be a bit of an issue but not sure it's too low and shorter cranks would partly mitigate that.
I suppose the ideal would be offset bushings to raise the back end again slightly but I don't think you can run them the "wrong" way around because they'll spin.
It's will be tried with a small wheel next week but just wondering about others experiences 🙂
I have tried mine with mullet in the rear. BB is low. Am running the forks at 160mm so raises BB from stock. M20 with fox34 at 140mm travel BB height is 336mm. Mine is full custom M20 if could of bought just a Frameset I would have.
Stuck with 29 wheels 140 rear 160 up front
Cheers. How did it ride? I’m assuming not as well as stock if you went back to the 29er 🤣
Her old bike is 331 and mulleting it would make it about 10mm lower than that apparently.
This is the M10 so 150mm Fox 36 on the front.
An M frameset & motor would be interesting thing 🙂
It rode ok in the woods, but any rocky locations, especially pedalling uphill over rocks too many pedal strikes. Am running a Manitou Mezzer on front & TTX coil on the rear, just prefer the 29er setup, it’s a very capable bike
The only problem she might have is the compression is a bit heavy on the 36 fork, I suspect optimised for 90kg with a bit of flight intended. Mrs has hers fully off for low and high speed.
Fox aren't as bad as they used to be in this respect, but still pretty heavily damped. I'm 92kg, stock damping is too much for my sensitive wrists! 😂 Mine are getting a custom tune and 3W oil in the new year @ Dirtworks in Malvern (exactly the same as he did to my previous 2019 GRIP2 36's and it transformed them)...
Any thoughts on 445mm chainstays? That’s long for a half-fat ebike, particularly for the smaller sizes.
People obsessed over chainstay lengths for a while when 29ers came out when lengths were up over 450mm typically. Then they got down under 430mm at times, and people realised the pros of super short chainstays were outweighed by the cons.
Besides... If they were much shorter, there would be no room for a 29er rear tyre with the motor in there too!
It's fine... Absolute non issue... In fact I prefer 440-445ish stays on a full sus now I've got used to them again, coming back up from around 430mm. But then good bike geometry is all about balance... Pointless making the front centre really long and then fitting super short chainstays, the bike will only be good for pointing and squirting!
An M frameset & motor would be interesting thing 🙂
For sure... But when I bought my M10, deals were being done already, the price I paid, once I'd sold off everything I didn't want (groupset, wheels, brakes, tyres, bar/stem, dropper, saddle, tyres), I was in under £5k for the frame with Fox 36 Factory Fork, Float X2 factory shock etc. too which I didn't think too bad at all really... Not when you consider there's the motor, battery and everything in that too, along with a £1200 rrp fork. An S-Works Levo frame and similar fork would run you to about £8k, put it that way!
It rode ok in the woods, but any rocky locations, especially pedalling uphill over rocks too many pedal strikes. Am running a Manitou Mezzer on front & TTX coil on the rear, just prefer the 29er setup, it’s a very capable bike
Ta. An experiment will be conducted 🙂
160mm cranks here with a Mezzer @ 150 and pedal strikes are annoyingly frequent on chunky stuff. I'd like the BB to be a bit higher and certainly wouldn't want it any lower.
My bike (Bird Aether 7) is 325 BB height with 170 cranks and I get on fine with that. Get the occasional pedal strike but have mostly adjusted to it and it doesn’t bother me. My last bike was also reasonably low so I guess it’s what you get used to.
Looking at the new 2023 models I am struggling to see beyond the H10. It comes with the same EP8 motor as the M models, and I assume benefits from the new lighter battery too.
Its either wait a bit until I can afford an H10 or get an 2022 M10 in the sales with the smaller battery, Overall I imagine there will be nothing brtween them weight wise?
Funky Dunc
I've got the H15 , you'd be hard pressed to tell it's alloy and there are some offers on them now . Surge bikes are one company but unless they are local to you I'd always buy as local as you can with any E Bike.
Its either wait a bit until I can afford an H10 or get an 2022 M10 in the sales with the smaller battery, Overall I imagine there will be nothing brtween them weight wise?
About 2kg for the H10 over an M10. part of it is the bigger battery, part of it is the extra frame weight.
I’ve come from a Focus Jam2 with 378wh battery to an M20 with 320wh. I’m getting more range and reckon 4000feet ascent vs 3000 at best from the Jam2.
Glad I opted for the m20 as I was in two minds. I’d struggle to think of many occasions when I’d need a bigger battery/more range. But so glad to not be carrying an extra few kg weight when don’t need to.
To my mind the rise is all about lighter weight, the H models and the extra couple of kg they carry removes some of the attraction to me. Weight becomes much closer to the competition.
I’ll find out soon how heavy the H is vs the M, I was originally in this thread because my wife got herself an M10.
I wasn’t expecting her to buy me an H30 for Christmas and told to choose a new fork & brakes 😁 Should be here in the next 3 weeks, I’m quite excited.
My M10 is due to arrive on Thursday. New brakes and AXS kit are already here and waiting to be fitted. Rather excited!
About 2kg for the H10 over an M10. part of it is the bigger battery, part of it is the extra frame weight.
sorry I’m full of cold and confusing myself !
If you get a 2023 M10 or H10 with big battery there has got to be not much in it at all in terms of weight. The carbon must only 500g or so lighter ?
And then Orbea is saying the 2023 batteries are lighter than 2022 so the gap in weight between 2023 must be closer than comparing 2022 models
I thought you comparing reduced price 2022 m series with 2023 H series. The 2023 motor is apparently 100g heavier than 2022, and the battery and frame differences would make a decent difference. If you’re comparing 2023 models then you’re probably about correct if both running big battery.
I've been reading a bit about E13 cranks destroying axles or somethiong and people replacing them with 'cheap' Shimano ones
Anyone had experience of this and what cranks are people replacing them with?
Cheers
Replaced mine with XTR Shimano cranks 165mm
yoshimi I decided to swap mine out before igot the bike , shop just put Shimano Deore on perfectly fine for me . I didn't fancy getting caught in the Shimano v E13 squabble 🙄
Shimano 165mm cranks on my H30.
Regarding weight: The new batteries are not going to be much/any lighter on a pro-rata basis. I understand that the 2022 "H" batteries were the newer tech anyway. That would mean that a 2023 "M" with the 540wh battery would only be slightly lighter than the equivalently spec'd "H" owing to its carbon frame.
On a £ per £ basis, I'd have the higher spec'd "H".
If someone wanted to go as light as possible, then it's "M" with the smaller battery as the starting point.
So yeah, I’m now a member of the Rise owners club 🙂
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Best colour 😉👍
Best colour 😉👍
Looks better with a bit of mud on it 🙂
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So yes I'm a convert to the e-bike. Been out on it a few times now including a couple of days at Golfie. A couple of weeks ago I did 4 runs to the top on my Aether chasing my wife and our friend on their Rises - I was absolutely broken afterwards.
Sunday I did 6 to the top and a couple of short runs up, legs were fine, upper body was broken this time. Great fun but without the pain in between and I still feel like I worked pretty hard so not the entirely lazy option some make it out to be.
I still feel a bit self conscious overtaking people on the climbs and haven't quite plucked up the courage to shout "E-bike coming through!" 😂
Now the bike:
I've ridden it in profile 1 and 2. 1 is great and I would probably keep it in that most of the time, except when I'm chasing someone else who is using profile 2 - then it's a struggle to keep up.
Battery life saw 36km and 1800m without trying to conserve it using a mix of mostly trail & boost - pretty happy with that. I went flat near the top of my final climb.
Lyrik is working well, I've barely touched it since initial set up and it feels good.
Rear Fox shock has felt too easy to bottom out so will try a token / spacer (need to look in to what they actually use?) to improve it ramping up. May change it in the future.
The Code brakes are needed, admittedly I didn't ride it with the original Deores but I can't imagine they'd be up to the job.
150mm dropper wasn't long enough for me, I stole the 200 Brand X ascend from my Aether which works perfectly. Replacement for the Aether is here.
I'm going to have to keep an eye on the gap between the chainstay bridge and the bottom of the seat tube, there's not much clearance and it was full of mud and small stones - could see there being an issue with getting something wedged in there and denting / cracking the frame. Might even get a mud guard.
I've been riding it with a 27.5" wheel in the back, yes the BB is a bit low but it's manageable and I prefer the way it handles on the steeper scary stuff. I've switched the rear wheel a couple of times and it feels more cumbersome on the 29 and the I prefer the slacker HA. Initially it felt BIG but after the first couple of descents on it I've got used to it, it does take a bit more effort to get it to turn and still not quite as confident on it as the Aether. Doesn't feel heavy coming down but does feel like it takes a bit more to stop it, might be due to the smaller rotors. Definitely climbs better with the 29 but it's a trade off I'm happy with.
I've got a mullet set of Nukeproof Horizon V2 wheels and some 203mm rotors to go on, then I'll stop playing about with it and keep riding.
Overall a thumbs up from me.
Well after owning it since before Xmas, tomorrow will be the misses first ride out on it - a package turned up today and looks like shes bought some Deore XT 165mm cranks...wonder what I'll be doing tonight
Profile 1 & 2...??? I've not looked at her bike much as wanted her to understand it all herself. So, if I'm on a full fat Levo, any ideas on matching our power? Bearing in mind I'm 90kg and shes 60kg. Or not worry abour it when I ride with the Wednesday crew and I'm the only one on E, I just leave it in Eco and as they're all animals it seems to work just fine.
Also, worth strapping her range extender on..20mile 4000ft kind of day?
bought some Deore XT 165mm cranks
I might put them on mine eventually or maybe even try some 160s.
Profile 1 & 2…???
There's 2 profiles for power set up, if she's got the M without a screen then she'll need the Shimano E-Tube (Project?) app, with the screen she can change profiles on there by holding down the little button on the screen, then going to Assistance Customisation or similar and switch between the 2. Profile 1 is default, 2 is more powerful but obviously uses more battery. Eco / Trail / Boost is also configurable in each profile but I haven't played that much yet.
Set it in Profile 2 and use the extender if she's going to be chasing you, especially if she's got the smaller battery in the M. I find 1 is plenty if I'm not trying to keep up with someone, I could just about keep up using P.1 Trail vs the wife on P.2 Boost but it wasn't much fun for long!
Yeah, winter is range extender and P2 ramped up a bit on Eco and Trail
Summer no rangey and P1 ... in theory.
Great - thanks Phil555 and Richardthird:)
Probably just a bit of trial and error, I'm not planning on sticking mine in turbo and making her keep up - she'd probably have something to say about that!
Got a starting point now based on making sure she puts the range extenbder on and put in P2 - will make sure she has the app later
Cheers
@yoshimi I’ve not experienced it yet but I’ve read that if you leave it charging too long e.g. overnight it can start to drain the battery down to about 80%
So if you’re going for max range keep an eye on the charger and switch it off as soon as it’s finished.
I have experienced the drain down when left on charge several times. Not always and there seems to be no logic to it. Now I always check state of charge on the garmin as soon as I pull the charging cable. More often than not it will be 100%
Anyone else had a floppy back end / play on the main linkage where it clamps onto the splined through shaft?
I’ve re-set the pre-load and clamped mine back up which seems to be OK for now (not ridden yet) but suspect it might fail again.
I’ve seen talk of loctite on it but it does concern me that getting it apart in the future could be an issue.
Hey Phil mine is currently in the menders awaiting a replacement linkage from Orbea . I'll let you know when it's sorted , my LBS thinks it's the linkage that's the issue.
Yep it seems to be a bit of a common thing. I’ll be interested to know what they do to fit the new linkage, e.g. if it gets glued on to the splines.
I took my linkage apart and the RHS arm just pulled off so it’s definitely where the issue is.
Once it’s come loose I wonder if it’s appear done damage and will never clamp back on properly.
I’m going to email the shop and see what they say.
I find rear end on mine very very flexy. Everything seems tight and been back to LBS for a check. It’s the only negative I’d put against it, end up feeling like have punctured sometimes when it’s the flex going round tighter corners. A lot of movement even pushing rear wheel by hand.
A lot of movement even pushing rear wheel by hand.
Mine got SIGNIFICANTLY worse yesterday, it might be worth you checking the linkage yourself depending on how much you trust your LBS. I couldn’t feel movement in the linkage until I undid the shock yoke from one side.
Had the same recently on mine. Just over 1k miles/ 10 months old so very little use really.
An annoying creak became a horrific rattle in a matter of miles. Stripped it all down and found the upper linkage/ linkage axle interface was sloppy on the non threaded side. Tired to reassemble it with some bearing retaining compound but even with the pinch bolt torqued to spec the axel pulled out by hand with minimal effort. No chance of setting the preload without it pulling the axle out of the linkage.
3 weeks in and I'm still waiting for a new axle from Orbea.
I had checked and reset the preload on the linkage several times.
As I understand it, it's recommended to use Loctite 638 on the splines which I was hesitant of. The axle will need to come out when the bearing needs to be changed but I think I'll use a small amount to try and preserve the preload.
Going forward, I'll be checking the linkage more often.
Had the same recently on mine. Just over 1k miles/ 10 months old so very little use really.
I’m only at about 350km, had it since Mid January.
I’ve seen loctite 638 mentioned, depending what the shop say I think I’d go ahead with the loctite and deal with getting it apart at a later date. I’m happy (well not really happy, but willing) to try it as long as they agree it won’t affect my warranty.
Mine’s an internet order so not easy to drop off to them. In an ideal world being supplied a new linkage and a bottle of loctite would keep me happy, assuming it doesn’t destroy itself whilst I’m still away this week!
Its interesting that the "Blue Book" for the carbon Rise has the Loctite compound for the splines yet not showing as needed for the alloy Rise (when I checked last year) - they use the same components I think. My 1 year old H15 is getting a bit too regular with needing the spline assembling needing "reset" so maybe try the compound. I'm over 1000km on the bike.
I received a new axle from Orbea after a 4 week wait and on reassembling, I can't see any real reason why permanently bonding the axle and left hand linkage arm would be a bad thing to be honest.
Other the obvious fact that if you ever needed to replace either part, you'd have to replace both.
With the axle and left hand linkage fitted to the frame, setting the preload was still pulling the axle out of the left hand linkage. I don't know if this means my linkage arm is knackered or whether it's just a crap design.
I didn't have any 638 but had some 'Granville' retaining compound (from halfords, I think). I think this is equivalent to loctite 641. With a healthy amount of this applied to the splines, I could set the preload without the axle pulling out.
I might order some 638 and re do it. Still need to ride it to make sure it holds securely but trying to get the rear end back together after doing the bearings wasn't working too well for me yesterday afternoon so I gave up before I broke something.
Interestingly for me, the '23 carbon model has a completely different design where the axle is integrated with one side of the linkage.
It's almost like they knew the pinch bolt design was a crap idea.
So a little update, I’ve had an afternoon tinkering with the bike, quite enjoyable outside in the sun but a bit frustrating that it needed doing after less than 6 months…
I’ve replaced the headset - bottom bearing with a generic one from a bike shops box and the top with Hope complete assembly. The original kept coming loose, I think because of the plastic preload washer and the random rubber seal (from an FSA BB30??)
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And the main issue, the linkage. I had to tighten it a couple of times whilst I was away. Today after undoing the yoke and the seat stays the linkage arms had a bit of play, I could twist them relative to each other, I think it was the NDS that had started to come loose.
I gave everything a good clean up, including the bearings & regreased them, and “glued” the NDS arm on to the splines using Loctite 638. I then deliberated for ages whether to glue the other side as I am worried about getting it apart in the future. Decided to go for it, applied 638, pushed the arm on, set the preload & did the pinch bolt up. An initial wiggle of the back wheel and it feels much better, it’s still a flexy bike but the excessive play has gone.
I’d been in touch with the shop and told them I was happy to add the 638 but wanted to check it wouldn’t affect the warranty, they agreed that I could do it.
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Also noticed chain had gone very slack in the smallest cog, tightened the B screw and all is well. Never had a B screw unwind, but hopefully that’s all it is and nothing more sinister?
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Touched up a big chip at the bottom of the downtube.
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Well i know this is an old post but my real world experience is turning into why the **** did i get this bike. bike is 14mths old but due to commitments has just under 400mls on it. <br /><br />
1) shimano xt mech shipped with no grease. Seized after 2 rides and never shifted properly again. Replaced with SRAM gx and now flawless
2) Rear axle snapped. warranty
3) 1 full set of frame bearings and 2 sets of linkage bearings due to the ominous creak. “Consumable so no warranty”
4) Battery wont charge to 100% and charger doesn't turn off at 100% charge. Keeps going and discharges to 85% ish. Warranty open for new charger
5) brakes are SERIOUSLY inadequate. Swapped for decent 4 pots.
6) fox fork shipped with way too much grease so popped and wheezed and clicked from day 1. Had to get it serviced to get it working properly.
7) fox bushes wore out at 250mls and warrantied.
8) Charger currently showing red light trying to charge it and bike wont switch on. Going in for more warranty.
9) power switch regularly sticks down so you cant turn it off without some gentle persuasion with a pick to remove mud etc.
its an utterly shocking bike. Never had something so unreliable. Got to the point I dread opening the garage door cos who knows what I’ll find wrong with it!
